Thread: Ply vs mdf vs melamine for shop cabinets?

Love your work Derek

Originally Posted by rogerwilco

+1 for using a supplier who can cut your panels for you. I don’t like working with sheets, but when I do, I usually get some of the cutting done by the supplier. It isn’t always possible (or advisable) to have every part cut to final size.

Hey, Roger, I am going to agree and disagree with you in the same sentence.

Whenever I do something in melamine, I give a cutting list to a local joiner and he supplies, cuts and edge bands it - every single piece. He cuts to an accuracy of 0.1 mm, his edge banding is quite robust and far better than the iron-on crap I can do, and his prices always beat Bunnings whole sheet price. High moisture resistant (HMR) melamine is the same price as the ordinary stuff, it has a slightly greenish core but otherwise identical properties - there is no logical reason to ever use the non-HMR version.

I do like the look of Derek's drawers, but have never used those panels like that, so no comment. Once used laminated MDF - looked good, but so extremely heavy - never again.

This is the way that I assemble melamine carcases. I make the back out of 16 mm melamine, and it becomes a permanent form around which the carcase is assembled; squareness guaranteed.

Cabinet Carcase.jpg

The back is inset and all parts are assembled around it,
Use 50 mm chipboard screws in predrilled holes on ~200 mm centres, never closer than 50 mm to an edge of sheet,
All exposed edges are edge banded, jointed edges are not,
End piece first, aligned to edge of back,
Then sequentially around perimeter adding sides,
Existing components align the next.

I thought the solid back was an extravagance at first, but everything is so much faster and mistakes are minimised - it is actually cheaper than 3 mm MDF, and much nicer.

Unusually, I also both glue and screw the joints. The glue does not strengthen the joint, but it does make it liquid proof and guards it against future spills and moisture.

Originally Posted by derekcohen

Check your local Bunnings for laminated panels.

SNIP

Derek

Now who'd have thought, material from bunnings could be turned into something nice. I like it. The colour, proportions and handles are perfect.

Thanks, but to be clear, the Merbau case is actually this colour ...



Here are the panels ...



Later it was stained to look like Jarrah ...




Real Jarrah was used for the drawer fronts. Here they are before an oil finish (which would darken the wood) ...




But the point is, the Merbau is a whole lot better than building in ply or MDF.

I used it also to build a pair of bedside tables for my son ...



These broke down ..



... and could be packaged up (legs inside the drawers) and posted to my son in Canberra ...



Regards from Perth

Derek

Originally Posted by derekcohen

Bunnings Panels.jpg Here are the panels ...

But the point is, the Merbau is a whole lot better than building in ply or MDF. ...

And the prices are very competitive. Thanks, Derek. Once again, you have expanded my horizons.

I have been deliberately avoiding that product because of a bad experience over 20 years ago. Bought an inexpensive "solid wood" panel, put it on the saw bench, and immediately it splinterred and I smelt the glue of chipboard. Stupid me had erroneously bought a laminated panel ...... The clues were in the marketing hype and weight, but I missed them - sort of ... "You won't believe that this is not real wood".

Agree with Derek - I've used the Bunnings laminated beech to make a very pleasing queen sized bed, and have my eyes on it for some bench tops.

Personally, having used it before, I would avoid MDF for shop cabinets: it doesn't like workshop chemicals, and the inevitable knocks and dings. It also hates water, and any tendency to flooding in the workshop will be upsetting. By the tiime you've solid wood edged it, sealed it, and all the rest, the more expensive but more robust plywood or Melamine are a much better option, IMHO.