Thread: Needing some project advice

I was thinking if a Slot cutting router bit but it's minimum size is 1.6mm so that's not an answer.
If you have controlled a dremel to cut 20mm across, what about a dremel rip saw blade?

https://www.gettoolsdirect.com.au/dr...FQGbvAod1T0Cjw

Thanks Lappa, you're definitely on the right track, but that blade could only cut the groove 7mm deep when I need it to be at least double that.

Thanks for the suggestion though, a different attachment hadn't crossed my mind

I'm thinking your Dremel and jig plus a suitable cutting / cooling medium -- compressed air is a possibility -- and a different cutter
I found this
Rotary Tool:
perfect for smaller shaping and etching tasks. It's not very useful for cutting most plastics though.
To avoid excessive melting or blade sticking it's best to use high-speed cutting bits.
Abrasive bits will not work properly with most plastic materials.



left field
can the part be made in two pieces?
rout a 1 mm deep dado in a piece 2 mm thick then glue a 1 mm cover on

Hi Ian,

I could find the "thin cut" grinding disc as the only suitable option for a dremel blade. If you have another suggestion for a suitable teethed-bit im open to any suggestions

I am also left a bit scarred (literally) from the dremel test as molten plastic flung all over my arms... fun times. Think this was due to the bit being an "abrasive" grinding one as mentioned in your comment, just not sure what other options there are.

I cant do it in two parts since its a laminated panel (I didn't include that information so some people weren't confused) attached is a photodibond.png

Originally Posted by EdTimber

Thanks Lappa, you're definitely on the right track, but that blade could only cut the groove 7mm deep when I need it to be at least double that.

Thanks for the suggestion though, a different attachment hadn't crossed my mind

The grinding wheels are 1 1/2" and the saw blade is 1 1/4" but I suppose the mounting mandrel may be a different diam limiting the cutting depth?
How about these?

FOR Dremel Cutoff Circular SAW HSS Rotary Blades Tool Cutting Discs Mandrel 6pcs | eBay

Hi Lappa,

Great work, I have found an aussie based supplier and already ordered them. I Didn't think about using any non-dremel branded bits. Thanks a million I think this might just work!

Originally Posted by EdTimber

I am also left a bit scarred (literally) from the dremel test as molten plastic flung all over my arms... fun times. Think this was due to the bit being an "abrasive" grinding one as mentioned in your comment, just not sure what other options there are.

I cant do it in two parts since its a laminated panel (I didn't include that information so some people weren't confused) attached is a photodibond.png

OH

At a guess, that material is probably related to the architectural panels that the Melbourne Fire Brigade are concerned about.
Non-compliant cladding fuelled Melbourne apartment tower fire, MFB finds | Architecture And Design
This is the hidden potential killer in Australian buildings - 27/05/2015


lastly, is there a risk that once the 15 to 20 mm deep channel is cut, the surface layer will collapse into the void?

Thanks for the heads up Ian but it's not for buildings, so I think im pretty safe from any law suits

Don't think so, i reckon the problem i was having was with the dremel bit being abrasive all over (a tiny angle grinding disc) which was creating more heat and melting it. Hoping this new dremel saw blade wont have that effect.

I will let everybody know the outcome of the blades! Until then I welcome any more suggestions as back-up!

You can also run those blades in a drill press, which I do. Nice and stable.

I have some which I thinned down to 0.6 mm using wet and dry to make slots for veneers.

I think Ian's idea of using compressed air for cooling is not to be overlooked.

Cheers
Arron

The material you're using is the thinnest of the 'Alucobond' panels, mainly used for signs. This material is used extensively, thicker than 3mm, in architectural situations. It's not a fire risk. Anybody who ever gets the chance to grab some should take advantage, fabulous stuff.

Cheers,
David

Hey Arron thats a great idea, my dremel jig wouldn't pass any sort of safety test so putting it in the drill press is also a much safer and accurate way to go about it. thanks for the advice. In regards to the thickness though, the 0.8mm blades should be fine as long they don't move around too much - again, this could probably be reduced in the drill press.

And David, I am also a huge fan of the alucobond, im lucky enough to get offcuts from my sister who's a signmaker. The stuff is great, so strong and comes in a bunch of different colours. I'm making a modern shelving unit out of it which will test the strength. Good stuff.