Thread: What does the 'Sharpening Steel' do?

I always thought the steel was a file and these days diamond impregnated (very fine of course....) perhaps not according to your discusison... my steel is like a very fine file... I try not to use it too much so the blades dont get worn down, a few scrapes every few weeks seems ok for our domestic use..

A steel is a metal rod attached to a handle with a small hand guard. It is used to complete the knife sharpening process and maintain a sharp cutting edge. This step is necessary to straighten the knife edge by lining up the little teeth that are not readily visible. Frequent steeling will keep the knife edge straight and sharp. The mirror smooth steel for razor sharp edges is the best suited for meat knives. The ideal length of the steel is 10-12 inches.
The steel should be held firmly in the left hand (if right-handed) or right hand (if left-handed) almost diagonal to the body but with a slight upward tilt. This permits the free movement of the knife across the steel without drawing it too close to the supporting hand. The heel of the blade should be placed against the near side of the tip of the steel at a 5-10 degree angle, with a sweep of the blade down along the steel toward the left hand during a quick, swinging motion of the right wrist and forearm. The entire blade should pass lightly over the steel. The knife should be returned to a position on the opposite side of the steel with the same motion repeated. A double stroke procedure can be used which permits the knife to contact the steel on both the downward and return strokes. A dozen strokes of the knife are usually sufficient to return the edge on a knife that is not very dull. Most workmen continuously steel the knife (once every few minutes) while work is being performed. To test the knife for sharpness and smoothness of edge, run the edge of the blade lightly over the flat of the thumb nail. If the knife slides easily, it lacks the proper sharpness. A sharp edge will dig into the nail and a rough or wire edge will rasp the nail. Another method for testing sharpness involves moving the ball of the thumb lightly over the blade edge, while the amateur usually tests the knife by shaving the hair of the forearm.

Stolen from another source.
My own steel is as described above in size but has a very fine ribbing along the length of the steel, I use it on a regular basis to keep a mean edge on my Dick (and we are not going orange for that!)

(F H Dick make beautiful carbon steel knives, I have several for the kitchen and they hold their edge for quite some time, SWMBO doesn't like them because they are 'too sharp').

Originally Posted by terrygoss

What does the Sharpening 'Steel' actually do when sharpening a knife?
Watch a butcher in action and you see him repeatedly stroking the knife with a steel - sometimes every half minute or thereabouts.
What does it actually do to the edge? I have my own views on this but I have not been able to find anyone (butchers included) who can explain what it actually does. The answer is usually something like 'It keeps the knife sharp' mostly accompanied by an expression that indicates their attitude re my obvious stupidity in asking the question.
For a long time I mistakingly thought the 'steel' was a type of straight toothed file and used it vigorously accordingly, trying to remove metal, but this is a mistake. I tweaked to this when I first saw a ceramic 'steel'.
I want to know what actually happens to the metal at the edge because it obviously works in restoring the sharpness of the edge.
As I said, I have devised my own views about this but I don't want to lead the discussion in the wrong direction.
What has this got to do with woodwork?
If you have been following my other thread regarding tool sharpening (my e-book article) you will know that I have an interest in tool sharpening. Perhaps there is something in the butchers' approach that is useful to a woodworker.

Terry, the "steel" you see a butcher using is designed to "stand" the mico feathered edge back-up. When sharpened on a water/oil stone the edge is not as keen as it could be, if you could look at the edge under a microscope you would see a very jagged edge, the edge is not in it's idea condition, so when "stroked" on the "steel" it removes all of the excess fine feather and lines up all of the new good feather.

As the user makes his/her cuts the edge folds and does not cut as good, so a few strokes on the "steel" and it sets them upright again. This is good for a while but as this is continued metal fatigue sets in and the feather breaks off and no matter how many times you use the "steel" it will not replace the edge, so then it's back to the stone.

The "steel" looks very smooth, in actual fact it is a very fine file, unlike a common file it does not have its teeth in a cross pattern, but has them running the length of the "steel" side by side. Hope this helps you understand the use of a "steel".

Iain

Thanks you.

As usual I've been buggering up the process. I've got a full set of 'Global' kitchen knives, which I treasure.

I've always moved the steel (ceramic) not the knife, grasping the steel in my right (dominate) hand.

I'll now reform and do it as you describe. Out of interest, where did you learn this? Sounds like maybe Butchering 101?

Originally Posted by Bodgy

Out of interest, where did you learn this? Sounds like maybe Butchering 101?

My dear late Mum was a chef, taught me a lot about sharpening and other little kitchen niceties
Nothing like a good sharp knife, although SWMBO uses those god awful serrated edge crappy things which ruin evrything, of course the kitchen/butchering rules of steeling do not apply to WW as it is not practical to steel a small blade, in fact it would be near on impossible, however, there is a round steel that turners use to but a burr on a scraper which is in some ways probably similar.

One further question, if I may:

My ceramic steel has two sections, one rough and one smooth. These are obvious, and can easily be seen as either large ridges or small, finer ridges running the length of the implement.

I use the rough then the smooth, but it seems I should also sharpen on a stone, occasionally? Or does the rough section act as a honing device?

I'm 62 and still using the steel my mother had when she owned a butcher shop. It would have to be at least 75 years old and smooth as a babys bum, a few of the correct strokes and hey presto sharp edge restored. Of course I am an old fuddy duddy and only use carbon steel knives, both traditional and Japanese type.

It sounds like the oval steel which I have never used but I believe that one side is for a 'fast primary' finish and then fine tuned with the other.
Even though you use a steel the knife will still become dull and need sharpening, for this I use a Tormek type grinder, the steel maintains an edge, not create, and reduces the number of times you return to the wheel for a sharpen.
Also beware of some commercial sharpeners who use a coarse grit belt sander and succeed in buggering up your knife.
Their technique is a bit like my axe on the grinder, with about as much finess

I do it asre about. I hold the steel in my left hand as described but I start with the heel of the blade at the base near my left hand and draw it up along the steel towards the tip. Feels safer to me than drawing it down towards my hand. Saw a chef do it on TV once and seemed like a good idea to me. I'm quite quick with it now.

Oh ye of little faith, thats what the hilt is for, but I do take your point and do not move as fast as the butchers do, so far so good...............

I think the other replies have summed it up. The steel is designed to hone an already sharp edge. It is not designed to sharpen a blade. Whatever the mechanics of it are (stabnding the micro edge back up, lining up the microscopic teeth, whatever), I don't know, but I do know that if you try and sharpen a knife with it you'll wreck both the knife edge and the steel, and probably wear out your arm doing it.

I have a set of Arcos knifes in my kitchen which I hone up with the steel every time I use them. I have yet to have them sharpened but I would think that provided I am using the steel correctly, a six monthly sharpen professionally would be about right for the amount of cooking I do. Mine are not the cheapest nor the most expensive. The better the knives, the less you have to sharpen, provided you are using the steel regularly and correctly.

And to not deviate too far from the spirit of the forum. I use cutting boards made of wood. Not glass or cheap plastic. And therein lies a whole new thread if you're game enough. (Been done before I think actually)

Iain you describe perfectly how my dad taught me to use a steel , have always used a round one but this year my daughters bought me a new oval steel which is better and quicker.
I use mundial knives and always give them a couple of strokes before putting them away so that the knife is ready to use

I was going to astound you with my vast knowledge of the Steel and its use, but as I read the preceding post, all I can add is Yup! Thats it for me. Except for "Stroke the steel away from you,this prevents blood stains... "

Originally Posted by Hickory

"Stroke the steel away from you,this prevents blood stains... "

To complete the quote "... which make a mess and rust the blade."