Thread: Slats for Queen size bed

I've got them through Hafele. Not sure if you need to be an acct holder or not however
Daz

I always make them out of pine 90x45.

As long as you use structurally sound timber 19mm thick pine is adequate.

(Give each slat a good belt on the ground on its flat, if it cracks or breaks its not sound)

Run a centre "trimmer" of say 42 x 35 lengthways under the slats to remove bows (it also ties the slats together thus increasing strength)

I"ve always bought them from the local op shops. They've usually got loads hanging around for $10 or $20.

I used 100 x 25 Tassie Oak for my QS bed. Bought it sawn and it would have finished at about 90 x 21

ian

Thanks for the replies. I may end up using what I have around here which is hardwood. Is there any advantage in using the purchased laminated slats? Like I'm talking quality wise for the bed, does the extra spring in them make them any better?

Donna

The only advantage is if you intend to have "sprung" slats - sorry there must be a technical term for that system, but I don't know it.

I'm talking about having the slats bowed upwards (convex) so your weight brings them down to level as opposed to having them concaved by your weight.

Hey Donna
Page 385 of the Hafele catttledog you will find both 764x53x8mm ($1.78+)and 1524x100x12mm. If you use the shorter ones obviously you will need 2 sets and a support down the centre. They also sell a range of pockets (next page) to hold them in place. Your call but I think the strip of pockets are a bit too far apart for a Futon but OK for an innerspring. Because of the convex shape, they are actually perfect for a Futon mattress as they provide a bit of flex. (bounce)
I usually use 2 sets of 75x25 clear sawn hoop pine from Charlie Henry Timbers in Bris and machine it down to about 70x21 and use a centre support or full width for the more traditional futon base (supports are closer to the centre). Haven't had to replace a broken slat on any of my beds ever.
Daz

I used 75x19mm Pine for our Kingsize bed 7 yrs ago, and it is still hokding strong, have also moved house 8 times during that period, and taken the bed apart and put it back together again.

there is a video on youtube of a cabinet maker making a bed, and what he does is rout a groove in the underside of his slats, and glues in a piece to create a T shaped slat, which he says never fails. the depth of that piece would probably determine the spring. its called "in the workshop"

I made mine out of 90x45 pine. I replaced them after reading the brochure from the mattress manufacturer which told you about spacing. A fair few of today's beds have the slats too far apart which means the springs were not properly supported.

The original ones had fabric which held them together. I put dowels either side of every slat which keeps them in position and still allows you to disassemble the bed. It made a big improvement, as the originals were quite flimsy.

Cheers,

Tom

I'm going to try a couple of the Ikea bed slat units for the queen sized bed presently under construction. The one's I am planning to use are the SULTAN LILLÅKER at $100 each. This is planning of course not actually done so I can't be sure how it will turn out.

I just make bed slats from 19mm CD grade construction ply. Nice give and almost bounce proof...even under heavy loads.