Thread: Thin Kerf TS blades

well I haven't picked up one of them thin kerf jobs yet, but it seems most people are at least satisfied with the results.
I'll definately use some sort of safety device, if not a custom made splitter, then maybe a fingerboard clamped over the top.

As always, great input

Originally Posted by weisyboy

i have one on my TS but i have the riving knife removed cos it was to thick. no reason it cant be sanded/ground down to the right thickness thow.

i have a 8" saw with a fairly small motor and i use it for resawing slabs the motor would stall befor lifting a 50kg slab up and throwing it back at me.


i hope

if the motor is small enough the slab will prolly be moving slow enough for you to dodge outa the way right but a 1 kg slice will be moving pretty quick

Originally Posted by fatty500

Hey fellas,
Just wondering what's the deal with TK blades. What are people's experiences with these. I've read that they tend to overheat quickly and deflect, spoiling the accuracy and any timber saving advantage. Has anyone tried using blade stabilizers to stop this. Compared with the standard 2.8mm/3.2mm kerf, the thinner blade would yield a few more laminates, so at the moment, it seems an attractive option.
I was thinking of getting the CMT rip blade with 1.7mm kerf. Has anyone tried this one.
Also, when using a thin kerf blade, how quickly can I overheat the blade.

Thanks,
Fatty

Hi Fatty

I m a carpenter and i hate thin kerf blades. They tend to wonder a alot. I would rather pay more for a thicker blade than buy a thinkerf blade.
JMAC