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7th November 2010, 09:14 PM #1
Using threaded reo in place of a cramp
I'm currently building a cabinet that is longer than my biggest sash cramp. Here is a picture of the first dry fit of most of the main carcase elements. Getting to this stage has confirmed little more than that the glue up is going to be a nightmare. The best way I can see of drawing it all together is to get some thread reo rod and use that passing through framing timber to draw the parts together. At about $6 a 2.4 metre length this seems a reasonable solution.
HOWEVER.... I can't complete the dry fit as is without the cramps and I'm pretty sure if I pull it all together at the moment I'll have difficulty taking it apart without damage. I want to do a full dry fit because I'm worried that given the number of pieces in the frame there will be at least one joint that is going to need adjustment to make everything align square and I want to find out before I start applying glue.
I think I could probably use the reo approach to assist in dismantling the dry fit by moving the framing timbers to inside the frame and the threaded rods to spread the joints, but I'm a bit worried there may be too much flex in the rods and they will bend in compression rather than spreading the frame.
Has anyone used threaded reo in this way and can say if it works as well at spreading joints as drawing them together? Is there another approach I should be considering?
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7th November 2010, 09:22 PM #2China
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If the budget dosent support longer sash cramps why not buy some pipe cramp sets and you can go as long as you want
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7th November 2010, 09:38 PM #3
Hi China,
Threaded reo looks cheaper than pipe clamps and the associated pipe. I think I've also seen threads saying that getting ahold of pipe suitable for use with the clamps these days is becoming an issue.
I'm kicking myself that I didn't snag a couple of discounted Record clamp heads I saw at Bunnings a couple of months ago when they were downsizing the hand tools department. Those heads attached to timber beams.
p.s The Habco jointer had to go, I got a good deal on a broken Hafco that is now working much better than the old one ever would. However getting the Habco up and running was worth the learning experience and I used that knowledge to fix up the Hafco much more quickly.
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7th November 2010, 10:48 PM #4
Reo is often used as clamps in concrete, known as she-bolts, to hold the formwork in place. There are special ends you use, but cost a bit, or you can use welded ends and wedges.
What length do you need Fuzzie? I have 4 record clamps on hardwood timber 3m long that I have used to clamp a 2.7m entertainment unit below.
You are welcome to come around and borrow them if they are long enough for you.
CheersNeil____________________________________________Every day presents an opportunity to learn something new
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8th November 2010, 07:14 AM #5Senior Member
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Can you get away with using a couple of tie downs? (the small nylon straps & winches found everywhere these days.)
Regards, Bill
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8th November 2010, 07:53 AM #6Awaiting Email Confirmation
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Fuzzie,
How many sash cramps do you have?
Grind off the lugs on the end so the floating stops can be taken off and joint two of them together with some steel plate and bolts.
Put floating stop the other way around on the cramp and volia now I have 2 1.8 metre cramps that go 3 metres.
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8th November 2010, 09:04 AM #7
Thanks for the ideas guys. Having slept on it and got over a bit of the frustration of balancing all the pieces without clamps, I think I'll try the threaded rod.
The cabinet is only about 1400mm long and by the time the reo rod is cut that short I doubt there will be any issue with flex. I think I will run the rod through clamping timbers that have nuts and washers on both sides. This should give me a sort of clamping cage that will help hold things in place during clamp up as well as being able to draw things together incrementally along 3 axis and be in control.
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8th November 2010, 10:53 AM #8
Get a longer bit and make some V blocks to go across the diagonals to pull it into square if needed. Although i'm sure it won't be necessary
Those were the droids I was looking for.
https://autoblastgates.com.au
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8th November 2010, 07:09 PM #9
All thread worked a treat. It was a bit slow to draw all the joints in by moving around doing a few turns at a time on each leg, but on the other hand it was quite relaxed for the dry fit since I didn't know how it was actually going to pull together. In the end I found I had misplaced the tenons on one of the web frame pieces, but that was easy to fix with the cage holding things together while I took the piece out and adjusted it. For the glue up I suspect it might be a touch slow if the glue grips fast. The extra support offered by the cage arrangement was much better than an extra pair of hands trying to juggle sash cramps. However for speed I might take up Niels offer on the long cramps when I get to the real glue up.
The diagonals were only 5mm out and I think I should be able to introduce enough diagonal force by a simple twist of rope between the thread sticking up on the diagonals.
It was a slightly different story trying to break it down again by pushing the ends apart. It was a juggle getting the rod and noggins on the inside without accidentally applying the thread as a rasp to wood, but it eventually all came apart without damage.
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13th November 2010, 03:54 PM #10Originally Posted by Fuzzie
This was only 6 months ago
Edit - I did have to thread it myself though and I got a kit off eBay for $40 - bugger of a job and messy with all the cutting oil. Sounds like you did great without them though!
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