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Thread: help about japanese plane blade
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13th March 2010, 12:39 PM #31Intermediate Member
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hi , it s very interesting but a lot of peoples of other forum , said never heard about the miso for hardering blade , if I have new information I tell you
bon chance
javier from argentina
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13th March 2010 12:39 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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13th March 2010, 12:41 PM #32Intermediate Member
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hi thanks for the answers if I have some new information I will tell you
bom chanse
javier from argentina
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13th March 2010, 03:12 PM #33Senior Member
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I attended a 3-day seminar taught by Yataiki. I learned several things about laminating, among them:
1. You need a good flux for binding the metals. Yataiki used miso.
2. You need to be careful about the ratio of hard to soft metals. Too much hard and it wraps around the soft. Too little and it doesn't cover the base. Might be a good idea to start examining blades online, looking at the join line, at how the hard steel is or is not extended up the side bevels, gaining an appreciation for the expert work.
3. The Japanese forge, called a fuigo, is ingenious. You can see how to build one at Box Bellows
4. You need a helper, either a real person/slave or an automated hammer
5. It's a lot of work
You can get the steels you need without too much trouble. Also, keep in mind that in the old days western blades were laminated.
Pam
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13th March 2010, 04:12 PM #34Senior Member
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I haven't been there lately, but this site was always informative for me:
Home Page
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16th March 2010, 11:08 AM #35Intermediate Member
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hi people , someone can tell me what is the "paint" using in the japanese tools for the black colour???
thanks a lot
javier from the other side of the world
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16th March 2010, 11:55 AM #36
Hello again Javier,
Almost always, on Japanese tools, when there is a black colour to the metal, it is the result of the heat from the forging/hardening process forming iron oxide on the surface. When you see shiny steel, it is because the oxide has been ground or polished off (or the metal was protected from the (oxygen) air so the oxide won't form - one of the purposes of the clay [or miso] coating).
Pics thanks to Japan-Tool Japan Tool
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16th March 2010, 12:42 PM #37
I had emaied So-san with the question about miso. To his knowledge miso is not part of the mixture for yaki-ire (hardening).
It must obviously work as a flux however, as Pam has relayed.
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16th March 2010, 02:11 PM #38
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16th March 2010, 02:54 PM #39Senior Member
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Neil -- got advice for what to do when the oxide gets worn/scuffed off? I just oil it (generally choji) -- is there a better method?
Thanks,
Becky
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17th March 2010, 08:43 AM #40
Yes, Becky, that's all I do. Keep them oiled (camellia or clove or just plain pharmaceutical mineral oil). Over time they develop a grey patina which I associate with old, well maintained, tools.
.....Stay sharp and stay safe!
Neil
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17th March 2010, 12:35 PM #41Senior Member
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If you want to get the black look back and do not want to heat the blade (heaven forbid), you can use cold gun blue. I use it to touch up my tools and it looks great. Available at a gun shop near you.
Gadge
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18th March 2010, 04:00 AM #42Senior Member
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Thanks, Neil and Gadge. Good advice. Much appreciated.
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19th March 2010, 05:38 AM #43Intermediate Member
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thaks a lot for your answer
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22nd March 2010, 02:24 AM #44Senior Member
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