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4th October 2008, 04:06 PM #1
Which aerosol adhesive for scary sharpening?
I'm an old oil and water stone type of sharpener, but I would like to try the 'scary sharp' method of sharpening. Presumably there's a tricky new aerosol adhesive that allows easy removal of the abrasive paper from the glass substrate without having to resort to scrapers and solvents.
Can anyone guide me as to which adhesive they use to stick the paper down with?.
I know you believe you understand what you think I wrote, but I'm not sure you realize that what you just read is not what I meant.
Regards, Woodwould.
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4th October 2008, 04:44 PM #2Cro-Magnon
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Try it without adhesive, Woodwould. I find that if I wet the glass and slide a sheet of paper around for a few seconds, the paper sticks in place.
There is a school of thought that this allows the paper to form a little "wave" in front of a pushing blade, thus rounding the edge slightly, but I've never found this to be evident.... as long as the government is perceived as working for the benefit of children, the people will happily endure almost any curtailment of liberty and almost any deprivation. (A.Hitler)
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4th October 2008, 04:45 PM #3
I use a photomounting spray (like 3M 77). There still is a bit of cleanup but it is pretty easy
Cheers
Jeremy
If it were done when 'tis done, then 'twere well it were done quickly
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4th October 2008, 04:59 PM #4
Thank you both for your replies. With the water tension method, it would be interesting to watch the process from underneath the glass while someone is sharpening above to observe if there is any displacement of water or movement of the paper.
I would imagine the movement, if any at all, would be so infinitesimal that it would be no worse than the layer of glue compressing in the stick-it-down-with-glue method..
I know you believe you understand what you think I wrote, but I'm not sure you realize that what you just read is not what I meant.
Regards, Woodwould.
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4th October 2008, 06:31 PM #5
I use a product called Fuller Spray Bond. The instructions say that for a temporary bond, only apply to 1 surface, (doesn't seem to matter which), let it dry then bring the two surfaces together.
I'm using a 6mm aluminium plate which I put on my saw table to ensure flatness, it works very well that way.
I can't say for sure how it will work with a smoother surface like glass, but there is nothing in the instructions to suggest it wouldn't.
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4th October 2008, 07:03 PM #6
I use the Bostik spray adhesive to glue sheets and glass together for lapping stuff. I've tried scary sharp and it worked for me but it was too bloody messy compared to the simplicity of pulling a few stones out of water and flattening them...
I'd advise to sharpen on the pull stroke alone or very lightly on the push stroke if you so choose.
Cheers
Michaelmemento mori
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4th October 2008, 07:08 PM #7SENIOR MEMBER
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I just diluted white glue right down, with water. Worked great. A rubber roller is handy for bubbles. A teaspoon of PVA would last a lifetime.
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6th October 2008, 03:02 PM #8
I just use liquid contact adhesive - the stuff I had left over from gluing formica to a bench top. Peals off quite easily, then I clean up the glass plate with a razor blade scraper in about 30 seconds.
Cheers
Graeme
PS: I haven't been doing this for long enough for the glue to dry real hard. Longest glue has remained on plate before scraping is about 30 days.
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7th October 2008, 12:31 AM #9
My preference is to use waterstones but, when I do need sandpaper, I also use Fuller spray bond. It is a poster glue and easier to remove.
I tend to avoid using just water. The sandpaper will move and curl, which will dub the edge.
The trick when honing on sandpaper is to only move the blade backwards (if using a guide) or backwards and diagonally (if freehanding). That hold the sandpaper flat as it reaches the edge.
Regards from Perth
Derek
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7th October 2008, 06:08 PM #10
I read quite a lot of on-line content at the weekend relating to the Scary method of sharpening and this article is the best I've come across by far.
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I know you believe you understand what you think I wrote, but I'm not sure you realize that what you just read is not what I meant.
Regards, Woodwould.
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7th October 2008, 07:21 PM #11
Hi Woodwould
That is a good article of Bill's. However, when he begins to discuss creating a hollow ground on a 80 grit white wheel, I would recommend that one instead uses a 46 grit wheel. The latter is significantly lower in heat. In fact, if you really want a great grinding wheel, then get one of the blue 3X wheels from Norton. I'm afraid that these are only available in the US from Tools for Working Wood. This is the coolest grinding wheel I have used to date.
Regards from Perth
Derek
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7th October 2008, 10:46 PM #12
I agree Derek; I think technology has advanced a little since that article was written. The 3X wheels are now de rigeure for hand grinding.
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I know you believe you understand what you think I wrote, but I'm not sure you realize that what you just read is not what I meant.
Regards, Woodwould.
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11th October 2008, 10:05 AM #13Senior Member
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Hi Derek,
What about the ones from Gary Pye- they are Norton Blu-Max 54 grit - would that be the next best subsitute in Aus?
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11th October 2008, 07:27 PM #14
SS
I have used a 54 Blu-Max. I thought that it was only marginally better than my 46 grit white wheel (also Norton).
Regards from Perth
DerekVisit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
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