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Thread: AHHH rust
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6th April 2002, 01:02 AM #1Member
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AHHH rust
G`day guys I have a slight problem,I`ve just given my new JET table saw a coating of dry glide to keep the rust off and i thought i`d give my scrollsaw the same treatment. The problem is that due to lack off space it has been stored down in the back shed,of course the b$#^%&^ things gone rusty. The thing is do i sand it down or just cover it over with somthing(killrust ?)
thanks
cooky
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6th April 2002 01:02 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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6th April 2002, 09:23 PM #2
I would be tempted to attack the rust with some fine steel wool, then apply the dry glide.
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IF at first you don't succeed, relax your normal.I try and do new things twice.. the first time to see if I can do it.. the second time to see if I like it
Kev
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6th April 2002, 11:09 PM #3
In addition to the steel wool apply a little WD40 to the work surface then steel wool, mop up the slurry with a rag, works for me when the dreaded patina hits. Helps to prevent further rust too.
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: http://community.webshots.com/user/iain49Stupidity kills. Absolute stupidity kills absolutely.
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8th April 2002, 08:58 PM #4
Cookie, a mate of mine uses citric acid on old steam engines that he is recovering and restoring to working examples with very little effect on the metal according to him.
I have a coffee jar of the stuff and have used it in small quantities and it isn't as invasive as pearl caustic or other such other astringents.It does leave metal clean where you can put a fine coat of oil on.
Cheers
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JohnnoJohnno
Everyone has a photographic memory, some just don't have film.
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9th April 2002, 09:56 PM #5
I use Liquid Engineering rust remover. I consider it the best thing since sliced bread. Read about it at www.liquidengineering.com it removes the rust but not the paint
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18th April 2002, 10:33 PM #6
good luck getting the rust off
keeping it off isnt as easy a some would think. i live in queensland and my shed is a little more humid than i would like. i have tried a number if things to keep the tops of my machines clean & shiny. by far the best is to use them regularly that helps.
but i have also found that car polish is realy good on those cast surfaces. i have tried bees wax, crc, ect but car polish i have found to work best so far.
it tends to cut fine rust film off and seals the metal reasonably well. i would re aply after using the machine and every month or so if not.
it tends to make the job slide smoother too.
suck it & see & lets hear back.Any thing with sharp teeth eats meat.
Most powertools have sharp teeth.
People are made of meat.
Abrasives can be just as dangerous as a blade.....and 10 times more painfull.
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18th April 2002, 11:25 PM #7
Using car polish is possibly also putting silicon on the work surface. Not really a good thing around timber.
I believe a lot of car restorers are using molases as a rust remover. It is supposed to be absolutely fantastic, and brings the metal back to virtually new. Might be wortha search on the www.
Cheers - Neil
PS I have often use our talc on the saw bench, thicknesser, etc. as a lubricant, it also helps cut surface rust. Maybe I should look at a wax formula for metal. Hmmm U-Beaut Machinewax. Nah don't like the sound of it. Maybe if someone could come up with a decent name I'd make it.KEEP A LID ON THE GARBAGE... Report spam, scams, and inappropriate posts, PMs and Blogs.
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18th April 2002, 11:36 PM #8Supermod
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Machine wax eh Neil? Hmmm what could we call that... argh bugger it, we still havn't had a winner for the bumper sticker comp....hahah.. So choose your own name.. mwahahah...
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19th April 2002, 09:35 AM #9Retired
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Slippery S**t?
Molasses is used widely for rust removal on Veteran and vintage car parts, however it is a long process that generally requires the parts to be immersed for days. Oh, and by the way: the smell is terrible .
I use a random orbital or belt sander to remove rust from any of the tables and then put a product called Seiberglietz on. It is specifically made for metal to wood contact and leaves no nasty residue to foul up the finish.
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Ian () Robertson
"We do good turns every day"
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19th April 2002, 11:47 AM #10Senior Member
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G'day all
I use a non silicon car polish on my machine tables, works good protecting and helping the wood move. I still have to push a little bit though.
Cheers
Rod
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19th April 2002, 01:11 PM #11Member
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Thanks guys I will try some of these remedies shortly and let you know how i get on.
cooky
P.S. Niel- Rustwax ? Castwax ? Ionwax ? YUK
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19th April 2002, 02:00 PM #12Novice
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Just plain old hardwood floor paste wax makes for maintaining rust free cast iron tops. just rub on a good coat once every month and buff off. be careful makes for a very slick top don't want to read about any accidents here on the bb. does not leave any residue on the material when buffed off good.
kenny
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20th April 2002, 03:20 PM #13In pursuit of excellence
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I once left a green burl sitting on my (cast) bandsaw table for a few days, when I picked it up some surface rust had developed where the table contacted the burl.
I used 600 grade wet&dry sandpaper over a sanding block and lots of WD40 to wet sand the table back to rust free condition. It did a great job, IMHO it came up looking and feeling better than when I actually bought it.
Of course I've learnt my lesson now, and don't leave ANYTHING sitting on my machine tables, particularly green timber
In terms of preventative maintenance, a once a month or thereabouts spray/wipe with wd40 does the trick for me.
Cheers,
Justin.
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20th April 2002, 03:52 PM #14Supermod
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Hmmm I heard somewhere....I said heard so its probably not fact.... That WD40 actually speeds up the process of rust. Set me straight people...! Did I hear wrong or did I hear right...
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20th April 2002, 06:20 PM #15
Neil, U Beaut wax for saws, Better than RUSTIN, Hahahaha.......
Sure you would agree though.
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: http://community.webshots.com/user/iain49Stupidity kills. Absolute stupidity kills absolutely.