Thread: What to clean a new saw with

I used some Kero to remove the coating that was on it whilst being shipped . Seemed to work pretty well.

Not sure what to maintain it with. I too would like to know what people use to keep the rust away from the top etc.

G'day.

I'm sure both subjects have been covered on the forum before.

Any 'safe solvent' (?) should get it off.... the unsafe ones will too but...

There are several flavours for rust prevention.
I'm currently using Lanogaurd.
Do a search on 'rust + removal + tools' & 'rust + prevention + tools' that should find the older posts.

I picked up a small bottle of this at the WW show.
I'm going to give it a try out with my Tormek.
http://www.enginewise.co.uk/water-stone-additive.php
It doesn't have a safety data sheet so I don't know what's in it.

The bottle says to use the following on the newly sharpened tool but the stand selling the stuff didn't have it.
http://www.enginewise.co.uk/metal-protection.php

Here's what the safety data sheet says is in the metal protection.....

"COMPOSITION/INFORMATION ON INGREDIENTS
A blend of corrosion inhibitors, waxes and mineral oil in petroleum distillate.
Flammable liquid. Flash point 40°C. Contains 50-90% white spirit."

I don't know what it would be like on a woodworking machine/tool.

I find kerosene good. Use a bit of really fine steel wool. It has that slightly oily feel as well

For longer term preservation use Lanaguard. Its great..

Mineral turps for grease removal and WD40 with 0000 steel wool for rust, finished of with an application of Traditional wax.
I will try the other one day but I do my tops about once a month just to keep them slippery.

I'de go with the kero cheeper and oiler than turps fine steel wool or brass wheel in a drill if the rust is too heavy
I live close to the beach and am always fighting rust and not always winning

Lanoguard is great but can build up if used in locks etc but great on flat surfaces
WD40 is very light and will break down grease and can cause some problems when sprayed too liberally on gearing also tends to be too dry for my liking.
A good light mineral oil wiped on works but you need to do this more often
The Traditional wax has also been good espically where oil may stain the timber like on the joiner table



The trouble with life is there's no background music.

For lubricating the gears I use a graphite puffer. Traditional wax is good for protecting the table top and making it nice & slippery.

I use CRC dry glide on the table top and Inox on the trunion.

A quick wave with the heat gun and most of the protective coating wipes off.

Hint... before cutting any wood clean off the trunion and all its gears/cogs(remove the table top), the grease that comes from the factory just loves sawdust, will jam up soild real quick If you dont do it.

I use good old fashioned Mr Sheen on the table top and go over it every 3 weeks or so. No problems with rust to date!

The dreaded silicon, don't do it, guaranteed to bugger up future finishes.

I don't understand the question

Originally Posted by Gumby

I don't understand the question

Then you need to buy a new saw.

Originally Posted by Ashore

Lanoguard is great but can build up if used in locks etc but great on flat surfaces

I have just applied Lanoguard to my table saw. The shed now smells like a shearing shed. Finding myself swearing more and craving billy tea and a rolly. Does any own have a good damper recipe???

I find this good for cleaning up all sorts of oily messes, it also worked beautifully on my new Leda saw. Top coated well with a grease, no rust or tarnishing. The citrus oil cleaned it up beautifully and left a surface that was clean but still had a nice feel and slide.
Suresh