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Thread: Lie-Nielsen now in Melbourne
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11th June 2005, 01:30 PM #1
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Lie-Nielsen now in Melbourne
Roy Green from Get Woodworking in Williamstown is now an authorised seller of Lie-Nielsen tools. I just got my no 62 Low angle Jack plane and it is everything that Derek wrote about in his reviews of low angle planes.
There is no way I would have bought it previously, it was way too expensive, but now with the drop in price with the new Australian distributor it is value for money. Lovely long curls of shavings straight out of the box, not even a touch up on the sharpening stone. Sigh, why didn’t I have one of these when I first started.
I had played with Woodborers LN planes last year and thought that while they were fabulous, they were not for me. Now that I have taken the plunge with one I suspect that I will be getting more over time.
In the meanwhile I will be replacing the blades on my old Stanley planes with LN A2 blades through Roy at GWW. It is great to have a local supplier of good quality hand tools and machinery.
I live to the west of Melbourne, in Bacchus Marsh, and it is a real bugger to get to the shops in the south. The location of the shop in Willamstown is ideal. Easy to get to off the freeway, good parking and great service. I have found Roy to be knowledgeable, helpful and friendly.
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11th June 2005, 03:41 PM #2
Hi Suresh
That sounds like a match made in heavan! What you want to do now is get another blade for the #62 and hone a 35-37 degree microbevel (in one or two stages) onto the existing 25 degree primary bevel, giving you a 60-62 degree cutting angle for hardwood. That should be an eye-opener!
Regards from Perth
Derek
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14th June 2005, 11:13 AM #3
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I had a look at the LN website and they did suggest getting a second blade, I did so.
Derek, do you only need a secondary bevel to get the high angle? I am so glad that you replied, I was going to grind back the original bevel on the second blade and regrind it. If I only need a secondary bevel it will make the whole process painless.
Thanks again
suresh
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14th June 2005, 12:11 PM #4
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Hi Suresh,
I was thinking of doing exactly the same as you until Derek intervened a couple of weeks ago. Instead I followed his and others' advice. The outcome with the steeper secondary bevel is brilliant.
Enjoy the LN 62 it's a great plane.
Regards
Mike
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14th June 2005, 03:19 PM #5
Originally Posted by derekcohen
If I do not clearly express what I mean, it is either for the reason that having no conversational powers, I cannot express what I mean, or that having no meaning, I do not mean what I fail to express. Which, to the best of my belief, is not the case.
Mr. Grewgious, The Mystery of Edwin Drood - Charles Dickens
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14th June 2005, 04:35 PM #6has the LN got a higher bed angle?
Regards from Perth
Derek
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14th June 2005, 04:45 PM #7
Hang on a second. When you say "another 25 degrees", you are talking about honing a 50 degree micro bevel, are you not? If you honed at 25 degrees, you would be honing the same angle as the primary bevel, yes? So you are starting at 12 degrees and then honing some angle on the blade, therefore your cutting angle is 12 degrees plus whatever the final bevel is, micro or not. If you have honed a micro bevel, the angle of the primary bevel is immaterial... I think...
My head is spinning..."I don't practice what I preach because I'm not the kind of person I'm preaching to."
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14th June 2005, 05:10 PM #8
Silent, is what you mean that the micro bevel becomes the only bevel actually used, so it's angle is "the angle"? That's how I understand your post anyhow, makes sense cos the primary bevel is just getting rid of excess steel to save sharpeing times.
What if we add a back bevel?
OOPS, I feel giddy, gotta go lie downBoring signature time again!
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14th June 2005, 05:16 PM #9
Originally Posted by outback
Driver of the Forums
Lord of the Manor of Upper Legover
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14th June 2005, 08:02 PM #10
Hi Driver,
Actually, you can put a small (less than 10 deg) back bevel on a bevel up plane. It will enable the edge to remain sharper a little longer. What it does is increase the included angle (sum of both bevels) without changing the effective cutting angle (the top bevel).
This is one reason why it pays to own a good honing guide. Makes it painless and accurate.
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15th June 2005, 09:01 AM #11Silent, is what you mean that the micro bevel becomes the only bevel actually used, so it's angle is "the angle"? That's how I understand your post anyhow, makes sense cos the primary bevel is just getting rid of excess steel to save sharpeing times.
Actually, it was more a question of semantics (I hate that word). Derek was saying to hone a 35-37 degree micro bevel and then corrected himself by saying 25 degrees. But I would have said hone a 50 degree micro bevel because that's the angle at which you would address the blade to the stone. If the primary bevel was not 25 degrees, you could still hone a 50 degree micro bevel and have the same result.
I was just thinking in terms of how you would set the blade in a honing guide for example. I know the Veritas guide does it by adding one or two degrees to the set angle, so you might think in terms of that when talking about it but you can't just add another 25 degrees without resetting the blade.
Don't worry, it's me that's getting confused and I think I'll go have a cup of coffee."I don't practice what I preach because I'm not the kind of person I'm preaching to."
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15th June 2005, 09:08 AM #12
Originally Posted by Driver
Aren't you still adding to the angle? I know what you mean, and agree inregard to to lifting the blade off the surface, It doesn't sit at all well adding a back bevel to a bevel up plane.
I really do think we should all have our sedatives now.Boring signature time again!
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15th June 2005, 09:18 AM #13
Adding a back bevel to a bevel up blade is changing the clearance angle, which in this case is 12 degrees. If you hone a back bevel at less than 12 degrees then you'll be OK but if you hone greater than 12 then the leading edge of the blade will be off the timber and it will be riding on the back of the blade.
Increasing the included angle makes the edge stronger because there is more metal behind the edge, so as MikeW says it should maintain the edge longer. But does it make any difference to the cutting action?"I don't practice what I preach because I'm not the kind of person I'm preaching to."
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15th June 2005, 11:27 AM #14
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Originally Posted by silentC
http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...6&postcount=15Dan
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15th June 2005, 11:33 AM #15
Originally Posted by outback
I think a sedative-laced pancake might be appropriate round about now. :confused:Driver of the Forums
Lord of the Manor of Upper Legover