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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Bacchus Marsh
    Posts
    140

    Default Lie-Nielsen now in Melbourne

    Roy Green from Get Woodworking in Williamstown is now an authorised seller of Lie-Nielsen tools. I just got my no 62 Low angle Jack plane and it is everything that Derek wrote about in his reviews of low angle planes.

    There is no way I would have bought it previously, it was way too expensive, but now with the drop in price with the new Australian distributor it is value for money. Lovely long curls of shavings straight out of the box, not even a touch up on the sharpening stone. Sigh, why didn’t I have one of these when I first started.

    I had played with Woodborers LN planes last year and thought that while they were fabulous, they were not for me. Now that I have taken the plunge with one I suspect that I will be getting more over time.
    In the meanwhile I will be replacing the blades on my old Stanley planes with LN A2 blades through Roy at GWW. It is great to have a local supplier of good quality hand tools and machinery.

    I live to the west of Melbourne, in Bacchus Marsh, and it is a real bugger to get to the shops in the south. The location of the shop in Willamstown is ideal. Easy to get to off the freeway, good parking and great service. I have found Roy to be knowledgeable, helpful and friendly.

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    10,870

    Default

    Hi Suresh

    That sounds like a match made in heavan! What you want to do now is get another blade for the #62 and hone a 35-37 degree microbevel (in one or two stages) onto the existing 25 degree primary bevel, giving you a 60-62 degree cutting angle for hardwood. That should be an eye-opener!

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Bacchus Marsh
    Posts
    140

    Default

    I had a look at the LN website and they did suggest getting a second blade, I did so.
    Derek, do you only need a secondary bevel to get the high angle? I am so glad that you replied, I was going to grind back the original bevel on the second blade and regrind it. If I only need a secondary bevel it will make the whole process painless.
    Thanks again
    suresh

  5. #4
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    26

    Default

    Hi Suresh,

    I was thinking of doing exactly the same as you until Derek intervened a couple of weeks ago. Instead I followed his and others' advice. The outcome with the steeper secondary bevel is brilliant.

    Enjoy the LN 62 it's a great plane.

    Regards

    Mike

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Hornsby, NSW
    Age
    50
    Posts
    453

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by derekcohen
    Hi Suresh

    That sounds like a match made in heavan! What you want to do now is get another blade for the #62 and hone a 35-37 degree microbevel (in one or two stages) onto the existing 25 degree primary bevel, giving you a 60-62 degree cutting angle for hardwood. That should be an eye-opener!

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Derek, I thought the bed angle for the #62 was 12 degrees, so a 35-37 microbevel will give a 47-49 degree cutting angle. Or has the LN got a higher bed angle?
    If I do not clearly express what I mean, it is either for the reason that having no conversational powers, I cannot express what I mean, or that having no meaning, I do not mean what I fail to express. Which, to the best of my belief, is not the case.
    Mr. Grewgious, The Mystery of Edwin Drood - Charles Dickens

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Perth
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    10,870

    Default

    has the LN got a higher bed angle?
    No Slavo, only my arithmetic has got worse. Still a 12 degree bed. Add existing low angle bevel of 25 degrees. Total 37 degrees. You then need another 25 degrees to get you to 62 degrees (not 37 as I stated earlier).

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  8. #7
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    Aug 2003
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    Pambula
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    Default

    Hang on a second. When you say "another 25 degrees", you are talking about honing a 50 degree micro bevel, are you not? If you honed at 25 degrees, you would be honing the same angle as the primary bevel, yes? So you are starting at 12 degrees and then honing some angle on the blade, therefore your cutting angle is 12 degrees plus whatever the final bevel is, micro or not. If you have honed a micro bevel, the angle of the primary bevel is immaterial... I think...

    My head is spinning...
    "I don't practice what I preach because I'm not the kind of person I'm preaching to."

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
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    Over there a bit
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    17
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    Default

    Silent, is what you mean that the micro bevel becomes the only bevel actually used, so it's angle is "the angle"? That's how I understand your post anyhow, makes sense cos the primary bevel is just getting rid of excess steel to save sharpeing times.

    What if we add a back bevel?

    OOPS, I feel giddy, gotta go lie down
    Boring signature time again!

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
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    Perth, WA
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by outback
    Silent, is what you mean that the micro bevel becomes the only bevel actually used, so it's angle is "the angle"? That's how I understand your post anyhow, makes sense cos the primary bevel is just getting rid of excess steel to save sharpeing times.

    What if we add a back bevel?

    OOPS, I feel giddy, gotta go lie down
    If you use a back bevel with a bevel-up blade, you won't be adding anything, you'll be subtracting from the angle. If the back bevel is sufficiently severe, you'll actually be lifting the cutting edge away from the surface of the wood!
    Driver of the Forums
    Lord of the Manor of Upper Legover

  11. #10
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Forest Grove, Oregon USA
    Posts
    496

    Default

    Hi Driver,

    Actually, you can put a small (less than 10 deg) back bevel on a bevel up plane. It will enable the edge to remain sharper a little longer. What it does is increase the included angle (sum of both bevels) without changing the effective cutting angle (the top bevel).

    This is one reason why it pays to own a good honing guide. Makes it painless and accurate.

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
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    Pambula
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    Default

    Silent, is what you mean that the micro bevel becomes the only bevel actually used, so it's angle is "the angle"? That's how I understand your post anyhow, makes sense cos the primary bevel is just getting rid of excess steel to save sharpeing times.
    Yes, that's what I meant. I think :confused:

    Actually, it was more a question of semantics (I hate that word). Derek was saying to hone a 35-37 degree micro bevel and then corrected himself by saying 25 degrees. But I would have said hone a 50 degree micro bevel because that's the angle at which you would address the blade to the stone. If the primary bevel was not 25 degrees, you could still hone a 50 degree micro bevel and have the same result.

    I was just thinking in terms of how you would set the blade in a honing guide for example. I know the Veritas guide does it by adding one or two degrees to the set angle, so you might think in terms of that when talking about it but you can't just add another 25 degrees without resetting the blade.

    Don't worry, it's me that's getting confused and I think I'll go have a cup of coffee.
    "I don't practice what I preach because I'm not the kind of person I'm preaching to."

  13. #12
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Driver
    If you use a back bevel with a bevel-up blade, you won't be adding anything, you'll be subtracting from the angle. If the back bevel is sufficiently severe, you'll actually be lifting the cutting edge away from the surface of the wood!
    You have now entered the twighlight zone.

    Aren't you still adding to the angle? I know what you mean, and agree inregard to to lifting the blade off the surface, It doesn't sit at all well adding a back bevel to a bevel up plane.


    I really do think we should all have our sedatives now.
    Boring signature time again!

  14. #13
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    Default

    Adding a back bevel to a bevel up blade is changing the clearance angle, which in this case is 12 degrees. If you hone a back bevel at less than 12 degrees then you'll be OK but if you hone greater than 12 then the leading edge of the blade will be off the timber and it will be riding on the back of the blade.

    Increasing the included angle makes the edge stronger because there is more metal behind the edge, so as MikeW says it should maintain the edge longer. But does it make any difference to the cutting action?
    "I don't practice what I preach because I'm not the kind of person I'm preaching to."

  15. #14
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Boyne Island, Queensland
    Age
    51
    Posts
    929

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by silentC
    . But does it make any difference to the cutting action?
    It will allow you to grind a 15 degree main bevel which will now give you a plane that cuts at 27 degrees. So now you need three blades, the high angle, the standard and the super low version.
    http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...6&postcount=15
    Dan

  16. #15
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Perth, WA
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by outback
    You have now entered the twighlight zone.

    Aren't you still adding to the angle? I know what you mean, and agree inregard to to lifting the blade off the surface, It doesn't sit at all well adding a back bevel to a bevel up plane.


    I really do think we should all have our sedatives now.
    Y'know, the more I think about this, the more that comment about sex and boxes of chocolates begins to make sense. :eek:

    I think a sedative-laced pancake might be appropriate round about now. :confused:
    Driver of the Forums
    Lord of the Manor of Upper Legover

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