Thread: Removing a drill chuck

here's the photo

Arron

Originally Posted by Arron

Hi Guys. I want to salvage the keyless chuck from an old drill press. Thats it in the photo attached. Can anyone tell me how I go about removing the chuck - it seems to be stuck onto the shaft (spindle ???) pretty tight.

thanks
Arron

So where's the photo ???
Should have a LEFT handed screw in it


Normell

Do I see a grub screw in the photo? If so, what does that do?........AL

I removed the grub screw, and it just seems to lock up the top knurled ring. Remove the screw and that top ring is loose but the chuck is no less fixed to the spindle.

Arron

OK Arron,wait for the experts.......AL

Most drill press chucks come on a morse taper shaft and usually further up the shaft there would be a slot near the top of the morse taper shaft in the outer shaft tube and drill presses usually come with a drive wedge to put into the slot to force the morse taper out of the outer drive shaft.

You may also find that the chuck is just a push fit onto the morse taper section, using a very slow taper.

Originally Posted by Termite

You may also find that the chuck is just a push fit onto the morse taper section, using a very slow taper.

OK, so if its just a push fit, then how do I get it off ? I'd like to know what I'm doing before I start thumping it. Thanks.

Bazza, I'm afraid I dont understand your post (I have very little experience with anything engineering). Could you please clarify.

thanks
Arron

Originally Posted by Arron

Bazza, I'm afraid I dont understand your post (I have very little experience with anything engineering). Could you please clarify.

thanks
Arron

A picture is worth a thousand words.

If you wind the the Tri handle down to the maximum it should reveal the slot if it is there one. Just turn the shaft if you can't see it and it should line the slots up.

Have a look here, http://www.beautifuliron.com/jacobs.htm (about half way down) or here, http://www.beautifuliron.com/mttaper.htm depending on which bit you want to remove.

Arron, have a look at the top of the machine and see if the front shaft is hollow. If so, you should be able to insert a long rod to knock the MT out. No need for a hammer, just hit the end of the MT smartly with the rod a few times.

I believe that what Barry is talking about is a slot in the shaft surrounding the shaft. Lower the chuck as far as it'll go and look for a slot a few inches above the end. You should be able to see the end of the MT thru the slot and a wedge driven in here will(should) knock it free.

If neither of the above methods are applicable (solid shaft/no slot) then I'd work as though it's a threaded chuck instead of a morse taper.

Try drilling a hole in a length of steel and putting a nut/bolt through it to make a "T-handle." Spot-welding it would be a better idea, but... Insert the end of the bolt into the chuck and tighten AMAP. Remove the belt from the pulleys and then grasp the front pulley firmly with one hand. Using a small block of wood, smartly hit the end of the steel rod in the same direction as the chuck normally turns. Be careful of your fingers on the pulley! I don't recommend clamping the pulley in any other way as A) it shouldn't be needed and B) if it won't go then there may be another grub-screw and you don't want to force anything until it breaks.

This last method should also be reasonably effective if it's a morse taper.

The worst case scenario is a keyed shaft, in which case you need a puller to remove the chuck. Not a pretty sight.

I just had another look at the drill to see if I could align it with what you have described or the references Dan posted. In practice, it doesnt give many clues away. You can see in the photo what is visible when the bit is lowered - just a really thick and smooth shaft. Above that, just in view in the photo is the body of the drill, which is truly massive and largely one piece. Above this is a big variable-speed pulley, which prevents view of the shaft from above. It is therefore hard to ascertain what type of arbour it is sitting on, or how to go about removing it.

Does this clarify it for anyone.

Arron

Arron

Looking at that pic it seems to me that the chuck is threaded on. I think your option is to go with Skew's advise as noted below.

Originally Posted by Skew ChiDAMN!!

Try drilling a hole in a length of steel and putting a nut/bolt through it to make a "T-handle." Spot-welding it would be a better idea, but... Insert the end of the bolt into the chuck and tighten AMAP. Remove the belt from the pulleys and then grasp the front pulley firmly with one hand. Using a small block of wood, smartly hit the end of the steel rod in the same direction as the chuck normally turns. Be careful of your fingers on the pulley! I don't recommend clamping the pulley in any other way as A) it shouldn't be needed and B) if it won't go then there may be another grub-screw and you don't want to force anything until it breaks.

This last method should also be reasonably effective if it's a morse taper.

The worst case scenario is a keyed shaft, in which case you need a puller to remove the chuck. Not a pretty sight.

Arron Only as a last resort and only after you have made sure there are no locking rings or nuts And the chuck is definately not screwed on Check Skew CHidamms thread.
a Use fox wedges ( steel wedges about 30mm x 60mm and 10mm thick that taper to nothing) Between the top of the chuch and the drill spindle drive one from each side in opposite directions with two people hitting in unison and equal force, you may drive it out with a mininum of damage
b Take the chuck to the lowest position and lock then with two reasonable sized punches , again from opposite sides drive down in unison
c Both methods may be improved by applying heat quickly to the drill shaft

I hope that no one has used locktite as was suggested in another thread to hold a loose morse taper in

In any event you will need to have a serious look at the taper in the drill before you re insert another morse sleeve in otherwise this may also jam
There have been some threads on morse taper overhauls lately that may help when you get it out



Rgds


Ashore