Thread: What is the best sharpening jig?

OK!!!! :mad: I'm totally fed up with this crap about how if you sharpen every day... or you'll suck at sharpening... You're bloody Australians for &^%* sake. Rumour has it you're fiercely independent, not suppose to be afraid of anything and willing to try anything at least once. But after reading this you all sound like a bunch of Nancies. Maybe the rumour was talking about Kiwis... so prove me wrong!!!

I'm more than happy to open up my garage and have a day(s) of scraping metal across stones. I'm available any weekend with more than a few days notice to finally put this rediculous idea to bed once and for all. I'm dead serious if you really need to know.

You don't have to understand what I mean. I know.

The jig, for me, gives efficient, repeatable, reliable results - for me. Good for you to be the expert whizz handsharpener. I have tried this on my 2 big LV Jack blades, and it takes me longer - to grind oput the rounded edge that my imperfect human muscles put there. My method gives me a razor sharp long lasting 0.5mm microbevel on a 0.3 micron stone. I cannot adjust my hands in 1° increments, every time, +/- a fraction of a degree. It only takes a minute. True.

Besides, I don't keep it in a drawer. Bet you didn't know that either.

For me the Veritas Mk II is the best all round jig, especially when combined with the small tool holder (for smaller chisels). It allows for repeated honing at a given angle very easily. It's cheap enough and works very well indeed.

Originally Posted by derekcohen

I believe a honing guide is essential if honing bevel up blades since accuracy is very important. Even bevel down blades benefit from this repeatability - although I do many of these (especially chisels) freehand because I like to (and it is less important if I round over the bevel slightly)

Derek

Respectfully, I could not disagree more. You're talking about wood here, a material that in the same board the density, fiber and grain vary immensely. You can't measure 10mm and not see the change in grain angle anywhere along a board which completely nullifies your perfect angle. Having an angle a couple degrees out will make absolutely no difference what so ever. Having an angle that is 10 degrees and sure you'll notice a diffence... This is wood, it takes your rigid thinking and throws it back in your face everytime.

Lou, I just cannot accept your position re the Veritas MkII; it just doesn't coincide with my experience at all.

Originally Posted by TassieKiwi

Does everyone else forget to re-set the micro-bevel thing too?

Den

Ahem! err, yup

What is the advantage in doing this? :confused:

i.e. not using the blade setting thingy -
I find it a bit quicker, cause attaching and taking off the "blade setting thingy" seems fiddly to me. Just a personal preferance, particularly when doing a lot of blades in one go.

Toolin - I think the repeatability issue in Dereks post refers to the micro-bevel angle of the blade - i.e. for we freehand Losers the jig means that we don't end up with 15 bloody different micro bevels :mad: !!

You seem a bit passionate - I'd love to take you up on the offer of a sharpening 'workshop' as my freehand efforts are a bit dodgy. I think that because I have had to teach myself, I find the jig so good.

I blame my teacher.

Gidday Stewart

Dispite the Whooooo HArrrrrrr from the usual rable All I'm simply trying to do is give U a reference point for your question which I believe was forum members subjective opionion on what we think is "THE BEST" Honing guide.

For me the "BEST" honing guide can be used easily and seemlessly by both the "lay" person and "expert" alike.

For me "the best" honing guide can be used straight outta the "box" without fear of doing damage to my well loved waterstones.

For me "the best" honing guide performs as it advertises it does this accurately and effeciently.

For me "the best" honing guide is something I learn to use quickly and gives predictable results.

For others that want to champion a particular brand be rude to forum peers or what ever ...............................
They will have a very different opionion on what constitutes "The Best" Honing guide available today (& you know who you are)

My counsel is what ever U use you will become proficient at and if practiced enough expert at weilding......................Wether it be a chepo Stanley or more Versatile Veritas Mk2

My "Red Flag" for U Stewart is that if you go down the PAth of the Veritas Mk 2 there is:

1. A learning curb to consider
2. The fact the the Honing guide may not function as advertised
3. the FAct that Angles "MAY" be a bit out
4. The fact that the Mk2 requires an ongoing maintenance schedule
5. The fact that if your having a "Bad DAy" or your Honing technique is out a bit you may damage your expensive waterstones.

IF the above constitutes "The BEst" for you good on ya your easily pleased I'll definately stand by my earlier suggestion that all things being equal the Veritas is NOT THE BEST HONING GUIDE available. I'm not as easily please and thats my choice

REgards Lou

Originally Posted by Toolin Around

By the time you've got the jig out of the drawer I'm back to work. It is by far the most simple of tasks that has been complicated by people that spend far too much time thinking instead of doing.

Bout time some good old fashion commonsence is spoken. I heard of a 10,000# stone here? What the heck would you want one that high for? I hollow grind on the aluminimun oxide then quickly by hand on the red and then yellow diamond stone. The micro bevel is just a matter of lifting the blade slightly and drawing it back once or twice. Takes 2 or 3 minutes and the chisels/plane blades are very, very sharp as whats "possibly" needed. When the hollow grind has dissapeared after some weeks of hand sharpning, just do it all over again. So simple

One of Krenovs books he tell how he has only 3 old oil stones and he carnt remember the last time he flattend them and they all have slight hollows from use over the years, and he just hollow grinds on the grinder and quickly freehands on those old stones, and in his words "his planes sing"

Just follow toolins advice and learn right from the start to do it the real woodies way.... By hand.

Originally Posted by Lignum

Just follow toolins advice and learn right from the start to do it the real woodies way.... By hand.

YIPEE!!

Sanity Prevails!!!!

I'll be throwing my Jigs altogether soon just like burnin bra's

Seriously though the Mk2 has allowed me to try different angles etc etc in both chisels n plane blades from 20 to 40 degress in Pine Merantee Redgum n ASh

and the first thing I have to report back is that I can't tell any difference other than my blade angles under 30 degrees dont hold an edge as long

Which takes me to my final conclusion............the BEST SHARPENING JIG is you learning to free hand grind n hone!!!!

REgards Lou:eek::eek::eek:

Louie Jigs have a place, sure. But they arnt the be all and end all. If woodies out their want to get all jiged up about it thats fine, but they should look at doing quick touch ups by hand and that way learn to do it. Its not hard. Gradualy you will find its just as easy and 10 times faster to get a razor sharp edge that will do "everything" that a blade needs to do on timber. Having 10,000# and getting shavings so fine you can read through them and have them float to the ground like a feather is nice for the sharpeners ego, but dosnt make your furniture any better.

Originally Posted by silentC

That is the biggest load of hogwash I have read here yet.

NAaaaaaaaarrrrrrrr

Are you a scruncher or a folder is

http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...ad.php?t=30949

Regards Lou

I hope this doesn't turn into an endless thread on which way is the best.... I'm sure thats been done before .... remember its all horses for courses.

Lou, if you are gouging your waterstones, then there is a quick way to avoid that. Drag instead of push, as previously mentioned. This will resolve your gouging problem.

I'm a bit mystified that you don't think it does what it is advertised, and that you can't learn to use it quickly.
Perhaps if you let the collective mind know about your exact problem then they might be able to offer a solution... this could be a way to stop your $60 being a waste. Maybe a new thread?

Ruffly - I don't suppose you have a few spare bits of leather. I need a few "fifty cent" size pieces to make washers from. I'd prefer to beg a piece from you rather than have to hunt in an Opp shop for something to cut up and waste.

It's a fair hike but if you are ever in Brisbane, Reverse Garbage in West End has mountains of leather offcuts.