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4th August 2007, 08:54 PM #1
Another take on Sturdee's Triton Slding Table Mod
When I looked arond for a tablesaw I considered getting one with a sliding
table.
Most of the sliding table models I looked at didn't impress and when I saw
Sturdee's mod for the Triton Maxi Sliding Table I gave up on any of the
sliding table models.
As I already owned the Triton Sliding Table it wasn't really an additional cost
and even when buying one from new it isn't a huge cost.
I was very impressed with the way Sturdee had adapted the Triton Sliding Table
to his TSC10HB and was going to do the same thing to my new tablesaw.
However when I visited another forumite (bfx) he showed me the sliding table
mod on the same saw I was buying and it was obvious that there is at least one
draw back to having a left tilting blade. The motor on these saws is on the
left and hinges open, effectively hitting the MDF/chipboard support for the
sliding table and stopping the door from opening very far. It the became
necessary on Bill's saw to take the door off its' hinges to access the motor
compartment.
This set me thinking that there should be another way to mount the brackets for
the sliding rail.
When fabricating my mobile base from 38x38x2.5 SHS steel it hit me that the
same material could be used to make a support for the sliding rail, as the
table is about 45mm thick this should leave the door free to open, height
wise.
Picture 1 shows the welded support for the Triton brackets, the door can still
open and far enough to access the motor compartment.
The support is 940mm long and 250mm high.
PICT0002.jpg
Picture 2 shows that the door can open almost 90 deg.
20070731_003.jpg
Picture 3 shows the welds cleaned up, the Triton brackets fitted and the whole
assembly bolted to the tablesaw table, 4 holes needed to be drilled in the
side of the table
20070731_007.jpg
Picture 4 shows the sliding rail fitted
20070731_006.jpg
Picture 5 shows another angle of the sliding rail. Please note the tablesaw
fence rail has been removed to fit the sliding table support.
20070731_005.jpgLast edited by Big Shed; 24th June 2017 at 06:50 PM.
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4th August 2007 08:54 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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4th August 2007, 08:57 PM #2
Picture 1 shows the fence re-fittied after shortening it by about 90mm to
clear the sliding rail support and give enough room for the nut on the bolt
holding the bracket.
20070731_008.jpg
Picture 2 Here the support is painted and fitted with the brackets
20070803_003.jpg
Picture 3 With the sliding rail fitted
Picture 4 Showing the door open with the rail fitted
20070803_002.jpg
Picture 5 Ready for action! First job was cutting some 32mm laminated
chipboard to size (1000x740) for the tablesaw extension wing. Worked like a
charm!
20070804_005.jpgLast edited by Big Shed; 24th June 2017 at 07:55 PM.
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4th August 2007, 08:59 PM #3
Some final pictures.
Picture 1 Another shot of the shortened fence rail (90mm)
19.jpg
Picture 2 As the height of this saw (875mm), even sitting on the mobile base,
is lower than the Triton (900mm), I will have to shorten the front support
stand on the outer rail by about 15mm as it sits just proud of the sliding
table.
20070804_006.jpg
Another thing to watch out for is to set the support rail far enough forward
of the saw blade so that the sliding table fence clears the blade, about 650mm
in my case.
All in all this has been a good mod for the tablesaw and even though I don't
expect to use it all the time, it has already come in useful.
It is as easy to take off as it was on the Triton and most importantly, the
motor compartment door still opens easily.
On to the next project!Last edited by Big Shed; 24th June 2017 at 07:57 PM.
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4th August 2007, 11:02 PM #4
G'day Big Shed,
That looks beaut.
Having thrown 4 x 2400x1200 18mm sheets of MDF through my 10HB which has meant of bit of grunt and roping the neigbour in to help, and even with the extra wing, an extension like yours, (albeit an adaption of Peter's mod to his 10HB) has put this up on the must do lists of mods to my /saw.
Sometimes you feel like you sepnd forever adapting stuff in your own shed just so that you can make stuff - at least that's how it feels like in my shed - which results in SWMBO saying when are you going to make something?
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6th August 2007, 10:14 AM #5Deceased
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Excellent adaptation to suit your TS. I like the way it is finished as well.
BTW did you also make a suitable spacer block so that you can use the fence on the sliding table.
Peter.
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6th August 2007, 10:17 AM #6
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6th August 2007, 10:54 AM #7
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6th August 2007, 11:04 AM #8
BS
Hold down clamps are available from McJing (look under toggle clamp - not hold dong (sic) clamp)Cheers
Jeremy
If it were done when 'tis done, then 'twere well it were done quickly
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6th August 2007, 11:08 AM #9
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6th August 2007, 11:10 AM #10
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8th August 2007, 11:37 PM #11Senior Member
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Fred, excellent work....how do you find the squareness of cuts...
I really disliked my maxi sliding table on the WC, I found that I was always having problems getting things square...one of the reason I decided to get a table saw.
With the extension wing and some outfeed tables I probably don't see an application for a sliding table...I still need to build a crosscut sled mind you....but with the table saw tips and tricks finally turning up its jigs etc are explained and drawn in a way that is easily understood by all (well me anyway!)
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8th August 2007, 11:59 PM #12
Have to admit I had some trepidation doing this, as I found the same thing, very hard to get a square cut on the Triton wiht the Maxi. Could be done, but always took some time setting up.
Imagine my surprise when the first cut I did after setting up was square! I then cut the 32mm thick extension wing to 1000x740 and it was dead-on square. So I'm keeping it, it is a lot easier to push big panels through the saw using the Maxi.
If it hadn't been a success, I would have put it on Ebay with the WC2000, after all, all I had to lose was some square tubing and a bit of work.
Haven't built a cross-cut sled yet, so far all cross-cutting has been done using my new Incra 1000SE mitre gauge. Brilliant!
Next jig will be a tenoning jig as I have to do some bridle joints.
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9th August 2007, 09:57 AM #13Deceased
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Probably setup problems, as the WC may not have been set up accurately.
I found that if the brackets holding the extension table arm were installed accurately, using a feeler gauge and shims if necessary, and the sliding table was square it will always cut accurately.
Most people I have seen that had problems with a Triton had never used a feeler gauge and steel ruler in set up but relied on a tape measure. No wonder they had problems for 1 mm or less can make the difference.
Peter.
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