Thread: Bill Mill reaches its limit

Good job Bob

Wish i had a mill like that. I wouldn't have wrecked the shoeoke i tried to mill free hand.

JAMC

nice log bob

fairly pale camphor thow and verry streight grain. i thaught one that size would be full of coulor.

what size saw are you running on that and what width of cut im sure i have read it befor but cant remember.

nice rails BTW

Jarrah, sorry to hear you had problems with the sheoak.

I don't like to use exaggerations, but this mill really is a "dream machine". I say this is because it is the one tool that I made that exceeded my expectations by a such long way. When I first started milling and made my first small mill, milling was a hot, dusty, smoky, sweaty activity and I would arrive at the end of the day completely knackered.

With this mill, when the chain is sharp and well set up, the wood not too hard, and there is enough slope on the log, the mill virtually glides down the log by itself. Get the wind behind your back to drive the smoke and dust away and it becomes an absolute pleasure to use. Given I have 1.5 bung shoulders I would not be able to do this any other way.

The hardest part of my day becomes moving the slabs around inside my drying shed.

Originally Posted by weisyboy

nice log bob

fairly pale camphor thow and verry streight grain. i thaught one that size would be full of coulor.

Thanks Carl. Yes I agree although we seem to get them like that out here. The log I'm cutting was from a near dead tree which might have something to do with it.

what size saw are you running on that and what width of cut im sure i have read it befor but cant remember.

nice rails BTW

Thanks Carl - They are pretty heavy so I hope I never have to carry them too far into the bush.

That's a 111cc 076, Sucks fuel like a new born, but just goes and goes and goes. It produces a fair bit of vibration which started giving me white finger on my trigger finger but gel padded gloves and a remote throttle has wiped that out.

Great work Bob.

Love the rails. The old timber ladder I'm using just isn't working out for me, so you have given me another great idea for a replacement. I prefer a big overhand at both ends though, to allow the bar to be clear before and after cutting whilst still supporting the mill, so I'd probably limit the log to around 2.4m for 3m rails.

how do u start your cut wiht no overhang?

RE: how do u start your cut wiht no overhang?
Good question.

Normally I use around 450mm of rail over hang at each end or, at least at the start. I place the mill onto the rails and start the powerhead on the rails

This log was 2.7 m long and so I only had 200 mm overhang at the start and 100 at the end.


"A" shows what it would be like starting normally. Trailing mill rail has nothing to perch on and making a cut parallel to the rails is hardwork holding the back of the mill up.

So this is where the adjustable central rail cross piece on the mill comes in handy.

I place the mill so the cross piece is on one of the rails as shown on "B". You don't need a lot of purchase or support just enough to hold the mill level.

Even though the initial stability triangle is smaller than "B" I prefer to start with "C" (because you are cutting less wood so it dives in very quickly and establishes a bigger stability triangle quickly) then to "D" (same reason as "C") and then to "B". This means you enter the log quickly and get support on the trailing rail very quickly.

NEXt time I buy rail material I will cut the 6 m section into 4 and 2 m lengths because I mill a lot of stuff around 3 m. One disadvantage of leaving the rails at full length is (they are bloody heavy and) if you put short logs on a decent slope the rails can touch the ground on the downslope end making it harder to get the mill out.

thanks for that bill. i have 4m and 2.4m rails made from treated pine.