Thread: what chainsaw mill you recommend for sheoak

The Husqvarna 395 and 394 are great saws in their own right, as I've had one for log ripping and as a Firewood saw for over 9 years. However, I built an Alaskan Mill and used a Near new Stihl 090 (137CC) with only a 25 inch bar on it to cut Tasmanian Blue Gum Sleepers, and I wouldnt reccomend anything less than the 090 for the job- it was backbreaking work compared to Breast Bench Sawmilling.

This is back breaking CS milling.


This is not.


This more upright stance makes it easier to use a CSM for much longer periods than would otherwise be possible for an overweight unfit lazy person like myself.

Note:
- remote MC throttle
- log is on a slight slope
- I am applying forward pressure with my knee or thigh onto the wrap handle

The hardest part is definitely not the milling - it's moving the slabs. Fortunately where I d most of my milling there is a forklift

thanks for the pictures Bob....makes it clear..........ruffly how much does that CSM setup cost ?

I've got a forklift to borrow next door. And there's tractors on farms.....

I ll take a dollar for those blokes thoughts behind the woman with the westford. Are you milling on welshpool rd in that first pic BobL .
Just when ya think better of some one they flap off at the mouth. Travis when Weisy started milling he charged $175 a cube , Sigidi with all his experence was carging a very valuble $200 a cube. Given the finacial pressure we all feel at times I ve no doubt out there that there is some one charging $150 a cube. My original business plan was to run a mill for $300 a day plus blade an fuel costs. Getting back to the original question but I d recomend the one your comfy with, last time I cheaked no chainsaw mill was tree spacific. If you can you might find some at Agquip being demoed. If not make one like BobLs

Originally Posted by itsposs

I ll take a dollar for those blokes thoughts behind the woman with the westford.

I can just imagine it.
Go on, have a go - it's easy - show them old guys that even a sheila can do it!

Are you milling on welshpool rd in that first pic BobL .

That place is in Bibra Lake.

Originally Posted by apricotripper

thanks for the pictures Bob....makes it clear..........ruffly how much does that CSM setup cost ?

My mill was made by yours truly with my BIL doing the ally welding.
The build is detailed here starting at post #125, and then here.

The cost of the first version of that (42") mill was $250 (the cost of the ally plus cartons for BIL). The first saw I had on that mill used an old 076 (cost $500) bar and chains cost ~$400.

The second version (the one in the pics above) cost an additional $65 for new 60" ally rails, ~$500 for the 60" bar and chains and $1400 for the 12 month old never used 880. The M/C throttle cost me $30 from a M/C wreckers. This mill is an absolute delight to use.

This mill is part ally (uses the ally rails from the first mill) and mainly steel I had laying around and cost me about $100 in bits and pieces.

It should be possible to make a basic mill using new SHS for under $100.

I've got a forklift to borrow next door. And there's tractors on farms.....

Even if you can just borrow it to set up the logs on a slope will be handy. Then mill the timber and just stack it next to the log. Then borrow the forklift again to move it where you want it. The hardest pat will still be moving the timber.

Originally Posted by itsposs

I ll take a dollar for those blokes thoughts behind the woman with the westford.

That's easy. Nice butt!

The log, the log.........

Regards
Paul

Originally Posted by BobL

Unfortunately I agree. I have milled small stuff with 50 and 70 cc saws but about a 90cc saw is the place to start for anything more that a few logs.




My reference on it (Forest trees of Oz) says the wood is very tough when seasoned.
Uses include cask heads, axe handles, shingles, turning and bullock yokes. It has a dry density of 710 kg/m^3 which is at the lower end of Rose Sheoak and suggests it won't be too hard.

Unfortunately we don't get River Oak (Casuarina cunninghamiana) on our side of Oz because I wouldn't mind giving it a try.

Keep the offcuts because it apparently makes an excellent firewood.

Oh yes we do Bob, Ive been given a 30m high tree that my neighbour just felled. Its in Roleystone. The one next to us is a tad over 35m and a meter wide at the base.
Id say the one I got is a max of 700mm and in 2m lengths.
Quite a few River Oaks have been planted around perth as verge trees and in gardens. They tend not to drop branches and fall over like our natives. They do drop a bucketload of needles and my garden is inundated twice a year.
The timber appears top be quite pale compared to Fraseriana.

I dont know If any-one else has mentioned that sheoak gets radial cracks very very quickly after being cut down so you need to coat the ends straight away and mill asap.

Originally Posted by hybridfiat

Oh yes we do Bob, Ive been given a 30m high tree that my neighbour just felled. Its in Roleystone. The one next to us is a tad over 35m and a meter wide at the base.
Id say the one I got is a max of 700mm and in 2m lengths.
Quite a few River Oaks have been planted around perth as verge trees and in gardens. They tend not to drop branches and fall over like our natives. They do drop a bucketload of needles and my garden is inundated twice a year.
The timber appears top be quite pale compared to Fraseriana.

Great - got any that you need milled?

Hi Bob, we are busy working on a Laidlaw mill to do these logs. Lots to fix up but the incentive is high. Thanks anyway.

Originally Posted by hybridfiat

we are busy working on a Laidlaw mill to do these logs. Lots to fix up but the incentive is high.

Hybridfiat

I have never met anybody else with a Laidlaw mill, at least not since my initial training and purchase. Which model do you have and what is the nature of the repairs/refurbishment?

Regards
Paul