Thread: Chainsawmill running really hot :-(

Originally Posted by BobL

I don't think they are that different compared to many other businesses or professions. When was the last time you ran across anyone that really knew anything about the products they sell or service? How about car dealers or even plumbers or even teachers. Maybe it's the dealers in your area or maybe it's just that with chain saws you know more than the average CS owner so you don't get the wool pulled over your eyes. For many years I kept up with the latest in IT and photographic gear and would cringe every time I was in a computer store hearing the BS being sprouted to newbies about cameras or computers. How about about in most hardware stores?

True, but recently I had to go into a full on debate about physics trying to explain to a reputable dealer that an 8 tooth sprocket will drive a chain faster than a 7 tooth sprocket and until I showed irrefutable proof that it is so, he was adament that a 7 would drive a chain faster than an 8. as for the digital photography thing I have had debates about that too with dickheads trying to tell me that every time you view a jpeg it reduces the resolution. Now anyone who has a modicum of knowledge about how a file is stored knows that the file remains the same regardless of how many times it is opened and unless some kind of physical change is made to the data it remains the same. As for hardware stores I go there and buy what i need not what the zitty teenager selling the product thinks he knows. in these modern days we all have the internet and can easily do the research required to make an educated decision on what we need or if what we have been told is true.

Originally Posted by Travis Edwards

True, but recently I had to go into a full on debate about physics trying to explain to a reputable dealer that an 8 tooth sprocket will drive a chain faster than a 7 tooth sprocket and until I showed irrefutable proof that it is so, he was adament that a 7 would drive a chain faster than an 8.

Yeah - been there done that!

as for the digital photography thing I have had debates about that too with dickheads trying to tell me that every time you view a jpeg it reduces the resolution. Now anyone who has a modicum of knowledge about how a file is stored knows that the file remains the same regardless of how many times it is opened and unless some kind of physical change is made to the data it remains the same.

And how about the . . "12 million megapixels in this camera madam" or the "new tetrabyte hard drives"!

As for hardware stores I go there and buy what i need not what the zitty teenager selling the product thinks he knows. in these modern days we all have the internet and can easily do the research required to make an educated decision on what we need or if what we have been told is true.

Hey I just realized this is my 6000th post - maybe I should shut up and go fix one of my saws!

Originally Posted by BobL

Yeah - been there done that!


And how about the . . "12 million megapixels in this camera madam" or the "new tetrabyte hard drives"!




Hey I just realized this is my 6000th post - maybe I should shut up and go fix one of my saws!

Happy 6000th ...lol

Didn't know saws needed fixing! i just put fuel and motor oil in mine, at 20 to 1, dont even bother sharpening mine...lol just wait till the teeth are half gone and throw the whole lot out.... call me montiee...lmfaro

Just joking, good night

I recently had to change the clutch shoes in my 076 so I just got the rattle gun on the nut & undid it, easy as. Changed them & did it back up with the rattle gun. That was six months ago & it hasn't come loose yet & I use it most days docking logs on the log dump. The rim sprocket will probably fly apart soon so I'll just use the rattle gun again when it does instead of taking it to the shop which I used to do before I had my workshop set up. I would find it hard to put anything down a sparkplug hole for fear of bending a rod or stuffing something expensive, as I have been known to tighten things up untill they strip, then back them off half a turn.
regards inter

Originally Posted by InterTD6

I recently had to change the clutch shoes in my 076 so I just got the rattle gun on the nut & undid it, easy as. Changed them & did it back up with the rattle gun. That was six months ago & it hasn't come loose yet & I use it most days docking logs on the log dump. The rim sprocket will probably fly apart soon so I'll just use the rattle gun again when it does instead of taking it to the shop which I used to do before I had my workshop set up. I would find it hard to put anything down a sparkplug hole for fear of bending a rod or stuffing something expensive, as I have been known to tighten things up untill they strip, then back them off half a turn.
regards inter

While cover plate nut comes off with just a spanner - and then you can easily get to the and replace the shoes, the clutch itself (and the sprocket) cannot be taken off with just a wrench, it needs a special tool or you can cobble one together. The clutch itself needs to be torqued to 75 Nm, I wouldn't recommend anyone doing this but with a rattle gun.

I cant remember how I got that triangular thingy undone, but it mustn't have been hard or I would remember swearing at it. I think I put a socket over it & used the rattle gun on it.
regards inter

I made this piston stop up a while back
Attachment 122496
It's the guts taken out of a spark plug with a tapped 10mm thread for the bolt. I ground the end of the bolt to give it a slight radius.

Not sure how much force is required to punch a hole thru the top of the piston but if we know the cosine rule and T=FxD then from that the least load placed on the top of the piston (when undoing the nut) happens at 1/2 piston travel (crank at 90° to cylinder)

What this means is if when using a piston stop like this the further away from TDC (but no further than 90°) (screw the bolt in all the way) the less likely u r of putting a hole in the piston

Peter

Good Idea Pete, gonna have to copy me that sometime!

While I have you guys on this thread...

Is the there any reasons why you would not want to mill with the top of the bar when milling?

One advantage would be that most of the oil is not getting flicked off the nose before it gets to the normal bottom cutting side.

I imagine ergonomics and safety may be issues but if the saw is mounted in a carriage (like mine) then why couldn't I cut with the top of the bar or even both sides?

Originally Posted by weaver

While I have you guys on this thread...

Is the there any reasons why you would not want to mill with the top of the bar when milling?

One advantage would be that most of the oil is not getting flicked off the nose before it gets to the normal bottom cutting side.

I imagine ergonomics and safety may be issues but if the saw is mounted in a carriage (like mine) then why couldn't I cut with the top of the bar or even both sides?

There is nothing to stop you milling safely with the other side of the bar and I do that on my minimill. The other advantage is that most of the sawdust is ejected at the nose on the other side of the operator.

The problem with doing this on most minimills is the saw will jump up off the beam or track.

On an alaskan, cutting with the top of the bar pushes the power head away from the log and unbalances the mill. The operator has to constantly fight against this unbalanced weight and it is just extra effort compared to when the saw is riding tucked up nice and close against the log and preferably on wheels.

Originally Posted by BobL

There is nothing to stop you milling safely with the other side of the bar and I do that on my minimill. The other advantage is that most of the sawdust is ejected at the nose on the other side of the operator.

The problem with doing this on most minimills is the saw will jump up off the beam or track.

On an alaskan, cutting with the top of the bar pushes the power head away from the log and unbalances the mill. The operator has to constantly fight against this unbalanced weight and it is just extra effort compared to when the saw is riding tucked up nice and close against the log and preferably on wheels.

So for my mill on a carriage it would be a good thing?

And if I was only cutting with the top I wouldn't need an auxiliary oiler?

Originally Posted by weaver

So for my mill on a carriage it would be a good thing?

And if I was only cutting with the top I wouldn't need an auxiliary oiler?

Try it, you have nothing to lose.

But a couple of things to think about when using the top of the bar;
- if you want to push the mill the operator has to stand on the other side of the saw with their crotch facing the sawdust exit. Even though most of the sawdust will come off at the nose it's unavoidable that some sawdust will still come out from under the clutch cover and spray onto you ie Not nice.
- Standing on the other side of the saw also means reaching over the saw to operate the throttle ie very hot and very uncomfortable - although easily fixed with a remote throttle.
- The operator can of course pull the mill - I've tried pulling it and I don't like it but you might find it OK. I do not push, I'm very lazy and pushing is just too much like hard work, all I do is lean on my mill like this.

- finally what about using a winch that gets you right away from the saw altogether? I've tried using a winch and don't like it. I like to be able to hear the cutting and feel and watch saw from close up, and be able to read the tacho and temp gauge, and stop the saw quickly if needed. But some people love it.
- on a 5ft bar on an 075 I'd DEFINITELY be using an aux oiler. In stock form the 075 only puts out 19 mL/min which I don't think is enough for a 3 ft bar let alone for a 5 footer. A big problem cutting with the top of the bar means any aux oil is completely wasted because the smaller drive sprocket will fling it off far more effectively than the bigger nose will. The alternative is to place the Aux oiler on the inboard side of the top of the bar but that loses cutting capacity.

Something that the guys a Hendersons said was that the nut should never come off because it should be self tightening. How is it possible that occasionally they do come off?

I know I said my saw is an 075 but it is actually a 076.

Originally Posted by weaver

Something that the guys a Hendersons said was that the nut should never come off because it should be self tightening. How is it possible that occasionally they do come off?

I know I said my saw is an 075 but it is actually a 076.

The 075/76 put out some serious vibes. The vibes depend on a whole lot of things, for example adding a mill changes the range and size of the vibes and if the vibes are greater than the self tightening capability of the nut it can still come off.