Thread: Chainsawmill running really hot :-(

cutting slowly?

is teh clutch buggerd? and slipping this heating up.

more likely the gasket is blowen and exhaust is blowign inot teh saw cavity.

this happend to my 034av not hard to replace.

1) Bar not parallel to mill rails
2) Chain too blunt
3) Rakers too high
4) Chain on he right way?
5) Mill bogging down on the side of the log

Does the CS cut properly off the mill?
If yes it will number 1)
If not it will be one of the others.

How much pushing are you doing? In pine there should be minimal pushing.

FOr a chain cutter diagnosis post a side on close up of one on your cutters that looks like this

Originally Posted by weisyboy

cutting slowly?

is teh clutch buggerd? and slipping this heating up.

more likely the gasket is blowen and exhaust is blowign inot teh saw cavity.

this happend to my 034av not hard to replace.

Cutting quite slowly, as in very.

Saw was serviced and stuff recently because something relatively major on it broke. Don't know what because the saw was my father in laws. Since he died I've hardly used it but I did have the .404 star sprocket changed to a 3/8 ring sprocket.

How do I tell if the gasket is blown? Run the saw with a regular bar and see if I have the same problem?

Also I'm halfway through its first cut on the mill so the teeth are still sharpened to 30 degrees rather 5.

Originally Posted by weaver

Cutting quite slowly, as in very.

Saw was serviced and stuff recently because something relatively major on it broke. Don't know what because the saw was my father in laws. Since he died I've hardly used it but I did have the .404 star sprocket changed to a 3/8 ring sprocket.

How do I tell if the gasket is blown? Run the saw with a regular bar and see if I have the same problem?

Also I'm halfway through its first cut on the mill so the teeth are still sharpened to 30 degrees rather 5.

First thing is to go try the saw out of the mill - then report back.

I'll bet it's the chain - it has to be RAZOR sharp with well set rakers or the motor will overheat. Post a pic of the chain.

I don't know which gasket carl is referring to to but I doubt it's the crankcase to cylinder gasket otherwise the saw would probably have seized by now. If it idles and free revs OK it's not the crankcase to cylinder gasket.

I assume you are using completely fresh mix?

Originally Posted by BobL

First thing is to go try the saw out of the mill - then report back.

I'll bet it's the chain - it has to be RAZOR sharp with well set rakers or the motor will overheat. Post a pic of the chain.

It is a brand new chain like I said first cut. Tomorrow I'll pull the saw out and try it cross cut. Mix is not completely fresh about a two weeks old.

Originally Posted by BobL

1) Bar not parallel to mill rails
2) Chain too blunt
3) Rakers too high
4) Chain on he right way?
5) Mill bogging down on the side of the log

Does the CS cut properly off the mill?
If yes it will number 1)
If not it will be one of the others.

How much pushing are you doing? In pine there should be minimal pushing.

FOr a chain cutter diagnosis post a side on close up of one on your cutters that looks like this

It isnt the bar getting hot bob, I would say that it could be to do with the clearance of chips/dust around the clutch/sprocket area but more likely what Carl said about the clutch slipping and overheating. If you pull the chain clear of the bar it will show the wear on the drive tangs of the chain and Bob or Myself should be able to diagnose whether the bar needs dressing. You also said it was a new chain. Is it also a new sprocket driving it? I have seen this cause problems and also I have seen the right pitch chain supplied but the tangs be 50 thou instead of 63 thou, slops around in the bar like a cock in a bucket...lol Personally I would be looking at the clutch.

Originally Posted by Travis Edwards

It isnt the bar getting hot bob, I would say that it could be to do with the clearance of chips/dust around the clutch/sprocket area but more likely what Carl said about the clutch slipping and overheating. If you pull the chain clear of the bar it will show the wear on the drive tangs of the chain and Bob or Myself should be able to diagnose whether the bar needs dressing. You also said it was a new chain. Is it also a new sprocket driving it? I have seen this cause problems and also I have seen the right pitch chain supplied but the tangs be 50 thou instead of 63 thou, slops around in the bar like a cock in a bucket...lol Personally I would be looking at the clutch.

Yeah - I read the post too quickly, I agree with carl and you - clutch. Unless its the chain brake but the 075 didn't have a chain brake, of maybe it's not an 075?

Originally Posted by weaver

Cutting quite slowly, as in very.

Saw was serviced and stuff recently because something relatively major on it broke. Don't know what because the saw was my father in laws. Since he died I've hardly used it but I did have the .404 star sprocket changed to a 3/8 ring sprocket.

How do I tell if the gasket is blown? Run the saw with a regular bar and see if I have the same problem?

Also I'm halfway through its first cut on the mill so the teeth are still sharpened to 30 degrees rather 5.

First up I would look at 10 or up to 15 degrees on the cutter especially if you plan on cutting hardwood at all not 5 deg , 5 deg may be alright if all you want to cut is that crud they call pinus radiata. If you changed the sprocket to 3/8 I hope that you haven't made the cardinal mistake of running 404 chain, Anyone on here should be able to tell from a few photos of the chain.

As for the gasket if that is the problem, and the saw has been kept relatively clean you should be able to see signs of blowby in the area of the blowout. I would seriously be looking at the clutch if all of the above check out. PING you got the sprocket changed!!!
maybe they did something wrong when they changed it and the clutch is not working properly because of it? what you think bob and carl?

Originally Posted by Travis Edwards

First up I would look at 10 or up to 15 degrees on the cutter especially if you plan on cutting hardwood at all not 5 deg , 5 deg may be alright if all you want to cut is that crud they call pinus radiata. If you changed the sprocket to 3/8 I hope that you haven't made the cardinal mistake of running 404 chain, Anyone on here should be able to tell from a few photos of the chain.

As for the gasket if that is the problem, and the saw has been kept relatively clean you should be able to see signs of blowby in the area of the blowout. I would seriously be looking at the clutch if all of the above check out. PING you got the sprocket changed!!!
maybe they did something wrong when they changed it and the clutch is not working properly because of it? what you think bob and carl?

I don't think it'll be the top plate filing angle - I have run 5º and even 0º without a problem and get a fantastic finish and it's only marginally slower than 10º.

He says he changed the sprocket to 3/8 and has a new chain so I assume he used the right one?

Like I said I would put the mill to one side and try the saw in some wood on its own.

An 075 should cut through crapiata like a knife through hot butter!

New chain is definitely 3/8 which is why I got the new sprocket.

Bar and chain were purchased off Sawchain. I used both for the first time today and I assume he has given me the right gauge for the bar.

Why would bar not being parallel to rails be a problem? Surely you can cut weather boards with a chainsaw mill?

But problem. The other bars that I have for saw were to take .404 chain. Am I correct in surmising that chains with matching gauges but different pitches can be used on the same bar? If so I can hopefully just make up another chain out of the roll of 3/8 chain if it matches the guage of the bar, yes? How do I check?

Anyway bed now tomorrow I'll try the saw off the mill if all goes well.

Originally Posted by weaver

Why would bar not being parallel to rails be a problem? Surely you can cut weather boards with a chainsaw mill?

Like this;

This happens mainly when the verticals are bent and the bar has to chew its way through the log at this horrible angle. I have exaggerated the degree of non-parallelism - this would not go far at all. It only has to be slightly out and it slows you down a lot and can eventuallu completely bog the mill to a standstill. But I don't think this is your problem.

The other bars that I have for saw were to take .404 chain. Am I correct in surmising that chains with matching gauges but different pitches can be used on the same bar?

yep

If so I can hopefully just make up another chain out of the roll of 3/8 chain if it matches the guage of the bar, yes? How do I check?

Measure the thickness of the drive links with a caliper.

Originally Posted by BobL

It only has to be slightly out and it slows you down a lot and can eventuallu completely bog the mill to a standstill. But I don't think this is your problem.

Right that makes more sense. How much is slightly?

Well I have found the problem.

I new it had gotten hot but not that hot.

When I took the clutch cover off the plate and nut just fell out.

Well I have found the problem.

Attachment 122306

I new it had gotten hot but not that hot.

When I took the clutch cover off the plate and nut just fell out.

Attachment 122307

Not stuffed I hope but I wouldn't know? How much does a new clutch cost?Attachment 122308