Thread: husky 3120xp for bobl

Originally Posted by BobL

It's gonna be tough . . . . .

OK - challenge time - how are we gonna explain the cuts and blood underneath the chaps and inside the boots?

Carl: "Man oh man, I'm chafing like crazy. I'd swear these chaps are cutting me"

Or, "Well I didn't want to ruin a perfectly good pair of chaps by letting the saw get them"

some guy sunk up and cut my leg from the back then he disappeared in a cloud of smoke.

Carl.
Tell em you've been working that hard that you've run out of sweat and it's blood coming out of the pores of ya skin.
Cheers.
Rob.

jus run 3 tanks of fuel out of my brand new 3120 / 1 1/2 cutting fire wood and 1 1/2 milling blugum with a 48inch bar could not believe the amount of #### inside the intake it was filthy . filter screw was still tight. is this how they are or have i got a serious problem or hav u got a secret fix i need to know about cheers for any help

Originally Posted by mjb71

jus run 3 tanks of fuel out of my brand new 3120 / 1 1/2 cutting fire wood and 1 1/2 milling blugum with a 48inch bar could not believe the amount of #### inside the intake it was filthy . filter screw was still tight. is this how they are or have i got a serious problem or hav u got a secret fix i need to know about cheers for any help

They do get dirty and some get dirtier than others - wiesyboy has a problem with his.

This is similar to what I get after a day of milling spotties on the 880.

teh filter on teh 3120 get filthy for ll tehre superior air filtration there is twice as mutch inside after a days work than the 40 yeard old 034.

Originally Posted by Sigidi

Be careful reversing Pete!!! Someone left a saw behind ya truck

ahaha, that brings back memories

Hi mjb, the bloke I got mine of suggested to put a smear of grease around the top and btm of the filter where it seats, I have been doing this and the carby intake does stay clean.
Peter

I'll second the grease around the top and bottom seating surfaces on the filter.
If you dont do this a lot of dust will get past.
I also spray my filters with the red 'Air Filter Spray' stuff, cant remember the brand, but the saw shops that I go into have it on the shelf.
I'll check the brand next time I'm in the shed.

Ironwood, What does the filter spray stuff do?

Originally Posted by pjt

Ironwood, What does the filter spray stuff do?

For the 076 I bought 2 additional filters and pre-oiled then and used to swap out filters during the day, but it didn't really seem to make any difference to what got past the filter and just made it harder to clean the filters. Because I mill mainly green timber I don't have a dust problem I find it easier to be able remove the filter and just tap off the excess dust on the outside and carry on. I wash the filter maybe after every 3 or 4 milling days. Maybe if I was cutting drier stuff things would be different?

Is it an oil to help the filters catch particles?

Originally Posted by pjt

Is it an oil to help the filters catch particles?

That's the theory but knowing something about how filters work they are not as good as you might think at capturing really fine dust. The advantage of oiled foam is they can capture more of the bigger and medium particles and hold them for longer than non oiled filters.

Oil impregnated filters rely on dust striking a filter fibre covered with oil to stick to the fibre. However, the vast majority of the really fine particles are carried along in the air flow and are deflected away from fibres by the air flow itself and so the oil is completely ineffective. Most of this really fine dust is not a big problem provided there is not too much of it, as the engine will just burn it up.

Large surface paper filters are superior to oiled foam for removing and holding lots of really really fine dust, that's what is used in HEPA filters. The gaps between the paper fibres can be made much much finer than is possible with foam. Unfortunately paper filters need to be quite large in surface area to get a decent air flow.

I love my 3120...it doesn't love me though.

I fixed the hot start problem with a carb kit...in the kit there are some small disk jet gallery plugs...for gods sake use all the kit plugs...one gives you access to the main jet which isn't adjustable.

My mate has the same saw and they both always seemed to run a little lean at the top end full throttle...believe me slabbing a full tank in 15 mins tests the jetting...and running 40:1 won't save a lean mix...so when I'm slabbing with the 70" bar I mix 25:1 now...cylinder kits are expensive!!!!

OIler is wound right out and copes with the 70" bar

I've since made a minor enlargement to the main jet with really good results...noticably more power...maybe that atmospheric conditions here are denser and tend towards richer/larger jetting.

Yeah the inboard sprocket is a pain in the a!

No problem with the pull cord....other than a little chunky to flip over...not sure that thats the cords fault though