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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    182

    Default Husky 390xp or 395xp?

    Folks I'm trying to decide which saw I need I've got a 372xp and a 3120xp. Looking for an in between saw for my tree lopping and firewood business. Any had a play on either? 395 is a bit heavier than the 390 but obviously has more grunt. Mainly going to be used for ringing up logs for firewood. All thoughts/comments welcome.

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    the sawdust factory, FNQ
    Posts
    1,051

    Default

    I've got a couple of 395's.
    One lives with a 28" bar, the other has a 34".
    All .404 chain.
    I lovesssss them!!!

    I've found the 395 to be a smooth runner, which matters if you swing on a saw for a whole day, and I've always liked the 90cc saws as the right mix of power and weight for the logs we cut. Theres enough grunt to handle the 28"/404 combination I use, and it will manage the 34"/404 combination without too much stress, though obviously its working pretty hard at that point. 34" and 3/8" whioch was how the first one came from factory seemed to be doing a lot easier but I hated having two different chain sizes in the bush so decided that for the couple logs of day where that size bar was justified I'd just hack away a little bit slower.
    Anytime I start thinking the 395 is too heavy I just lug one of my old 056's for awhile - everything is relative, right???

    I've had a really good run with them in terms of reliability, and the older of the pair has done a lot of work. It's about to draw a pension and I'll be replacing it with another 395.

    No experience with the 390 sorry.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Minbun, FNQ, Australia
    Age
    66
    Posts
    12,881

    Default

    I have one of the last 385XP saws.(model before the 395XP)
    It eats logs but it is heavy.
    3 tanks of fuel is about enough work out for one day for me.

    Only thing I have noticed is that it is very intolerant of old fuel when it is cold... it just refuses to start.
    Put fresh fuel in it, whammo, off & running & then you can feed it the older stuff all day long.

    I have also found that if it is to be stored without a run for a month or more, empty it out & run it out of fuel... it will be easier to start next time you need it.
    Cliff.
    If you find a post of mine that is missing a pic that you'd like to see, let me know & I'll see if I can find a copy.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    perth wa
    Posts
    16

    Default

    Get either one from the U.S.(ported :chainsaw: and they will RIP. that's what I should have done instead of my local 660

    Sent from my ST21a2 using Tapatalk

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Bouvard - Western Australia
    Posts
    325

    Default

    [QUOTE= I have also found that if it is to be stored without a run for a month or more, empty it out & run it out of fuel... it will be easier to start next time you need it.[/QUOTE]

    There is an additive that used for that problem.
    A much simpler way is to buy "Premium" fuel instead of "Unleaded".
    Both will overcome this problem.

    Just started my Husky 395 after a 3 month layoff, started first time as usual.

    HTH
    Col
    Chucks are like potato chips....you can't have just one.

    www.bouvardbush.com
    http://www.mandurahwoodturners.com/

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    24

    Default

    If i am going to keep the fuel for more than a week i try to get premium, 95 octane. The problem is a lot of fuel stations now only stock normal 91 and 98.
    I have found that the 98 burns to slowly and carbons up the plug and piston. So if i am using it all straight away standard unleaded (no ethanol).
    The saws don't need the higher octane.

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Nerang Queensland
    Age
    67
    Posts
    10,766

    Default

    I always use 98 fuel with the added long life stuff for all my chainsaws, never had a problem, but they are Stihls though
    Neil
    ____________________________________________
    Every day presents an opportunity to learn something new

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    the sawdust factory, FNQ
    Posts
    1,051

    Default

    I had a pretty smart guy who knows his business and buys a lot of saws from Huski (he runs a trainng organisation, they turn them over pretty quick) that he'd been told by Huski to shift to 33:1 if running 95/98 octane in summertime - this would be in Northern Australia.
    I tried it for a while - they needed to idle up a bit more when cold, but with a hot saw at lunchtime there was an improvement... I get a lot of vapourising issues with Huski or stihl under those type of conditions and there was a definate improvement there.

    But they arent that sensitive to fuel degrade anyway. I mean if you were putting it away for months its a smart idea to drain the tank and run it dry so the carby doesnt gum up... but there shouldnt be an issue other then that. Fuel degrades... but that dont mean it doesnt burn- just that the octane level progressively reduces so you get less power and a higher oil to fuel ratio. Just mix a fresh lot and mix it with the stale fuel and off you go.

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Minbun, FNQ, Australia
    Age
    66
    Posts
    12,881

    Default

    I'm in FNQ but I'm in the hills 870M above sea level so it is more of a temperate climate up here.

    We have a wood fired heater.

    I don't have any problems when it is hot, it just won't start from dead cold on old fuel.

    Once it has started & warmed up, it will run all day on old fuel.
    Cliff.
    If you find a post of mine that is missing a pic that you'd like to see, let me know & I'll see if I can find a copy.

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