Thread: Husqvarna 350 - bar bolts pulling through the case? What the?!

Not familiar with the Husky saw, but from experience, most saws I've handled have studs not bolts. So if it has studs, it would indicate that he has actually pulled the studs through the threads and depending on casing you may need to put some helicoils or inserts in.

Originally Posted by DJ's Timber

Not familiar with the Husky saw, but from experience, most saws I've handled have studs not bolts. So if it has studs, it would indicate that he has actually pulled the studs through the threads and depending on casing you may need to put some helicoils or inserts in.

Are helicoils and/or inserts readily available? I've not heard of them before, but they look ideal (from my Internet search just now...).

Are special tools required for this?

Yes they are readily available, most engineering/bearing/hydrualic places stock them and some auto shops as well.

If you were closer, I'd offer to look and insert one if needed as I have various sizes here.

No real speciality tools need, just a tap wrench but a small shifter would do the job with care

I know on my Husky the flat head bolts push in from inside the oil tank, rather annoying if they happen to slide back into the tank.

Originally Posted by shedbound

I know on my Husky the flat head bolts push in from inside the oil tank, rather annoying if they happen to slide back into the tank.

Hmmm, thanks for that. From what the shop were saying, it sounds like my saw might be the same (bolts in through the oil tank). Have you replaced your bar studs/bolts on your Husky?

Originally Posted by DJ's Timber

Yes they are readily available, most engineering/bearing/hydrualic places stock them and some auto shops as well.

If you were closer, I'd offer to look and insert one if needed as I have various sizes here.

No real speciality tools need, just a tap wrench but a small shifter would do the job with care

Thanks! I'll look into the helicoils.

Another member posted about his Husky, saying that his has flat-head type bolts that go in through the oil tank. I'll do some more research and strip the saw down to work it out...

yes I have replaced them, and also had them disappear into the oil tank, bit fiddly but can be done with a pair of pointnose pliers

Originally Posted by PhilthyMills

Thanks! I'll look into the helicoils.

Another member posted about his Husky, saying that his has flat-head type bolts that go in through the oil tank. I'll do some more research and strip the saw down to work it out...

No worries, would be good if you could take some pics and document the process to help anyone in the future to fix or avoid the same problem.

Originally Posted by shedbound

yes I have replaced them, and also had them disappear into the oil tank, bit fiddly but can be done with a pair of pointnose pliers

Thanks, that's good to know. Don't suppose you noticed if it was possible for the flat-headed bolts to pull through the casing?

If this IS what's happening to my saw, I'd be interested to know folks' suggestions for ensuring that the bar-studs/bolts remain in their right position.

What a great forum!

Originally Posted by PhilthyMills

If this IS what's happening to my saw, I'd be interested to know folks' suggestions for ensuring that the bar-studs/bolts remain in their right position.

Two suggestion I'd make to start off with, is to always hold the tip of the bar up when tightening the nuts as this places the bar in the correct position with the right tension and to just snug the bolts up with finger tension not full hand pressure.

I use my thumb on the socket and fingers on the wrench, if needed I'll take some pics to demonstrate what I mean.

From memory(i'll double check) the bolts heads should seat on a metal "plate"(for lack of the correct name) within the tank.
if you could take a few pics I might be more help. Are the nuts bottoming out before the bar is tight?

Originally Posted by shedbound

From memory(i'll double check) the bolts heads should seat on a metal "plate"(for lack of the correct name) within the tank.
if you could take a few pics I might be more help. Are the nuts bottoming out before the bar is tight?

Thanks for your reply!

I stripped the saw down today and cleaned it thoroughly. I removed the steel 'plate' cover on the clutch side, and noticed that only ONE of the bar bolts is the issue. It's the bolt toward the front of the saw.

It protrudes out 5mm-7mm further than the other bolt, and has pulled the casing plastic out a fraction as well. This has caused the SMALLEST of cracks in the plastic around the bolt, and this appears to be where the oil leak is.

So to answer your question - yes, the front bar bolt does bottom-out on the thread.

I'll try to take some pics tomorrow and post them, but not sure if my 'post status' will allow me to or not.

I'm not sure how I'll fix the small crack around the bar bolt; perhaps heat that section, push it back into shape (hardly any 'pushing' required)? Perhaps I could then re-drill the bolt hole in the case and insert a helicoil?...

Dunno, I'll have another look and ponder tomorrow...

But any thoughts or revelations would be fab'...

Originally Posted by DJ's Timber

Two suggestion I'd make to start off with, is to always hold the tip of the bar up when tightening the nuts as this places the bar in the correct position with the right tension and to just snug the bolts up with finger tension not full hand pressure.

I use my thumb on the socket and fingers on the wrench, if needed I'll take some pics to demonstrate what I mean.

Thanks DJ,
Silly question, but I'm assuming that after you've done the nuts up to finger tension and the bar is straight, that you're using your spark plug wrench to tighten it?...

Hi again, I checked on my saw, just empty the bar oil and visually inspect inside the oil tank. The rectangular bolt/stud heads should be seated into a metal c channel that is about 4 inches long, this is what stops the bolts rotating and pulling into the plastic when tightening the bar.