Thread: Resawing large flitches to recover a slab

fair enough.

I adjust my winches from inside the frame all the time -it's only a hassle when the tracks are right out to the limits, then I'm hard against the mill carriage when adjusting the one on the far end, otherwise if not cutting full length I bring the end frames in about 300mm from the end of the track, with the half depth extensions this gives me heaps of room to use the winches.

Mike, I've thought about the hi-low tracks - I like the idea of rolling in under a hi track and the open-ness (if that's a word) of the low track to tail out or stack timber, go for a pee whatever, but what I don't like is the carriage is then a big bloody box of metal and you can't adjust for tapered logs. Also what if the ground you need to set up on, is humped or worse still a bit dipped between endframes? your tracks are one straight un-moveable line between two points and mother nature isn't always nice enough to give us straight logs and level ground to work with

If I was only going to mill in one location and I could definately see the benefit behind a hi-low track

Originally Posted by Sigidi

I adjust my winches from inside the frame all the time -it's only a hassle when the tracks are right out to the limits, then I'm hard against the mill carriage when adjusting the one on the far end, otherwise if not cutting full length I bring the end frames in about 300mm from the end of the track, with the half depth extensions this gives me heaps of room to use the winches.

Maybe I better throw a couple of milk crates in the ute and try the inside height adjustment - or cut a few rounds on the job.

Originally Posted by Sigidi

Mike, I've thought about the hi-low tracks - I like the idea of rolling in under a hi track and the open-ness (if that's a word) of the low track to tail out or stack timber, go for a pee whatever, but what I don't like is the carriage is then a big bloody box of metal and you can't adjust for tapered logs. Also what if the ground you need to set up on, is humped or worse still a bit dipped between endframes? your tracks are one straight un-moveable line between two points and mother nature isn't always nice enough to give us straight logs and level ground to work with

If I was only going to mill in one location and I could definately see the benefit behind a hi-low track

Good points had not thought of that, the ground is hardly ever flat and or level and the logs are pretty much always tapered.

Originally Posted by Burnsy

Maybe I better throw a couple of milk crates in the ute and try the inside height adjustment - or cut a few rounds on the job.

Well, you always get at least one log which is a bit oversized and you can dock back....

Good points had not thought of that, the ground is hardly ever flat and or level and the logs are pretty much always tapered.

Yeah I'm full of those....


Just on all of this - how tall, or short are you Mike?

maybe you need one of these? I knocked one up from an offcut slab of SO, not my design, but quick, light and strong.......

Originally Posted by Sigidi

Just on all of this - how tall, or short are you Mike?

This tall...................
https://www.woodworkforums.com/attach...9&d=1241335946

5' 7" on a good day which looks about 5' when LOML is standing next to me in heels

90% of jobs i have a tailor so i dont haev to do any walking to wind 2 winches.

if im on my own i will wind form inside if i can reach but often it just dosent work out.

Hey Mike, I just realised - you is short mate!!

The crossbar on my endframes, I sometimes hit my head on the earmuffs when they hanging from it....

but short is good, you can keep ducking under the rials for much longer than me