Thread: Ripping Bench Advice

Originally Posted by Ravvin71

Thanks for the replies. The biggest problem I face with my setup is there is no mains power. The last power pole is about 9km away from my work area and I was quoted approx $17,000 to be connected, and I had to supply poles. I run a 5kva generator to power the equipment I use so I am limited to smaller gear. At least there are no neighbours to complain about noise.
I have a Stihl 026 with a 16" bar, so I will look at getting a pico chain for it. So far my slabs aren't too big. I'd love to get access to trees so big I couldn't handle the slabs alone.
A big bandsaw would be ideal, but unless they make a petrol one, I can't run it.
My intention with the saw bench was to make a sled arrangement on rollers that I place the slab on. The only bit not supported would be the edge on the far side of the blade which would be the actual board being cut off. Sort of a heavy duty version of those big table saws that they cut full sheets of ply on. The weight of the table isn't a problem. I don't intend to move it. I'll probably build it outside my shed anyway, and just roof over it.
When I do get slabs too big to move manually, I have access to a small tractor with tiltable forks. I don't intend this for mass production. I just want to be able to slice up my slabs while minimising loss. I try to keep my timber in as large a piece as possible untill I need it. It takes a lot longer to dry, but its easier than trying to stick smaller bits back together.
I've only had a look around the local retailers and 12" seems to be the biggest blade they stock. A few places said they could probably get larger but it would be a special order and much more expensive. Most of my slabs are 2" to 3" thick, but I want to be able to cut as deep as 5" just in case. As a thought, wouldn't it be possible to run the slab through with a 3" cut, then flip it and cut from the other side? A lot of man-handling, but surely possible? It will go through the thicknesser anyway, so a small amount of misalignment wouldnt hurt.

$17,000 that's a steal mate , the clowns in my area ETSA wanted $25,000 about six months ago , just to go about 50 metres . Cheers MM

BobL, you suggested using a 0.325 pico chain on my 026. My usual chainsaw dealer was unavailable so I went to 2 local dealers, one of which I had decided never to deal with again after receiving my saw back in a box, all in pieces, and being told nothing could be done. This same dealer told me that no, I didn't want Pico. It was an arborists chain, only good for pruning, where you needed a clean, tear-free cut. Well, that sounds just like what I wanted for my ripping also. He then told me that I really wanted a 3/8 low profile chain. As this would mean a new bar and sprocket also, I decided I would ask elsewhere. The next dealer told me that pico and low profile were the same thing. He could get me a pico chain, but they all used 50 thou drivelinks, so I would also need a new bar and sprocket. All I want is a narrow chain to rip with to minimise wastage. And I want to be able to use the same bar/sprocket combination to run a normal 30° semi-chisel chain for my limbing/cross-cutting. Do you have any suggestions, maybe with part numbers to beat them over the head with? Oh, and does $80 sound a bit rediculous for a 16" 0.325 bar?

Originally Posted by Ravvin71

This same dealer told me that no, I didn't want Pico. It was an arborists chain, only good for pruning, where you needed a clean, tear-free cut. Well, that sounds just like what I wanted for my ripping also. He then told me that I really wanted a 3/8 low profile chain. As this would mean a new bar and sprocket also, I decided I would ask elsewhere.

The dealer is correct in that picos are for pruning but who gives a fig a bout tear-free as the general variation and and lumps an bumps that occur when milling and worse still when drying will need to be taken out with a thicknesser anyway.

Dealers are not keen to sell it for milling and it is not a chain I would recommend to the average joe for milling either. Average joes or dumber generally mistreat their chainsaws, run them way too blunt and flog the pants off them, resulting in broken chains, burnt bars and abused saws. Pico requires some care and attention when used in milling.

The next dealer told me that pico and low profile were the same thing. He could get me a pico chain, but they all used 50 thou drivelinks, so I would also need a new bar and sprocket. All I want is a narrow chain to rip with to minimise wastage.

Although they are close to cutting the same kerf, pico and low profile are not the same. The situation is not helped by different chain manufacturers have slightly different names for these chains. Unfortunately you will need an 0.050" grooved bar to run the pico chains. There are low profile 3/8 chains that are slightly smaller than regular 3/8 but there is not much in it.

And I want to be able to use the same bar/sprocket combination to run a normal 30° semi-chisel chain for my limbing/cross-cutting.

That is perfectly understandable.

Do you have any suggestions, maybe with part numbers to beat them over the head with? Oh, and does $80 sound a bit rediculous for a 16" 0.325 bar?

That's about normal at most dealers but I recommend contacting forum member Sawchain and getting a price from him although by the time you throw in shipping it's going to be similar.

What groove size bar do you have at the moment?

Currently I have a Stihl 16" bar with 0.063 groove. I have a couple of near-new Windsor 63J chains, equivalent to the Stihl 26RM chain, going by the comparison chart. Its not a big deal if I have to get a new bar and sprocket. If you are changing a chain over, you only have a single circlip to remove to switch rim drives and the bar usually falls off when I take the side cover off anyway. I'd just hoped that I could use what I had, mainly to save having to cart doubles of everything around. I've already been caught with grabbing the wrong file to touch up the chain. I carry gear for my .404 chain for my milling saw, 3/8 for my bigger firewood/crosscut saw, and .325 gear for my little saw. I now colour code my files with a squirt of orange, yellow or white tree marking paint to match my saws' bars.
From your comments, I take it .050 size chains would be a bit light for regular firewood/cros-cutting?
I'll give Laurie a ring Monday. I dealt with him recently when I bought a couple of long bars off him for my mill. The local dealers would have to order in anything I want anyway, and they charged me freight the last time I bought from them, so Laurie's prices will still be competitave. Besides, I'd prefer to pay a bit more to get the correct parts that will do what I want, with knowledgeable advice from people who actually use the gear, rather than buy blind from people who just tell me that what I ask for isn't what I want because their book tells them so.

stihl 3/8lp chain and stihl pico chian are the same. the lp china has a kerf of about 4-5mm as aposed to 6-7mm. they dont make bars and sprockets to run this but u can get them i got them to fit my 034.

teh kit cost me $250 for a 25" bar sprocket and chain.

there is no way fo cutting a smaller kerf wiht teh gear you have i spent adges investagating.

the 026 should run .325 at current.

i have a 170 wiht the 3/8lp chian on it now it gets a floging cutting tops of posts andstay holes. i would have it on all my saws if i could.

the 3/8lp chain althow 3/8 it is slightly diferent pitch to regular 3/8 sowont run on teh same sprocket. and the drive link width is .50