Thread: Bleeding Timber

Sorry no. To add to your worries, paint sealed green wood rots like crazy. Acts as a very good moisture barrier and give the little bugs that destroy wood ample time to do their thing. This is why many councils no longer allow oregon to be used for structural parts of decks.

If the timber is dry and leached tannins into the primer you can probably simply keep going and hope that the undercoat has done enough to stop further leaching.

probably wouldn't happen with oil based paints.

Try talking to Mike at Kwilla Wash
Good bloke, good product, bit late for you perhaps but he may have some expert advice.

Gentlemen

Thanks for your comments. The timber is Ironbark and I am hoping it will have a better degree of resistence than the unbelievably stable, but insect susceptible Oregon. The timber had been cut for about four years and could probably be considered as air dried as the logs were small up to 250mm dia at the thick end.

The bad bit, which I have not let on so far, is that I cut the posts as boxed hearts. Simply put, I took a tree and squared it. I'll have to keep my fingers crossed on this one as the heart of most eucalypts is useless.

Now Bob, I am a great fan of oil based paints and hate water based (quite unreasonably) with a passion. I ONLY use oil based paint. I was disappointed with the result too.

I will try a second primer/undercoat before the top coat.

Thanks for your comments. Appreciated.

Regards

Paul

Paul,
I've had good results using oxalic acid. Apply, let stand, wash off, repeat. Washes out most of the tannin. Did you use a pink primer, or some sort of combination primer undercoat? Pink primer is the way to go, haven't ever seen anything bleed through it.

Mick

Mick

I might try the oxalic acid, although now the timber is painted I am not sure how restrospective treatment will go. My inclination was to use separate primer and undercoat but the sales assistant persuaded me I did not need that. Perhaps I am easily influenced. Same story as combined stain and varnish. They are rubbish.

I might even try dedicated primer over the top of what I have done.

Regards

Paul

Bob Thomas


My apologies to you. I have re read the BB rules and I was unknowingly and certainly unintentionally rude to you. That should have read

"I only use oil based paints."

Hope that was a tad quieter!

Regards

Paul

I didn't see anything wrong with your original comments.

Originally Posted by Bushmiller

Recently installed a post and rail fence with chain mesh infill. Against my better judgement, my wife said we would like to paint it to blend with the house as opposed to a natural oiled finish.

Problem is the Ironbark components have bled tanins through the only coat of paint so far applied which was a combined primer/undercoat. This is presumeably because the timber was still too green. Wattyl say there is nothing I can do until the tanins stop bleeding.

Anything I could have done prior to painting to alleviate the problem? (Academic question really) and is there anything I can do now besides wait or pull the fence out?

Hoping for a miracle cure.

Regards

Paul

Paul
Many years ago while still with QLD Forestry, we used 'silverfrost' as an undercoat for green timber that was to be used for posts, rails, signage etc. It seemed to work well particulary on timbers such as ironbark and tallowood which bleed a lot of tanins.

The bad bit, which I have not let on so far, is that I cut the posts as boxed hearts. Simply put, I took a tree and squared it. I'll have to keep my fingers crossed on this one as the heart of most eucalypts is useless.

The iron bark will hollow out after a while not much to worry about, could be slowed by capping the posts to stop water getting in. White ants will eat the hearts out when they start to rot. Sap will fall off if you left any on. Should last 40-60 years.

I have a little bit to catch up with here.

Bob

My comment on rudness related to the reference in the BB rules that using capitals is considered rude as it is tantamount to shouting. As a newcomer I did not wish to offend.

Bruce

Thanks for your silverfrost advice. I have seen it used on steel, but I am keeping all these snippets up my sleeve. May have to use all of them!

Aussicollector

Agreed about the hearts. Without giving too much away, the posts may well see me out. I also made up some caps (flattened pyramid shape to shed water) to resist water entry.


Regards

Paul