Thanks: 0
Likes: 0
Needs Pictures: 0
Picture(s) thanks: 0
Results 31 to 39 of 39
-
30th October 2008, 03:41 PM #31Hewer of wood
- Join Date
- Jan 2002
- Location
- Melbourne, Aus.
- Age
- 71
- Posts
- 12,746
Hmm, maybe after doing the CA thing, mark the extent of the split at both ends, wrap her in brown paper or several layers of newspaper and check daily.
Don't wrap in a plakky bag cos bluestain or mould are likely with such a wet piece.
The two lumps I've roughed show no splitting or checking; they have painted-on sealer on all end-grain and knots.
btw, did the wax 'take'; ie. is it clear or cloudy?
Added: and ditch the light method of drying. All other things equal, with really wet pieces the slower they dry the better. IMO parrafin wax on the end-grain of a roughed bowl still allows some moisture through which is OK as long as it's not that fast.Last edited by rsser; 30th October 2008 at 03:55 PM. Reason: Added
Cheers, Ern
-
30th October 2008 03:41 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
- Join Date
- Always
- Location
- Advertising world
- Age
- 2010
- Posts
- Many
-
30th October 2008, 05:29 PM #32
Drying cabinets work OK on small pieces such as pen-blanks 'cos they're small, generally don't combine both heart- & sap-wood and so are less likely to split, and are no great loss if they do disintegrate into a pile of splinters. (Hell, pen-turners can glue the splinters back together and still make a viable item - even if 'tis only a pen - out of 'em. )
Bowl blanks on t'other hand are far more likely to split, esp. if they include both heart- & sap-wood, and are hard to write off as "no great loss."
Ditch the light.
- Andy Mc
-
1st November 2008, 08:57 AM #33
-
4th April 2009, 08:36 PM #34Hewer of wood
- Join Date
- Jan 2002
- Location
- Melbourne, Aus.
- Age
- 71
- Posts
- 12,746
Thread resurrect ...
2 of the 4 rough turned pieces checked fairly deeply just off centre of the base. 1 was almost completely coated in wax.
Have just finish-turned one. Turned fine though the wood is resinous and clogged the s/paper pronto.
In the past only one piece of SO I've turned has polished well so this time I sealed it with n/c sanding sealer and then hit it with Ubeaut Shithot wax stik. This is hard wax designed for open-pored timbers like English Oak and Elm. Have used it once before on Elm and it was dead easy and gave a stunning finish.
Thought SO might respond well and it did, though it was hard to get it even. At a guess this might've been the result of the sealer but I can't be sure yet.
All things considered it's worth perservering with.
You just spin the piece and use the stick like crayon. Then rub hard with flannelette to melt and buff the wax. Good stuff.Cheers, Ern
-
21st April 2010, 02:20 PM #35Hewer of wood
- Join Date
- Jan 2002
- Location
- Melbourne, Aus.
- Age
- 71
- Posts
- 12,746
So it's about a year later now and it's been an interesting journey.
One roughed bowl covered in wax grew black mould under the wax.
Another turned green from start to finish developed bluestain almost overnight.
Three half logs that had had the pith removed, end grain carefully sealed and were stored under a silver tarp with some air movement were all cactus when I went to cut bowl blanks last week. Star shakes through the lot. B*gger.
Still there was no shortage of usable timber out of the haul. Still have a number of 4x4 spindle blanks and have found a check in only one.Cheers, Ern
-
21st April 2010, 05:43 PM #36
Seems tricky to get big bowl blanks out of anything. Must have a look at my half logs. They were end grain sealed, after cutting off the pith, but I can hardly say they've been carefully stored. Just chucked out the back at 's and forgotten about.
But good you've still Got something to work with.anne-maria.
Tea Lady
(White with none)
Follow my little workshop/gallery on facebook. things of clay and wood.
-
21st April 2010, 08:58 PM #37
The stuff I did here last year, I rough turned while it was soaking wet & then sprayed it with HiLite 80 to kill the mould.
They didn't go mouldy or split but they warped heaps.
Some of them will need to be carved to finish 'cos they are so bent that they can't be finished on the lathe.Cliff.
If you find a post of mine that is missing a pic that you'd like to see, let me know & I'll see if I can find a copy.
-
21st April 2010, 09:54 PM #38
-
22nd April 2010, 08:22 AM #39Hewer of wood
- Join Date
- Jan 2002
- Location
- Melbourne, Aus.
- Age
- 71
- Posts
- 12,746
P**p. Ah well, thanks for the warning.
Cheers, Ern
Similar Threads
-
Turning Green Wood
By Robbo1954 in forum WOODTURNING - GENERALReplies: 5Last Post: 8th August 2008, 04:27 PM -
Sheoke green turning??
By Jarrahrules in forum WOODTURNING - GENERALReplies: 18Last Post: 23rd May 2008, 09:42 PM -
Turning green Elm
By B-Daddy in forum WOODTURNING - GENERALReplies: 7Last Post: 27th December 2006, 11:27 AM -
green turning
By weisyboy in forum WOODTURNING - GENERALReplies: 15Last Post: 19th September 2006, 04:09 PM -
Turning green wood
By smidsy in forum WOODTURNING - GENERALReplies: 9Last Post: 31st August 2004, 01:24 PM