Thread: Lucked in with some Qld Maple!!

this is a job for a well set-up band saw. Provided your plank is not too warped, a skilled operator with a suitable saw should be able to slice 1/4" veneers off it without too much effort.

Don't forget that you will also need to laminate the underside of the top — but you can use something "dull and boring" on the underside.

Me, I'd start looking for a cabinet maker in the local area who would do the slicing for me.


ian

most smaller, say 10 ich table saw blades r aorund .5 to 1.0 mm thick...
bigger blades r obviously wider and tungsten tip style blades r usuaualy 1.8 mmm or so

so u gotta get the lines right and cut outside them i guess
u may also have ot take into account the need to joint or plane the edges even after bandsaw cutting..

cheeeeeeers

If you're bookmatching, the kerf needs to be as fine as possible, in order to preserve the best 'match'. The wider the cut, or the more you plane off to clean up saw marks, etc, the less perfect the match will be.
As advised, a well setup bandsaw in practised hands is your best bet. Failing that, get hold of a bowsaw and practice a bit, then go at it the old-fashioned way. If nothing else, you'll have firmer biceps at the end of the job!
Cheers,

Hi Rob,

Although far from expert, I use my 14" bandsaw quite regularly for resawing (up to 50mm wide) boards into as little as 2mm thick veneers; generally, though I try and stay around the 3 ~ 4 mm area is this is somewhat more forgiving of technique...

As the board you mentioned is 8" wide (i.e. around 200mm), without some judicious ripping first, this would need an 18"+ bandsaw (or a smaller one, perhaps, with a riser block).

As well, the board should first be joined on one edge and one face - so that one has some index faces to work from. If you try and resaw without a flat even face, held against a high fence, the resawn board will be all over the place...

As one new to WW, I'm assuming that you don't (yet!) have a bandsaw, so would suggest that you find a cabinet maker that will do this resawing for you.

Ideally, you should then use a thicknesser to get the resawn boards to the exact same thickness, then use a jointer hand-plane to get a close finish. Again, you may wish to have a joinery shop do this for you.

The boards can then be edge glued ( for some tips see :http://www.popularwoodworking.com/fe...21sidebar.html)

The next stage would be a smooth plane to get a near-perfect finish, followed by either a cabinet scraper or just by sanding (the former will show the grain much better though)

Cheers!