Thread: Timber Suggestions

Welcome to the forums!

So what is it you're building? That would probably impact the type of timber you use and if you could use a veneer, etc.

Cheers,
Af.

The idea came from a project featured on BetterHomes & Gardens, the 'funky book nook'. http://cosmos.bcst.yahoo.com/up/yaun...y7lifestyle&ch=

So as you can see, fairly large, but as mentioned, I will be making it to a size that fits through wooden doors.

Thanks

You should be able to get red cedar to suit. Easy to work and a heirloom product rather than something that may not last to the next generation.
When you provide the timber specification list, I'm sure you will get quotes.
Another option would be kauri pine, cheaper that red cedar, Tas myrtle price around the same as red cedar, but usually not available in as-wide bords, perhaps 200mm wide standard size.
Hardwood is cheaper again, but the piec may be too heavy.
Regards
Greg

Another kid used red cedar for a previous project, looks quite nice. In regards to the myrtle, if pieces are generally 200mm wide as standard, I suppose it will take a lot of work/time in just joining those pieces together.

Also, what sorts of finishes would people recommend? I am only familiar with lacquer, as thats what we use at school mostly, and stains. I'm contemplating a veneer of a vibrant-y coloured material if possible / if the wood I use isn'y already vibrant.

Yep, jointing will take a while for that project. You might also want to consider building it out of ply and then veneering a nice timber to it.

I haven't built anything quite like that before so perhaps some of the others might be able to provide some pros/cons to that option.

hey, i just finished my hsc wood project only a few weeks ago. i dont want to sound like a prick, but i dont think its the best idea for a hsc project. there is no joinery other than glue and screws. there is no turning, no carving, not much.

can i suggest you make something smaller, use quality timber ie jarrah, oak etc etc, which will cost under $200.. for a small project.

something i wish i would have made is a toolbox, im starting to make one now. another kid in my year did one and it turned out awesome, and it showed his skills with drawers, dovetails, inlay, routering, many more things. if you can check out this months woodsmith issue no.72 pg 24... this is a little simple, but if you complicated it with dovetails and inlay.. youd be set. thats my plans anyway.

..im not a teacher but for a hsc project.. you want to show how GOOD you are at woodworking.. to get the best marks.

thanks, shane

Ok. So according the the design it is based on, if made from MDF it would weigh about 120kg - HEAVY!! And it would use about 3.5 sheets of 18mm MDF. Also, I don't need to change/muck around with the size, as it is ~1900 x 1600 x something else smallish, i forgot.

So now I am just looking for a sutiable material, preferably LIGHT, especially so that the project won't weigh 120kg.




@ Afro: My teacher has brought that up, and I'm definitely considering it. Only problem is that plywood is harder to work with, and possibly heavier? But I will definitely be looking in to that.

@ shane: Thanks for the input. I have consulted my teacher though, and he is going to help me with 'complicating' it, through joints and that sort of thing, to 'show off' my woodworking skills.

Sounds good Powerb. Keep us all informed on your progress and the folks here lurve pictures so post plenty of them as you go through the project!

To "complicate" things, you could build some really nice dovetailed draws into those book nooks/squares. Pick one level and place a small draw at the bottom of each. In the (very bad) sketch below, you could perhaps have one draw in each nook (middle shelf), or even span the front of the draw panel across a number of nooks (top shelf). Personally, I think the top one would look nicer.

So ... it will be easy to "complicate"!

1) Nice picture! Would you mind telling me what program you use? I assume something expensive. Because if I could find it and use it, I could do a few sketches with that for the folio to go with the project, because at the moment I am going to have to learn to use 'Solid Edge', which is rather complicated (to me)

2) I like, i like! That would actually come in handy for me, storing little stuff, because I do tend to be rather messy!

I just scanned the image from the magazine of

1) The finished product
2) The cutting list with labelled diagram.

Google Sketch-up. It's free. Tooks me two shots before I "got it" but once you do, it's pretty easy to do up quick'ish sketches like that.

Enjoy!

Engineered and reconstituted product instead of solid wood...A sign of the times, I suppose.
mind you, making anything 600mm deep requires edge gluing / biscuit jointing or similar when using solids since timber rarer to source wider than 300mm nominal in sawn state.
I'm reluctant to use timber in width more than 4 times its thickness - stability issues. We can fight the laws of nature but seldom win.
Fancy specied veneer faced MDF available - Contact Briggs or Amerind for supply chain.

Tip - When screwing into edge of MDF sheet extremely important to pre drill holes.
MDF tends to
1) split and
2) if taking out and reinsertion of screws is consideration for life servicability) screw holding ability minimal when reinserting.
And make sure you wear a mask because of the formaldahide issues with MDF dust.

BTW> Lots of kitchen manufacturers have gone away from MDF and gone back to MR P/Board.

Q - I thought MDF was 860kg / m3 and not 680kg / m3 - Can someone confirm either way, please?

Good luck with project.

@ Offcuts: I'm not looking to use MDF if I don't have to. I would prefer a easy to work with (ish) timber, which is not heavy (or atleast not AS heavy as MDF), and also is aesthetically pelasing (although this isn't that important so long as I can veneer it)

If people have a timber they know that fits the above 'criteria', please, speak up

Cheers.

PS: Attached is a 1:10 scale drawing, minus the support poles and any adjustments (eg: drawers)