Thread: Warping Wood

Sgidi,

What you say makes sense. However, over a long length, what might apply at one end might not apply at the other. I have seen boards from the mill where the board twists at one end only. It also depends if the sawing process is run by skilled operators or run by a computer set to maximise yield rather than quality.

I would assume that forces inside the wood are influenced by its shape, (uniform roundness/ovalness), pipes in the centre, approaching branches (tension/compression in the trunk to support the weight) and possibly different growth rates in different parts of the tree. It is quite complex.

For the wood worker, it usually means you must buy more wood than you need. Let your wood aclimatise before you use it, plan your cutting (like you suggest) and similary for your thicknessing (evenly from both sides), stack it carefully with stickers off the floor (or on a rack) and use it as soon as possible and make sure you finish it both sides etc). If it curves when cutting, use it for shorter members in your work and if you have cut it wider like was suggested in an earlier post, you can always straighten it on the jointer or plane.

Finally, be prepared that some of your wood may not be useable for its intended purpose. (can always use it as simple craft items like bits for toys or simple woodturning)

Just my thoughts,

Chipman