Thread: Making a Box with Triton

IMHO, the bevel ripping guide is only practical if you plan on using it for angles other than 45° and I didn't buy one until I had the need. For cutting 45° edges, I simply made a jig out of 3mm(?) MDF sheet that was basically just an extension of the back of the fence.

I rarely use the guide although I still use the jig fairly often.

Similarly, I haven't bought the finger jointer as I thought a Gifkins dove-tail jig was better value instead. It works very nicely with the Triton router table and can handle finger-joints as well as dovetails.

Bruce, Check this Youtube video out:

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QTUS1OUWChU&feature=related[/media]

The bit that might most interest you is at about the 4 minute mark.

Thanks Guys,
Skew do you have any details of the jig you built. I haven't really used the back of the fence much what is the best way to get it to accurately cut 45 deg bevels. I also looked t cross cut mode but i don't trust my GMC saw to actually be at 45 deg when i set it there.

Here's a quick sketch of the basic thing. It's all made from scrap MDF & ply.

It was sized to hook over the fence (when it's flipped around backwards) and then simply clamped to the table top. If I were to make another I wouldn't bother with using the fence but the fence does make it simpler to set up square to the blade. There's also a 3rd triangular support in the middle of mine to beef it up and a thin slat along the bottom edge of the sloped panel that acts as a fence. I didn't include them in the sketch for simplicities sake.

For bevelling the short edge of long boards (as I think you want to do) I use it by simply clamping the piece to the top (making sure it's square, of course!) and sliding the whole jig along the fence.

I'll take a photo of the real thing later, but it'll have to wait until morning... I'm not going to go fossicking around in the shed at this time of night.

Just go into crosscut mode and tilt the saw to 45. You can cut the spline slots in the same manner.

There are better ways, but that doesn't need a jig. Or use a 45 degree chamfer router bit

Thanks Skew appreciate the sketch.

Stuart, I cant seem to get a square cut in cross cut mode, I have spend hours playing with it and when i check with square there is always a small gap. It drives me crazy so i don't use it in that mode I line up the stops at the mark shown and lift the corners as needed like the video say but it never seems to be square...It could also just be the saw. Its not the Triton one.

Hi

I agree with using a chamfer bit and the router table to get the 45 degree angle.

The best way to make the box is to build the top and bottom as one piece, then on the workcentre set the rip fence to the width of the lid. Set the height of the blade to just short of the thickness of the material. This will keep the box together. Once you have cut all sides use a stanley knife to cut through the last little bit. once the top and bottom are seperated clean the edges up.

This method ensures that the top and bottom are identical.

Mick

Thanks Guys,

I think I will head out to Bunnings and look for a chamfer bit, is there a limit the the thickess of board that this bit will cut at 45 deg.

Thanks
Bruce

Originally Posted by brucensal

Thanks Guys,
is there a limit the the thickess of board that this bit will cut at 45 deg
Bruce

Yes, this is governed by the depth of the chamfer bit. If your board is too thick for the bit, the board will end up with a flat edge either top or bottom at the end of the 45deg chamfer. Make sure your bit is deep enough for the thickness of timber you are working with. Maybe there is a way around this but I am not sure what it might be.

Thanks,

I will check the sizes out.

Bunnings usually have a pretty poor supply of router bits - mostly boxed 'sets' of low grade but expensive stuff. Mitre10 stores might have a better selection, but being franchises what they stock is often dictated by the manager's inclination/prejudices.

If you have one handy, try Carbatec - they should have CMT brand bits that suit - that's where I got mine.

Take a small piece of timber the same size as you want to chamfer with you as I have found guessing the size from memory is expensive

Mitre 10 generally stock Carbitool, so quality is unquestionable (and it's Aussie-made). Have a look at www.carbitool.com.au, find the bit you need (the site has a full online catalog, complete with all the relevant dimensions), and get your local M10 to order in the bit that you want, if they don't already stock it.

They are not cheap bits - expect to pay in the vicinity of $60 or so, but they have large chunks of quality carbide, and the amount of carbide is a significant impact on the price. Remember the real tool is not the router, or the router table, it is the router bit. The rest of it just makes it spin, so spending money to get a quality tool is money well spent.

While on the subject, check out my video review and writeup of the Carbitool Mitre Lock Bit. Might give you some ideas. It is effectively a 45 degree chamfer bit which also cuts a spline at the same time, providing about 75% more strength to the joint.

Disclaimer: I review a number of Carbitool bits, so my opinion might be influenced by that, and the fact that I tend to gravitate towards quality tools, particularly Aussie-made ones....

McJing is always a great option for router bits. Reasonable price, and pretty decent quality.

I just bought a 1 1/4" diam dish cutter bit for $28 plus $7 shipping yesterday. I paid by bank deposit, and item arrived by courier this morning... the item was probably shipped before they had the money... Excellent cust service.

Carbitool are pretty good too - one phone call and a Credit card and stuff just turns up!

Cheers,
Dave