Thread: height winder kit

Hi John;
I believe that the winder should be in the full 'up' position for alignment - works this way for me on my Mk3!

TTFN

Hi John,

I always have the saw unplugged and raised to full height (without over tightening the winder) before mounting the table top. And always, always, always ensure the chassis hook is inplace before setting the guard support and plugging it back in.

I'm thinking its more important to push the chasis as far back as the chassis hook will go, raising the blade as high as it will go, mounting the guard support about a centimeter to a half inch away from the blade and marking the table top where guard support runner is closest to the blade. And never mounting the gard support beyond this mark (as in never closer to the blade than this mark)

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Thanks,
Barry G. Sumpter
Proud Tritoneer
Triton Woodworkers Club Holmesglen



[This message has been edited by barrysumpter (edited 10 October 2002).]

While we are on the subject of height winders I am thinking about getting one for my Mk3. I suffer from slump and use the stableising bracket which I find I need to adjust whenever I adjust heights, otherwise it kicks the saw out of alignment.

With the height winder fitted, my guess is that the stableising bracket would not require further adjustment. Am I guessing right?

Can somebody confirm that I will also need to get a new saw chassis kit as well. Judging by the topic in late September, I think I do.

thanks, Jon

G'day Jon;
You're right about never having to adjust the stabiliser bracket again (unless you need to change the angle of the saw), and yes, you will need the new mounting plate.However, it's about the second best accessory you'll get for your Triton - the best is the sliding table!
One 'Beware' with a Mk3 - with mine I had to grind away some of the chassis to allow sufficient clearance for it to move fully down. My Mk3 has a very solid strengthening (I think) member across the underside of the table just where the back of the chassis wants to go. I can email you some photos if you wish...

Johnno

Does any know that the winder can cause alignment problems as well as loosing 2-3 mm of depth?

[This message has been edited by Alvin (edited 11 October 2002).]

Alvin;
As with most things Triton, I double check all settings every time I move or adjust any part of the equipment. I can't say that I've ever noticed any misalignment at various heights, and with a 9 1/4 inch saw (Makita)I've never noticed whether there is any loss of cutting depth!

TTFN, Johnno

I have had the height winder since it was released. As usual the plastic components are sometimes a bit light. I have made several mods to overcome failures.

1. The hex bar gets stuck and the winder handle comes off.

2. You strip out the internal plastic hex.

I have since replaced the winder hex bar with a drill attachment for screw driver bits in the red plastic handle. And I have inserted the correspondinding screw diver bit into the winder.

If you do this mode heat the pieces to insert them into the plastic as they are a tight fit. And you may need to enlarger the hole in the table to allow access. Also if you use your drill to speed up winding allows use the lowest torque setting.

Al

John,

In answer to your original question aout alignment. I found that you could mark the positions of the lugs furthest away from the switch end of the table and always they line up no matter which poistion the saw is wound to.

Greg

In regards to height. In table saw mode what is the maximum cutting depth you can achieve???

[This message has been edited by finnster (edited 30 October 2002).]

Finnster,

I get about 55mm only. A pain in the butt, but it is worth it for the ability to easily change the height.

Greg

So the height winder further reduces the depth of cut??
My saw cuts to 84mm hand held, in the tablesaw mode in the Triton it is reduced to 65mm, that is enough to lose already.
I had been thinking of getting a height winder, if it reduces the depth of cut to 55mm I would forget about it.
Chris.

Growl, How do you get 55mm? I can only get 40mm. What have I done wrong?

Remove the saw guard. Run the work piece thru once then simple flip the work piece end-to-end and run thru again.



------------------
Thanks,
Barry G. Sumpter
Proud Tritoneer
Triton Woodworkers Club Holmesglen

Thanks Barry but I'm aware about flipping the timber over. I mean that I can only get 40mm depth of cut on the first path and not 55.

[This message has been edited by Burf (edited 02 November 2002).]