Thread: Lock Mitre Router Bits

I am in the process of getting a Triton router (when my new garage is finished !) and I'm new at htis caper. I was told to initially get some cheaper router bits to practice on and they'd be OK for pine etc. I'm only going to get the Triton bits as I need them for a particular job and then only use them for certain projects. Anyway, check out ebay. I got a set of 24 which usually sold for around $100 - 120. The guy supplying them was a dealer and kept putting sets on ebay all the time. With a bit of patience, I picked some up for $61. They are much better value than what I've seen at Bunnies so chjeck it out.

After heading down the same advised route a while ago- of buying a cheap set of bits, then getting higher quality bits as I needed them, I have now come to the conclusion that this is not the best way to go.

The money spent on the first set would have bought 1 decent bit, and that first set hasn't been used for over a year now.

The difference in the finish is substantial, and so my advice is now- don't buy a cheap set. Get a couple of decent quality router bits, and as you need/can afford to add another one, do so.

Other than Triton, there is a number of high quality ranges available, and you won't find them at Bunnies. And not to put a negative spin on the Triton range, but it is EXTREMELY limited. Hopefully it won't always be that way, but in the meantime, have a look at some of the other ranges out there- you'll be amazed what you can do with a router.

I have a CMT lock mitre bit (Carbatec) suitable for 12-28mm. It realy isnt suitable for much less than 16mm. You have to be precise in your setting up, and because you are mostly routing end grain you have to get your speed correct, bearing in mind that you are spinning a fair lump of metal.
Once you get things right save a couple of cut pieces to use as templates for each thickness you use. Saves a lot of time. I have'nt had any success using it on ply myself.
Basicly this bit can be very frustrating untill you get the hang of it, and then you will produce some of the best mitre joints you will ever see.
rots of ruck
Regards
Termite :confused:

Ply (and MDF & particle board) eat expensive carbide bits. It has to do with the resin glues used to hold the wood plys together, and the misc. c**p that gets in the MDF etc. Somewhere I read a set of hints that suggested mitre trimming the sheet goods to reduce wear on the lock bit - take a look at what you are going to remove with the bit - you can cut a partial 45 mitre with the mitre guide, then run the thing thru' the router bit (which is why Triton sell a router table stand - so you don't have to swap things around).

Doing the test cuts & keeping a set that work is a MUST, unless you are a very sick masochist.

You can also use biscuit joints on mitres (see Triton demo tape for their biscuit joiner, or use a hand held one - I've got both) and several Yank 'experts' proclaim that modern glues will hold the whole thing together without fancy joints, just a 45 mitre, sticky-tape the outside, glue and fold it together............

I suppose you pays your money & take your chances - I've got CMT, Carb-i-Tec, Lee Valley, Rockler, Timbecon and few no-name bits in my box o' bits.

Ply (and MDF & particle board) eat expensive carbide bits. It has to do with the resin glues used to hold the wood plys together, and the misc. c**p that gets in the MDF etc. Somewhere I read a set of hints that suggested mitre trimming the sheet goods to reduce wear on the lock bit - take a look at what you are going to remove with the bit - you can cut a partial 45 mitre with the mitre guide, then run the thing thru' the router bit (which is why Triton sell a router table stand - so you don't have to swap things around).

Doing the test cuts & keeping a set that work is a MUST, unless you are a very sick masochist.

You can also use biscuit joints on mitres (see Triton demo tape for their biscuit joiner, or use a hand held one - I've got both) and several Yank 'experts' proclaim that modern glues will hold the whole thing together without fancy joints, just a 45 mitre, sticky-tape the outside, glue and fold it together............

I suppose you pays your money & take your chances - I've got CMT, Carb-i-Tec, Lee Valley, Rockler, Timbecon and few no-name bits in my box o' bits.

Have a look at Linbide (sp?) bits- made in NZ, available from Woodworking Warehouse among others

I have a mitre lock bit from McJing at Yarawonga. It is the small one. I use this for small boxes down to 12mm thick reclaimed SE Asian hardwood pallet material. I use this also for jointing planks of 12mm x 90mm planks together flat for sliding lids.
I agree with others who have highlighted the need to keep templates of the commonly used wood thicknesses you use, as set up can be a time consuming trial and error process. I use this in a triton router in conjunction with an incra jig, this gives micro adjust of both X&Y axis.

It has stood up well and I feel I could recomend this to others. I have also found McJing very prompt in their mail order service.

Just my two cents worth.

Lew

Lew, I'm not sure about McJing being at the town you mention but just in case anyone wants to locate them I do know they are at Yagoona (a Sydney suburb). A good source of HSS cutter blanks, among other stuff.
Regards,
Alan

Sorry, your right . I don't know what came over me!
I have also bought some solid carbide cutters, !/2" 3/8" 1/4" for my box joints. these have worked a treat. I dont like their reducing collets. as these are machined and do not flex enough to grip the cutters under heavy load. I use an alternative collet.

Lew