Rta300

**DPB** · 20th May 2006, 08:38 PM

Barry, judging from your picture, you will be working your timber along the 1200mm length of the top. Is this correct?

The distance between the router bit and the fence will be a sub-division of the 600mm distance. Assuming that your bit comes up in the centre of the table front to back along the 600mm plane, it would be 300mm less the aprox 100mm depth of the fence. This doesn't leave a lot of table room between the bit and fence.

At first I balked at the idea of running the timber through the narrow plane of the table, but considering that I'm specialising in small boxes, it's not really much of a disadvantage. I haven't thought of a hinged top, but this might be a simple solution for those times I needed a longer run off the table. Then again, so would my Triton Multi-Stand.

**BarryBurgess** · 20th May 2006, 10:43 PM

"At present the thinking is to make the top 900mm to 1000mm deep with 300mm or 400mm hinged so that it can be dropped when not in use"
DPB I am not going to use the WC stand but have made a cabinet from birch ply.
I want to make the depth of the top 900mm or 1000mm to overcome the problems that you raised. I want the option of being able to drop the back bit of the table so that it does not pertrude too much into the workshop when not in use or just the Triton fence is in use.
Hope this makes it clearer.
Barry

**BarryBurgess** · 24th May 2006, 04:12 AM

DPB
Can you give me the spec's of your "engineered top"
Thanks
barry

**DPB** · 24th May 2006, 09:59 AM

Barry, the top is 31mm thick. It was purchased from Professional Woodworkers Supplies. It is made up of alternate layers of MDF and Tempered Masonite, nine in total, with Masonite on both outer surfaces.

The thumbnail below shows the dimensions of the top and the layout of the mitre track, phenolic plate opening and the two t-tracks. It also shows the top in relation to the Triton stand.

I acknowledge Grahame Waterson of Professional Woodworkers Supplies for producing this drawing. www.woodworksupplies.com.au

**BarryBurgess** · 24th May 2006, 03:57 PM

DPB thanks for the info. I have another question. You are using the Woodpecker phenolic router insert and I want to know if you are using the Triton router as I have been told that the phenolic insert will not handle the weight of the router and I would have to use the Woodpecker Cast Aluminum Router Plate?
Thanks
Barry

**DPB** · 24th May 2006, 04:22 PM

Yes, I am using the Triton Router. I was unaware of the weight of the router causing problems with the Phenolic plate. I will speak with the supplier about this, but I so far, I cannot see any deflection of the plate.

**Gwhat** · 27th May 2006, 03:36 PM

Originally Posted by BarryBurgess

DPB thanks for the info. I have another question. You are using the Woodpecker phenolic router insert and I want to know if you are using the Triton router as I have been told that the phenolic insert will not handle the weight of the router and I would have to use the Woodpecker Cast Aluminum Router Plate?
Thanks
Barry

Barry we sell heaps of Phenolic plates and I estimate 80% of them end up carrying a Triton router, with no recorded failures.

Phenolic is a thermosetting plastic that will not sag under heat etc. however, some plates, made from Thermoplastics, those that can effectively be re-melted (Acrylic, Polycarbonate etc.) will sag with the weight of the router in a warm environment. Some sales guys don't realise this important point and put all plastics into the one category.

Regards

The Woodworker

**BarryBurgess** · 27th May 2006, 04:25 PM

Thanks Gwhat that will save me a few bucks

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