Thread: WC2000 frame possibly skewed

Yup. Admittedly my "skewedness" was my own fault (think "work ute, leaving pub, heading wrong way, hand-brake turn" and you'll get the picture. )

The solution? You've already put your finger on the basics.

I'm lazy. I simply loosened up the bits'n'pieces, measured the top frame diagonals from outside corner to outside corner and then tweak/twisted things until they were equal lengths. Tightened it all up, remeasured the diagonals to double-check and finally back to the pub, job done!

Haha awesome way to put it. The measuring part was what had me stumped, I should have thought of that.

In other news, that was the first real work I've done on the WC, the cuts had to be accurate since I'm cutting up fretboards - about 7mm thickness. Very impressed with the smooth edges the blade left. I'm now thinking about selling the Triton Router Table which I got for jointing, since the saw just gave me a cut that may actually be TOO smooth to use for gluing. On'ya Triton, and thanks Skew

Wouldn't hurt to also check that the circular saw is sitting parallel to the table & fence as well

Yep that side of it's all good. I haven't had a kickback yet, but I'm a bit shaky about one nonetheless so I measured everything before I started. Only problem I have is the riving knife always needing a small pull to the right to line up, but other than that, dead on. I'll post tomorrow on how I go with the squaring up - too many beers in me to trouble with it tonight. Thanks for the replies so far!

Undo and refasten the two clips that hold the top of the WC to the sides. When clipping them in make sure that click in square. I find that one end comes loose occasionally resulting in exactly what you are describing.

Carry Pine

I did some measuring on the frame, and it seems at the most to be only 1/2 a MM out. I measured up the blade against the fence and got that nearly dead on, wasn't far out.. but here's the kicker - I've only just discovered the locking mechanism in the table. I must have overlooked that when I was setting it all up, and I wondered about it. I'm about to go start cutting up the wood for a guitar neck so I'll report back.

Right.. well the table is stable now, but still no dice on the skew. I can't find anything out in the table, so when I get back down tomorrow I'll check to see if the Circular Saw is on an angle. Had some really nice cuts going through some maple just now, but that's with the front set 1mm closer than the back.

To be continued...

If the cuts are good, then the blade and fence are aligned well.

You are getting jammed between the riving knife and fence. This means that the blade is too far to the right.

May need to swap your rip fence arms to 61mm ones. These will be a free replacement from Triton. You will have to re-set your saw to the new alignment, however the new saw location will be 1mm to the left.

This should alleviate your problem.

Steve

put a straight edge down each side of the blade. That will show if the riving knife is lined up.
Reading your description it might be that the balde isn't paralell to eth fence.
I think it was either Stu or Sturdee I think that had the solution of set the fence to 100 mm F and R and measure from fence to the same tooth. Use feeler gauges to make teh adjustment. I can't recalll which post it was but it was only in the last few weeks.

Yep, it looks at this stage like the riving knife.. I can't find anything out of whack with the frame, blade, fence etc. I've tried pulling the thing into line, and it goes good for a cut or two, but goes back. Looks like the runner block in the mitre channel doesn't seat tight enough to allow my adjustments to be final. Thanks for the input guys, I'm glad to have the problem narrowed down. Found a heap of good threads from searching, so I should be able to sort it from here.

Steve, could you explain a little more about the 61mm rip fence arms? I'm not following you on that one, you're talking about the arms with the ruler on them?