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Thread: Block plane advice
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6th August 2010, 02:35 PM #1
Block plane advice
I currently have a Stanley 220 which I find a little agricultural but handy for some rough work and a Veritas LA block which performs above my skill level but I find too wide and heavy when using for long periods.
So the question is do I go for a Veritas Apron or the new DX60. I think I have discounted the LN, it would be nice in bronze but I wonder about it. I've read the write ups on the HNT but for the sort of work I do I think a woody would suffer wear on the sole.
I'm leaning towards the Veritas apron but was interested in any comments on it.
ThanksMike
"Working to a rigidly defined method of doubt and uncertainty"
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6th August 2010 02:35 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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6th August 2010, 03:52 PM #2
THe LN are very heavy so I don't think thats what you're after. Maybe something like a violin makers plane.
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6th August 2010, 04:01 PM #3
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6th August 2010, 04:13 PM #4
I have a Millers Falls 57, similar to a 220 but far better made with a LN A2 blade light but works a treat
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6th August 2010, 04:47 PM #5
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6th August 2010, 04:54 PM #6SENIOR MEMBER
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hi mike.
i have the veritas nx-60 and she is a ripper!
beautiful weight, it just glides through hardwood.
i would highly recommend the veritas dx-60.
justin.
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6th August 2010, 05:09 PM #7
The Veritas DX-60 is next on my shopping list. I'm just putting together another order to Lee Valley (U.S) while the exchange rate is good.
I'll grab an extra blade for it to grind at a higher angle, then I'll have both low-angle and standard-angle block planes covered.
Not sure I'd go for a non-adjustable mouth with my primary block plane, but the LN103 (bronze) is supposed to be nice for a fixed mouth block plane.
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6th August 2010, 07:22 PM #8
Depending on how much are are allowed?? The NX 60 is lovely, too nice to use mine's still in the box, but the good old work horse that has been doing me proud for 20 years or so and which I recommend to all my students in the Stanley 12-060 low angle adjustable mouth 6 1/4" Around the 160.00 new or less if you score a good one on eBay.
Cheers
SteveDiscover your Passion and Patience follows.
www.fineboxes.com.au
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6th August 2010, 08:32 PM #9SENIOR MEMBER
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Have you actually held the LV apron plane ? I looked at one (white gloves, salesman's attitude and all at Carbatec !!!!!!) and it's tiny. Also surprisingly heavy for it's size I thought.
Whether or not this is a good thing is hard to tell without using one but my advice is dont buy online without seeing it in the flesh.
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6th August 2010, 08:48 PM #10Mike
"Working to a rigidly defined method of doubt and uncertainty"
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6th August 2010, 09:45 PM #11
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7th August 2010, 11:26 AM #12
The NX-60 is too shiny to use under normal conditions.....it can only be brought out on dull overcast days...... Lucky bugger !
A well-fettled OLD Stanley block lane would be fine - talk to Jim Davey if you don't feel like doing one up yourself.
Whatever you do, DON'T buy a current production Stanley or Record block plane....
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7th August 2010, 01:05 PM #13
You did not mention what type of work you are doing, but, before you rule out the wooden plane, consider that it is very easy to fix / replace the sole. I have a Krenov style block plane I made from Kwila with a Brushbox sole and a Ron Hock 01 steel blade. Even on end grain it will cut a very fine shaving. This block plane is about the same weight as the LV apron but could easily be made 30% lighter if weight is an important criteria for you.
Additionally it is very pleasurable work making your own plane.
Regards
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7th August 2010, 01:13 PM #14Mike
"Working to a rigidly defined method of doubt and uncertainty"
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7th August 2010, 02:01 PM #15
Mike
I don't use epoxy very often, but when I do, I use a " Sandvick " paint scraper with a carbide blade to take off the dags and thicker squeeze out, then a plane. However, working as you are, would pulling a plane permit you to use more leg muscle? in which case Terry Gordons Palm Smoothing Plane may be a good option, after scrapping off the dags. I would suggest having a chat with Terry as he may have a suggestion on the best type of wood in the plane sole, and steel for the blade.
Regards
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