Thread: why do block planes have the bevel up?

Originally Posted by Bleedin Thumb

This is very unfriendly on woodies as it tends to put a groove down the centre of the sole.

I DISCOVERED THAT when trimming a whisker of some laminate with my little Muji block plane
Thankfully I have another two and will use the 'grooved' plane for rough jobs (which I am expert at )

Why do metal block planes have the bevel up?

Because its cheaper....... there are probaly other reasons and manufacturers claims but.
Bevel up means less parts and thats much cheaper, and in the hey day of hand planes that was what it was all about.

Any of the small cheap block planes had 4 parts, body, blade, cap iron, clamp screw. How many parts in a #4.... I count 23.

remember some of the chaepest nastiest junk planes are block planes.

cheers

Originally Posted by soundman

Any of the small cheap block planes had 4 parts
cheers

Make that 5, I forgot the pivot pin.

cheers

I think it's a combination of things, but Jake has a reasonable reason with the planes being compact with the bevel up.

The 'block' planes here are all wood, but easy used one handed. I think that's a kinda pre-requisite for a proper block plane, one handed operation. For me anyways...

On woodies, I like them alot, aside from the attention they constantly need. Weather makes them twist (older ones don't move quite so much), the sole does wear over time and they need to be looked after otherwise they become ratty.

Metal planes need attention to corrosion but that's easy enough to stop, and easy enough to correct/repair when it does strike.

In use, a woody is almost always an easier creature to use.

Case in point:

I have a Bedrock #6, very nice plane and I use it often. I think it's a great size since it flattens better than a #5 or smaller, and can also joint a straight edge pretty quickly.

I also have a 29" woody jointer I made up. Enormous thing, heavier than the #606, effectively a simple thing when comapred to the Bedrock.

In use, the #606 is not easy to push about unless it's waxed, it can chatter occasionally (if I get lazy and don't use it right!) and it's a little complicated which works, but can be a hinderance.

The woody is much longer, slightly heavier but it floats on the wood. I do have to be careful that I don't send it flying after pushing the unwaxed #606 the difference in effort is so great. The thing never chatters, even with a comparatively thin blade and once you get the hang of hammer adjusting, it's easy to adjust.


I'd love a #8 for jointing, since it would always be flat (unlike the woody) but I sure as heck won't be without the woody jointer when lots of work needs to be done.


I'll take either myself, with preferences to metal or wood when it makes sense.