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  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    The Hague Netherlands
    Posts
    42

    Default anybody got carbide blanks?/scraper making

    I have been trying to scrape a plane sole
    flat with a HSS scraper.

    The da... thing needs to be sharpened
    every couple of minutes. Add the fact
    that I am not really good in scraping, and
    this makes it really boring.

    Funds are really thight right now, so I can't
    buy a carbide scraper.

    The cheapest option would be just 2 carbide blanks.
    One for some rough scraping and the other for more fine
    work.

    I am not sure whether that means the blanks
    should have different widths or a different
    radius is only required.

    I can't shapen it because I don't have a diamond
    or green carbide wheel.

    I do have a 2sided diamond honing stone which
    is not in the greatest shape.

    If anybody can sell me 2 carbide blanks for a small
    price, please let me know. Or perhaps somebody can
    make 2 scrapers for a reasonable price, that would be
    even better.

    It's frustrating they sell these scraper with a piece of
    carbide worth 5 dollars or so(I am guessing) for like
    50-100 dollars.

    Thank you.

    Sazman

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    191

    Default

    Hi Sazman,

    Tough question there hopefully one of the other forumites will let us in non a source for carbide bits. I did see them on the sandvik coromant website, but have not emailed them to find local resellers of the scrapers and carbide bits as of yet.

    I wonder if you could find some A2 tool steel or something almost as hard from a local metal fabricators?

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    5,015

    Default

    Ern (rsser) had one for sale a while ago, not sure if it sold. Also Gregoryq may have some carbide blanks. Don't be tempted to use a green wheel it chips TCT and gives a horrible finish to your scraping. Stick with the diamond honing plate for the time being. I have had some soles that dulled the TCT very quickly too not much your can do about it. But if you are not applying enough pressure then little material will be removed between sharpenings and you're just dulling the scraper. Where you have lots of material to remove err on the side of too much pressure. They say for beginners one of the hardest things is being agressive enough, it was certainly my experience in the beginning. What are you using for a surface plate?

    Cheers
    Michael
    memento mori

  5. #4
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    The Hague Netherlands
    Posts
    42

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by simonmags View Post
    Hi Sazman,

    Tough question there hopefully one of the other forumites will let us in non a source for carbide bits. I did see them on the sandvik coromant website, but have not emailed them to find local resellers of the scrapers and carbide bits as of yet.

    I wonder if you could find some A2 tool steel or something almost as hard from a local metal fabricators?
    Hi Simon,

    I am already using HSS steel which is harder than A2 steel as
    far as I know.

    Thanx for the reply

  6. #5
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    The Hague Netherlands
    Posts
    42

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by mic-d View Post
    Ern (rsser) had one for sale a while ago, not sure if it sold. Also Gregoryq may have some carbide blanks. Don't be tempted to use a green wheel it chips TCT and gives a horrible finish to your scraping. Stick with the diamond honing plate for the time being. I have had some soles that dulled the TCT very quickly too not much your can do about it. But if you are not applying enough pressure then little material will be removed between sharpenings and you're just dulling the scraper. Where you have lots of material to remove err on the side of too much pressure. They say for beginners one of the hardest things is being agressive enough, it was certainly my experience in the beginning. What are you using for a surface plate?

    Cheers
    Michael
    Hi Michael.

    I use a granite surface plate as reference. Accuracy I think was
    7 micron or so. The plate is 85cm long, 7cm thick and 17cm wide.

    Ern was selling the scraper in combination with diamond paste
    and a wheel and few things more. I basically only need to TCT
    tips.

    Hope somebody got a few of those TCT pieces extra and is willing
    to send them to me for a small price

    Sazman

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    United States Of America
    Posts
    194

    Default

    A filing technique called draw filing should help and an inexpensive marble or granite window sill thrown away and some carborundum wet dry sandpaper to finish after using heavier grits.

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    5,015

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by woodhog View Post
    A filing technique called draw filing should help and an inexpensive marble or granite window sill thrown away and some carborundum wet dry sandpaper to finish after using heavier grits.

    'cept he's trying to do a proper job, not that lapping BS

    Cheers
    Michael
    memento mori

  9. #8
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Allendale East, South Aus
    Age
    33
    Posts
    240

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by mic-d View Post
    'cept he's trying to do a proper job, not that lapping BS

    Cheers
    Michael
    Oh touché. Although I must concur wholeheartedly.

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    United States Of America
    Posts
    194

    Default

    Hire a machinist / tool and die maker to use a CNC millling machine or surface grinder instead of buying a brand new $450.00 plane.

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Melbourne, Aus.
    Age
    71
    Posts
    12,746

    Default

    If it were that simple ....

    Have read folks' reporting taking their soles to automotive engine head rebuilders and getting crap back.

    Also, one argument why Stanley type soles ended up concave: the cheeks were held in a vise while the sole was milled. Another: the castings in days gone by were not left in the bone yard long enough before machining.

    Oh, and the moon was in the wrong phase ;-}

    1" square carbide tips are out there Sazman; gregoryq and others didn't knock them up in their home forge.
    Cheers, Ern

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