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Thread: Cutting gauges
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3rd April 2012, 12:36 AM #1
Cutting gauges
I had the afternoon free and only just managed to get these done as Lynndy was threatening to shoot me if I did not come in for dinner! So the photos are not the best.
These cutting gauges are modelled on a Kinshiro mortice gauge. They are a little more compact since they have single cutters.
The Curly Myrtle gauge on the right was built for practice. This has a Jarrah wear strip. The photo does not do the timber justice. The other gauge is from Tasmanian Blackwood gauge with an Ebony wear strip. Its chatoyance is amazing.
Tasmanian Blackwood is by far my favourite wood.
The beam is locked via a captive brass plate ...
The cutter is a knife shaped from a 3/16" diameter HSS rod ...
Here is the Kinshiro family, with the orginal on the right...
Regards from Perth
DerekVisit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
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3rd April 2012, 01:23 AM #2SENIOR MEMBER
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They're both beautiful pieces Derek. I particularly like the contrast between the curly myrtle and jarrah.
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3rd April 2012, 08:10 AM #3
Lovely work as usual Derek.
Those look like a very comfortable fit in the hand.
SG.... some old things are lovely
Warm still with the life of forgotten men who made them ........................D.H. Lawrence
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3rd April 2012, 08:27 AM #4
Re: Cutting gauges
Very nice indeed.
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3rd April 2012, 09:56 AM #5
Nicely done, Derek.
A couple of questions:
1. How have you 'attached' the locking screw to the brass pressure-plate so that it doesn't move with the shaft, (or fall out when the shaft was removed for the pic)?
2. I'm guessing your choice of wooden wear-strips rather than the 'traditional' (& more durable) brass was for aesthetic reasons?
And a question/comment:
Do you not find the long projection of the shaft past the cutter on your gauges to be a bit of a pest sometimes by limiting how close you can mark/cut to a shoulder? I know it's not often that one needs to do this, but it happens to me often enough that I have been thinking about ways to get the cutter or pin closer to the end, next time I make a gauge or two. Now I've seen your original Kinshiro, the answer is blindingly obvious! It never occured to me to have the shaft fixed to the fence & the cutter on the end of a moving bar like that - clever!
Cheers,IW
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3rd April 2012, 10:21 AM #6
Hi Derek,
What they said. Very nice indeed.
I do like the extra registration that the Japanese versions provide, and the shape I find easy to hold as well.
Cheers
Pops
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3rd April 2012, 11:43 AM #7Boucher de Bois
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Where do you source your locking screws from?
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3rd April 2012, 04:26 PM #8
A couple of questions:
1. How have you 'attached' the locking screw to the brass pressure-plate so that it doesn't move with the shaft, (or fall out when the shaft was removed for the pic)?
This is the mechanism I made ..
It is simply a brass plate that I drilled for a screw. The hole on the plate is chamfered, and the screw head fits fairly flush. Excess is filed off. The screw is left as a stub.
The stub fits into the hole for the adjusting screw (so it is now captive), and the adjusting screw presses down on the stub for pressure.
2. I'm guessing your choice of wooden wear-strips rather than the 'traditional' (& more durable) brass was for aesthetic reasons?
And a question/comment:
Do you not find the long projection of the shaft past the cutter on your gauges to be a bit of a pest sometimes by limiting how close you can mark/cut to a shoulder? I know it's not often that one needs to do this, but it happens to me often enough that I have been thinking about ways to get the cutter or pin closer to the end, next time I make a gauge or two. Now I've seen your original Kinshiro, the answer is blindingly obvious! It never occured to me to have the shaft fixed to the fence & the cutter on the end of a moving bar like that - clever!
I had wanted to place the cutter at the end of the beam for this very reason. The only way one can do this properly is to use a bent blade, ala Kinshiro. I was contemplating making my own (still thinking about this).
One previous effort of mine was this ..
That is still only close-to-the-end.
Regards from Perth
DerekVisit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
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3rd April 2012, 04:27 PM #9Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
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3rd April 2012, 04:52 PM #10
Indeed.
My ideal gauges include ...
Firstly, the knob needs to be on the top, where it is easy to adjust while holding the gauge in one hand (and the other left for the work piece). It also needs to be a round knob, not a thumbscrew (which may be easier to grip but is not as easy to adjust with fingertips). Look for this feature in the wooden gauges on sale.
Secondly, the hand needs to wrap around the front so that the grip is firm as you pull the gauge backwards/towards yourself. This requires that the profile of the fence is lower under the heel of the hand, and that there is a grip area for the fingers.
I think the Kinshiro rocks. It incorporates all these features.
The Kinshiro is, however, a mortice gauge. It is possible to use it with a single cutter. Fortunately, the bevel faces the correct direction.
The gauges I built are set with single cutters.
Regards from Perth
DerekVisit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
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3rd April 2012, 06:46 PM #11GOLD MEMBER
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Hey Derek,
Brilliant gauges I really like them!
Have you thought about selling any? I'd definetely be interested.
Andy
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3rd April 2012, 11:03 PM #12
Hi Andy
Thanks for the compliment. However I am not going to make them for sale. If anyone wants help to make one for themselves, I am happy to provide help.
Here is a clue ..
Regards from Perth
DerekVisit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
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4th April 2012, 08:03 AM #13
Beautiful. The blackwood and ebony strip I'd like. If you change your mind on selling I'd like to buy one.
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4th April 2012, 09:34 AM #14Senior Member
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It occurred to me that getting a right angled blade like on the original Kinshiro that sits right at the end of the arm (if that is your want) would be a situation where an old hex key would make a good blade as it already has a bend in it and is hard steel. Just have to embed it in the timber of the arm somehow and hold it rigid with a screw or epoxy.
Very nice Derek. Is there a nut or threaded insert for the brass adjusting screw embedded in the timber?
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4th April 2012, 04:55 PM #15
Hi Jake. Thanks for the compliment. Much appreciated.
And PM .. I have thought of a hex key. However they are not always hard enough or able to be heat treated. The adjuster is threaded directed into the timber, which I tapped for the purpose. In situations like this, the wood offers some resistance while in a steel insert it can work loose.
Regards from Perth
DerekVisit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
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