Thread: Dowel Plates - comparison?

Hi Groggy

I bought the LN dowel plate (in Imperial) after recognising that the cost differences were actually very small if you bought from LN (USA).

The LN costs $50 USD from the States (and $95 AUD if bought locally). The Carba-tec is $69 AUD. Add in postage from the US of about $20, and the LN total is $10-15 more. I would rather pay the extra and receive a tool of known (and reliable) steel composition. The Carba-tec is Indian or Chinese in origin. One buys something like this just once.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Thanks for the comments Derek. Buying it once is all that I want to do, as you say, hence the questions. There are no metric plates in Oz at present and I have considered the CT version but think I will just get on with other things until I can get the plate that I want. 4-6 weeks wait is a bit of a pest but I am not really on a tight schedule.

I have a piece of scrap steel that I drill holes in to suit whatever size dowel I want, which produces a satisfactory result. I would be interested to hear if people are using dowel plates and seeing any real benefit.

Regards

Basil

I am sure that a drilled plate will work. The LN plates are (1) drilled already -for those who do not have the equipment to drill 1/4" A2 plate, (2) to specific widths (not a big deal but convenient), and (3) the holes are tapered (to produce a smooth finish) - which is a little more specialised than simple drilling.

Whatever floats your boat.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Derek

I am very curious as to whether there is any real benefit in buying a ready made, over simply using a piece of scrap. The piece of steel I am using is most likely garden variety mild steel as it is very easy to drill and it now has a fair range of both metric and imperial holes in it ready and waiting. This is what I used for the 1/2" dia Brigalow head on the little adjusting hammer I made.

I don't particularly want to buy a LN version just to do a comparison. However, just to satisfy my curiosity, I will see if I have a piece of suitable tool steel I can make up a more sophisticated version from and see if there is any discernible difference, and pull out my tapered reamers and see if that makes any additional difference.

Regards

Hi Basil

If it works and yiou are happy with the result, then why change?

Regards from Perth

Derek

I guess that, theoretically, a piece of HSS or one of the blades from thumbsuckers D2 blades would suit. Probably wouldn't hurt to poke a hole in the top of the blade, hmmm


Mind you, drilling that stuff could be challenging.

Ironwood drilled one of them here:

I used a 1/8" straight flute, solid carbide drill bit. Used plenty of Rocol spray during the job, set the drill at about 700RPM, and drilled in about 2 second bursts, with a spray of Rocol in between each burst, a few minutes and I was through, I couldn't believe it went so easy.

Originally Posted by Groggy

I guess that, theoretically, a piece of HSS or one of the blades from thumbsuckers D2 blades would suit. Probably wouldn't hurt to poke a hole in the top of the blade, hmmm

Mind you, drilling that stuff could be challenging.

Thanks Helmut, it doesn't look too bad:

"I used a 1/8" straight flute, solid carbide drill bit. Used plenty of Rocol spray during the job, set the drill at about 700RPM, and drilled in about 2 second bursts, with a spray of Rocol in between each burst, a few minutes and I was through, I couldn't believe it went so easy."

Originally Posted by derekcohen

Hi Basil

If it works and yiou are happy with the result, then why change?

Regards from Perth

Derek

Derek

Whilst I am satisfied with the results, not every dowel produced is good, plus 95% of dowels that I have produced have to be accurate in the diameter & strong, but are only seen on the end grain. From my point of view I would like to know whether their is a better way or not, plus others may benefit in knowing that spending $$ for a dowel plate may, or may, not be necessary.
The store bought versions seem to be in 1/16" increments, which may make it difficult in pushing the dowel to be through without shaping close to the finished size. One benefit I find in the do it yourself version is the ability to have multiple holes drilled at various sizes, this permits the dowel to be easily reduced to size in smaller increments to the finished size.

Groggy / Helmut

I was thinking of using something that can be annealed so it can be drilled and perhaps tapered with a reamer, then hardened & tempered, for a trial. i will have a dig in my scrap bin & see what I have.

Regards

If there is a real discernible difference between a piece of mild steel that can be easily drilled and some other more exotic steel