Thread: Edge jointing with a plane - you don't need square edges or even uniform width boards

The same technique applies to the jointer - you make sure that alternate faces are against the fence so that any errors cancel themselves out.

Nice set of graphics to illustrate the technique.

However, I do think it's worth taking the time to set your jointer fence square, or practice the hand plane technique, for the times when you do want things to be square

Sometimes you don't even need to clamp up. On one book matched panel I made I just followed the old hide glue instructions, rubbed the joint (using PVA) and left the panel propped up at about 75deg on two battens against a wall.

Door panel is still OK 7 years on....

Just to add to this discussion. Here's how we butt joined the 2 thin boards that make up the back, and the sound board, of an acoustic guitar.

Firstly we approximately jointed the edges as perZen's post.
Then using an MDF base, nail a couple of blocks on the left hand side.
Position a piece of scrapiata on the middle line and place boards as shown. The piece of scrap holds the middle edge of the boards up above the MDF by about 20 mm.
Nail a couple of blocks hard up against the boards on their RHS to MDF.



add glue to mid joint and remove scrap of wood on the midline.
Push boards down and lightly clamp in place (only small clamps needed). If you want to you can also clamp a bit of hardwood across the top as well.
Oh yeah - don't forget to use a glue barrier (like waxed paper or plastic) between the boards and the MDF (and hardwood scrap), otherwise it's a # $^%#$!

I agree it works.

Personally think you should still aim for close to square at least, or else at clamp up they may be more inclined to slip over each other.

I prefer to attach a fence to the plane. There's those veritas thingos, or, what I've done is just clamp some rebated stock onto the wings of my no.7.

And I think you still have to focus when running that plane. Ultimately want a full complete thin shaving off each, with no camber on the blade.

you still should check for fits IMO, if you put a mild valley in it, that error will double at the join etc etc.

whats best though I think...just quietly.....is to face/edge on a well setup jointer to get a perfect square edge initially..... then run through the table saw to rip to width......then clean up this edge by running it through the thicknesser on its jointed edge if the width/thickness ratio of your stock isn't too large to plane to width (ie, she won't lean over on the thicknesser) ....then through again on its face to plane to thickness

And then lay all the boards down and rearrange to align grain how you like.....draw your triangle thingo......then check for edge fits....They should be pretty close already.

only then would I bring out the plane just for those few fits that need a little work (with a square fence clamped on it) and take light shavings off here or there so the edges close up nice with just a little pressure at the middle.

Then decide on how your'll joint them....tongue, or biscuits or just butt. Biscuits are probably the easiest. Mostly just something to lock the boards aligned while you clamp up.

IMO <- ie. uno. its just another way of doing it amongst lots of ways.

Planing edge joins has been only option I've ever had.

As long as you ensure both faces are in or both faces are out you get a perfect join everytime.

Originally Posted by BobL

Push boards down and lightly clamp in place ....

Nice one BobL. Never seen that idea before. You could also use wedges at your nailed blocks to apply the pressure.

Originally Posted by zenwood

Nice one BobL. Never seen that idea before. You could also use wedges at your nailed blocks to apply the pressure.

Hi Zen,

That's what I do (wedges). I find it more controllable for me as to the amount of pressure I am applying.



Works well on the thin stuff like this shop-sawn veneer, but I have also done this to glue up for door panels.

Take care, Mike

Originally Posted by zenwood

Nice one BobL. Never seen that idea before. You could also use wedges at your nailed blocks to apply the pressure.

Cheers Zen. Not my idea though. Picked it up along with a heap of others while attending an Acoustic Guitar making school in Melbourne earlier this month. Full thread showing making of guitar from whoa to go in 36 pics here.

No one seems to have mentioned using a spring joint. I'm sure most know to do this.

What is a spring joint? Trying to mate two flat sides is difficult since it is impossible to get perfect flatness. The worst situation one could wish for is trying to join two edges where there is a slight hump between them. They will rock on this, and attempts to force tem together with clamps will later fail as the internal stresses push them apart.

It is better to have a slight hollow at the centre so that the boards touch at the ends. A very slight hollow (a fine plane shaving thick) can be forced together.

So the idea is to take a fine shaving from the centre of each board when you complete the match plaing for the edges at the start. Take one shaving in the centre, another wider from 1 cm inside the near end to 1 cm inside the far end, then a final shaving through the length of the board(s). Now you are ready to glue up.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Bookmatched.

Originally Posted by derekcohen

No one seems to have mentioned using a spring joint. I'm sure most know to do this.

Yep, but it is impossible to do with 1/8" to 3/16" thick shop-sawn veneer, at least if it is wider than a couple inches like the examples above...

As for jointing thicker pieces flat for glue-ups, I go for pieces that I can stand one piece on edge, lay the mating piece on it and clamp one end tight. If the far end doesn't rise off and I cannot see light through the entire length of the join, I figure that's pretty flat. That's when I glue-up. It's not difficult to do.

On long work, a sprung joint has long been utilized, but I think it was more applicable when homes had large swings in humidity. A sprung joint, in theory, allowed the ends (which saw faster/larger moisture change) to remain together. I have seen a number of tables that toward the centers had gaps appearing. Most likely due to over-sprung joints combined with aging/failing glue joins. Still, I try to spring long open-span tops (think table tops) by taking stopped, very thin shavings. A few thou in the center, tapering out to the edges.

But I never did make very many large tables with narrow enough boards that could be sprung. Mostly credenzas, bureaus and the like where there was means to fasten in a few places mid-span. So sprung joints were few and far between.

Take care, Mike

Originally Posted by derekcohen

No one seems to have mentioned using a spring joint.

Originally Posted by Jake, just a couple posts earlier

only then would I bring out the plane just for those few fits that need a little work (with a square fence clamped on it) and take light shavings off here or there so the edges close up nice with just a little pressure at the middle.

And you wonder why I get cross at you. You don't bother to read other peoples posts properly. Happens over and over.

Hi Jake

Yeah, somehow I missed your description of a spring or sprung joint.

Regards from Perth

Derek