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Thread: Ever Wanted a Froe Away Line?
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17th June 2017, 10:20 PM #16
The following pix are just for authenticity:
The surface grinder
P1000742.jpg
The Froe blanks are coming along
P1000746.jpg
This was the press I used mainly
P1000747.jpg
But I also had access to this one as well
P1000749.jpgP1000750.jpg
I think that 150 is 150T!
Regards
PaulBushmiller;
"Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"
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17th June 2017 10:20 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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18th June 2017, 10:56 AM #17
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19th June 2017, 09:16 AM #18
Paul, surface-grinding a froe seems like overkill, but you'll certainly have a nice, flat side to place against the log side!
I'm surprised that with your propensity for re-shaping steel, you haven't built yourself a forge, yet? It's something that's been on my 'to do' list for yonks, but because I only want it on a very sporadic basis, it keeps dropping down the priority list. I was hoping to score the old hand-blower 'portable' forge from the home farm, which would've been ideal for my needs, but one of my brothers got in first on that. I've been keeping an eye out for one on the market, since they were a pretty common item in many farm sheds when I were a lad. However, the only one I've come across for sale, so far, was in pretty ordinary condition & they wanted a small fortune for it!
Cheers,IW
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19th June 2017, 09:43 AM #19
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19th June 2017, 09:54 AM #20
Ian
You are quite right in the overkill aspect. However I wanted the blade to be bright, shiny and absolutely straight. If I had been making a one-off just for myself I probably would have hit it with a flap disc to remove surface rust and then just ground the bevel. It is the same deal as fruit in the market place. The consumer demands pretty looking fruit, but the truth is that they taste no better than the more natural appearance fruit and often taste worse as they have been developed for looks in preference to flavour.
Having said all that, I did want the froes to look smart if I could.
Yes, I too would have liked a forge, but have never got around to making something. When they bring in the 36 hour day I will reconsider.
So for the moment I will make do with the combination of slow combustion heater, domestic oven and oxy set. By the way, there is one advantage of oxy for heat treating and it is that the area for heat treating can be localised if you wish. For example, there is no need to harden the back of the blade if you don't wish. However, more uniformity and better temperature control is achieved with a dedicated oven.
Regards
PaulBushmiller;
"Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"
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19th June 2017, 09:49 PM #21
Paul, Ian
Now I'm not trying to stir the pot or anything(coughs loudly)
But I did see this pic on Facebook today and we'll one bored moment led to another bored moment and my over active mind sort of made things up.
Sorry about that.
And I thought of you two,how sweet of me
No Paul not like that.
I thought is this Ian question Paul going OTT,
Was this Paul reacting considering we have all seen his Ian's beautiful saws.
Any way I'm sure hope,prey, you take this the right way.[emoji12]
Cheers Matt
No editor tonight sorry
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19th June 2017, 11:02 PM #22
Matt
Would you like a lend of my railway iron to take you off track?
)
Regards
Paul
PS . I can tell the editor has a night off.Bushmiller;
"Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"
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19th June 2017, 11:08 PM #23
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19th June 2017, 11:30 PM #24
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20th June 2017, 11:17 AM #25
I have made two froes, both have bevels on both sides. They seem to work ok.
IMG_0779.jpgI am learning, slowley.
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20th June 2017, 04:14 PM #26
The froe I made previously had two bevels. The one I bought was more exactly tapered on both sides as there is no specific bevel.
However, with these froes I am leaning towards a single bevel and it will be easier to make, although that is a secondary benefit. The fundamental problem for this becomes whether the intended user is right or left handed and whether the bevel is presented to you or from you during use. As a right hander I hold the handle in my left hand and strike the blade with the maul using my right.
Left handers . In times past being left handed was really bad: You were just plain evil. I expect you knew that but did you know that the Latin word for left handed was "sinistra?" We derive our word sinister from it
Regards
PaulBushmiller;
"Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"
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20th June 2017, 07:34 PM #27Senior Member
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?
I have also wanted a froe (too many toys- not enough time) so I jumped on the usual and found this one , but the owner says, he doesn't heat his to harden them, so I'm confused, as I would have thought it would at the least need a hardened cutting edge?
Can anyone please enlighten my overly thick scone, do we need the froe to be heat treated or hardened, BUT this one is EN45 spring steel? I'm none the wiser!
Hand forged froe WITHOUT HANDLE .Forged bevel made from 8mm (5/16") EN45 steel. | eBay
Stevo
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20th June 2017, 08:22 PM #28
It would not need to be too hard as they are normally used to split green wood. I think I hardened mine but probably not needed
I am learning, slowley.
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20th June 2017, 09:22 PM #29
I'd better sharpen my turning chisels, I can see a froe handle manufacture in my future...
BTW given my last froe handle make it was suggested that a froe handle be more like a pick handle. ie be made so the eye slips down the handle to a knob at the bottom to stop it slipping off rather than fitted from the bottom and wedgedregards
Nick
veni, vidi, tornavi
Without wood it's just ...
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20th June 2017, 10:36 PM #30GOLD MEMBER
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Just to froe another bevel option in the mix, with such a thick piece, you could make a full tapered blade.
The Ray Iles froes seem to be like this with a slight rounding on the cutting edge.
IMG_1354.jpg
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