Thread: If you could only have one plane....

Because of collectors a used plane is becoming ever less a cheap option, while I have bought an old stanley #7 at a market for $75 it cost me a few hours of work and sweat, as well as sand paper to make it remotely workable. Then you have to think about the blade which is often worn-out or to soft to work australian hardwoods. Which then brings the problem of replacement blades and chip-breakers, because those chip-breakers are always f# up. Once you add the cost of a LN $74 (for the blade alone) $39 for the chipbreaker or Veritas replacement blade and chipbreaker your cheap plane will be costing you almost 190 dollars with no guarantee that will even work perfectly, lots can still be wrong.

At this point you are now over the cost of a new HNT Gordon Aussie Jack Plane AKA equal to a Stanley #5 at $150. So the moral of my story is that a second hand plane is not necessarily the cheap option.

I have been keeping track on epay and have seen old planes go for $2500 plus. Where the modern, better and equal plane is 1/10 of the price.

If you go second hand go no name brand that collators and sellers see no value or interest in. But then you run the danger of buying a dud that was a dud when it was made new.

The best planes for minimal expenditure that will cope with Australian timber (in other words, they require high cutting angles) are Mujingfang. One could call them the Poor Woman/Man's HNT Gordon, but they do not deserve this - they are Good!

They only place I know where you can buy them (and cheaply - about $40 each) is from Lee Valley:

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...=1,41182,46334



Do not buy Stanley planes if you plan to work Jarrah - their 45 degree cutting angle is not enough. You can modify them, but what for when you can buy the Muginfangs so cheaply. They have 60 degree beds, and HSS blades. Just read the HNT Gordon website on how to use them (a LOT easier than you realise).

If I were you, I'd go for A and D.

Regards from Perth

Derek

EDIT: Just read that these ones are 45 degree beds. I know that they also come with 60 degree beds. OK, here it is, at the Japan Woodworker:

http://www.japanwoodworker.com/produ...&dept_id=13602
A bit more expensive, but a truly superb smoother.

Not going to offer advice about what one to get but when I was getting started I saw an ad in the paper Planes for Sale. When I arrived at the residence of seller I had the pleasure of meeting a retired cabinet maker/plane collector. He had the biggest collection of Stanleys of all description in his garage maybe 100+ I dunno they were everywhere and that was just the ones he called his swapping stock as the best ones on display in the house. Anyway after chatting we decided on a 41/2, jointer #7 isn't it and a block, bought the lot for what I was prepared to pay for a new 4 and he chucked in a roll of 240 grit a recon square and mitre guage. Do you think I was'nt chuffed. Still not sure of the price but they were in excellent condition and I was off to a flying start.
Moral of the story keep an eye out for plane collectors sometimes they sell down their collection.

Cheers
Mike

The plane I use most often (for a number of reasons, one of which is that I haven't finished fettling a whole bunch of others) is a Falcon 5 1/2 that I picked up at a garage sale for $5. I spent a lot of time on it fettling it and getting the original blade sharp, and there is no doubt that there are better planes out there. But not for the price. The first time I used it I was asked if I'd used 600 or 1000 grit on the piece of timber I'd just planed. And that was bluegum. I have a Falcon 4 1/2 that I reckon will be just as useful when I've finished fettling it.

So I'd go for a 5 1/2, but I'd try to pick one up at a garage sale - anything from a 4 to a 6 will be an excellent user once you fettle it, and garage sales are cheap!

Originally Posted by derekcohen

The best planes for minimal expenditure that will cope with Australian timber (in other words, they require high cutting angles) are Mujingfang

Agreed

The 60º bed Mujingfang are the hong kong style. Lee Valley sells them here - but strangely only one model is mentioned.

Carbatec stocks them as well - usually listed as rosewood/ebony no name brand like this Rosewood Miniature Hand Plane or this Rosewood Palm Smoothing Plane or this Ebony Rabbeting Plane all are Mujingfang and I am sure they can get more if you ask. All are under $40.

Seriously it is your best bet. Read Derek review of the HNT Gordon's planes to give you some insight into these well made and designed these style of planes are.

For me

I'd Go a Lie Neilson Low angle adjustable Jack Plane based on the Stanley No: 62. Found here:

http://www.lie-nielsen.com/catalog.php?grp=1247

Theres a few schools of thought on plane buying. I reckon specially for beginners that getting a high quality plane first up is the way to go.

Having 'kit' that works well straight outta the box with minimal fettling etc allows the moment to occur when you get that first spiritual experience of creating a perfect shaving.
..............................................then theres no turning back ))))))))))))))))))))

The great thing about the number 62 is its versatility which I reckon gives it the edge in the 1 plane debate!

Regardless hang in there n save for a good quality plane........................it'll be worth it!!
Believe me!

REgards Lou

This in O1 with an extra blade (A2) at 50*.


Or spend the equivalent cash in O1 tool steel of various widths and thicknesses, a gas torch, a bag of charcoal, some suitable plane making wood and a bucket of oil.

You would end up with an army of planes though, which would defeat the purpose of the whole '1 plane' thing...

(Hint, no one plane will do all you are asking. Also explains why there are so many different kinds to choose from.)

G'day Shedgirl,
I would have to agree with Schtoo and NewLou and go for a low angle jack (Stanley 62) from LN or Veritas. You can put high microbevels on the blade to get the higher angles of attack. I've got the LN version but if I was buying again would get the Veritas with a couple of spare O1 blades - I'm getting fed up with the A2 steel. What I like about this plane is that I can be taking fairly coarse shavings dimensioning stock and then back off the blade 1/3 of a turn, a turn of the knob, chock down the mouth and I'm taking fine shavings. I seem to get the finer shavings when I apply a fair bit of pressure to the front and the mouth is choked down as much as possible - hold it up with a light source behind the plane. I think this is a pretty good compromise plane - and it is easy to set up.

I bought a Stanley #4 new when I started doing a bit of woodwork. Then, after I joined this forum I realised there is more than one size and more than one make... Got a #5, then a #3 then a #6 all used and in reasonable/good shape. Some people rubbish the #6 but I like it. Not too big but very controllable and not expensive If I could only have one plane, that'd be the guy. But then, I'm mechanical man and I don't pick up a plane unless I fell like listening to the whoosh....

Of course Derek is right!

I was so caught up in my own history with the Stanley, I overlooked the fact that "I wasn't very good with it", and my workmanship improved so much when I got a better plane!

My Muji cost $10 (Pauls hardware in Sydney - thanks craigb ) and works as Derek describes!

Cheers,

P

I will agree with those who commend the Mujingfangs to you. With many planes in the arsenal now, the Muji's still represent excellent value.

I bought several from The Japan Woodworker some 2 years ago (including the high angle smoother with the wider blade which Derek linked to) and they are gems. Just great value. The service was also second-to-none.

I have also purchased some through Paul's Hardware (cheap! cheap!) and Carbatec, and yes, they are all made by the same company.

Well worth a serious look.

Cheers,
GW

I knew I could rely on you all for some good advice! Of course I wasn't expecting a unanimous answer, but you've given me some great info with which to work.
Ian, to answer your questions, at the moment i am either using the bits of my timber stash which are dressed all round, or trimming off "wafer thin" slices on the table saw, then applying elbow grease in great bucketloads along with the sandpaper. I do have a power plane, but I enjoy the hands-on thing, and like a bit more finesse and a bit less noise! And even with my pathetic excuse of a BigW plane, I already get a bit of a thrill as I watch the shavings roll off and the grain starting to sing under my hands..... so there's nothing else for it. Also - I like buying tools. I'd rather have a groovy new tool than a new pair of shoes, and it's easier to justify to The Wino (He who is never obeyed, except in his dreams).

Thanks all; any more comments greatly appreciated too!

Originally Posted by derekcohen

Do not buy Stanley planes if you plan to work Jarrah - their 45 degree cutting angle is not enough. You can modify them,

Derek, I wonder if you can elaborate ... are the options

- grind a back bevel? (on a standard iron that would give you a rather fragile edge no?)

- with the Mujingfang can you reverse the blade for a steeper bevel-up presentation?

TIA,

Ern

rsser I am no Derek, however I have some experience with the back bevel I have played with every conceivable config that you can imagine.

A back-bevel will in general give you a more durable edge as the edge has more meat supporting it.

The problem with creating a higher angle is that it becomes harder and harder to push the plane because of resistance.

I have however found that a better steel is simple better for edge retention rather then the work of a back bevel.

Originally Posted by rsser

with the Mujingfang can you reverse the blade for a steeper bevel-up presentation?

yes - you can reveres almost any bevel down blade to get a steeper bevel-up presentation. Why is 12º or even 20 º the only angles for a bevel up plane? I have done so in a stanley #7 placed the chipbreaker on the unorthodox side and honed my blade to 30º bevel to give me a fearsome 75º bevel up plane. As the chipbreaker stiffens the blade and does not break chips you can place it on the unorthodox side to stiffen the blade while still retaining lateral control. You will however have to adjust the frog back a little to convert it into a bevel up plane.