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4th July 2005, 10:09 PM #1
Preventing corrosion on new plane
Got a couple of brand new Veritas planes and would like to know what people coat their planes with to prevent corrosion. Would prefer something without silicone in it as it may produce problems with finishes on wood being worked on.
Any recommendations from the gurus in here would be much appreciated.
Cheers and thanks...MartinWhatever note you blow youre never more than a semitone away from the correct one....(Miles Davis)
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4th July 2005, 10:24 PM #2
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4th July 2005, 10:24 PM #3
Ubeaut Traditional Wax.
(Just beat me to it Midge )
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4th July 2005, 10:31 PM #4
so far I've oiled mine, but I'm testing inox and lanolin at the moment . Rust is a very big problem in the wet tropics, things will literally rust over night if not protected
If it goes against the grain, it's being rubbed the wrong way!
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4th July 2005, 11:05 PM #5Senior Member
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I don't class myself as a guru either but every bit of metal (woodwork tool) that I bring home gets an immediate spray of Lanotec, including my block plane that came from Lee Valley with the Bessey clamps.
Regards from Adelaide
Trevor
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4th July 2005, 11:36 PM #6Originally Posted by bitingmidge
Thanks..martinWhatever note you blow youre never more than a semitone away from the correct one....(Miles Davis)
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5th July 2005, 12:02 AM #7
Camellia oil.
Get it from Carba-tec (about $20 for 100 ml).
Regards from Perth
Derek
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5th July 2005, 12:34 AM #8
I don't think this a major problem in Adelaide. Mine have teeny weeny bits on them, resulting from their short stay in a US basement. Since residing in OZ, (3 years) they have no appreciable rust. Sometimes I put some WD-40 (or is it RP7?) on them. I rub a candle on the bottoms when in use (or sides when shooting).
Maybe it's a bit more humid in the Alps where you are, but still nothing compared to our Queensland brethren, I'll bet.Those are my principles, and if you don't like them . . . well, I have others.
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5th July 2005, 12:44 AM #9Originally Posted by zenwood
Humidity very much an issue in the new workshop but wont be a problem in the workshop once the dehumidifier is up and running. Untill then I might just keep my new babies in the house.Whatever note you blow youre never more than a semitone away from the correct one....(Miles Davis)
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5th July 2005, 01:28 AM #10
Keep them in the original box and shrink wrap the box
no problems
However if you live as close to the beach as I do even that won't help then you go for the wax ( daily)
. The trouble with life is there's no background music.
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5th July 2005, 07:46 AM #11
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5th July 2005, 09:09 AM #12
UBeaut Traditional wax. Protects them from rust and makes them friction free at the same time. Also doesn't leave anything on the timber to interfere with any finishes you might want to put on.
"I don't practice what I preach because I'm not the kind of person I'm preaching to."
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5th July 2005, 09:38 AM #13
My plane blades were getting spot rust, as well as some small amounts of rust on the sole.
I have recently started useing Camellia oil. It is fairly expensive but it certainly works well.
After the comments above I'm keen to give the traditional wax a go.Specializing in O positive timber stains
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5th July 2005, 10:00 AM #14After the comments above I'm keen to give the traditional wax a go."I don't practice what I preach because I'm not the kind of person I'm preaching to."
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5th July 2005, 10:13 AM #15
On surfaces other than the sole, frog top etc....ie. places that need to slide freely ....I just lightly spray some clear laquer......cheap $6 cans in most paint sections.....just a light spray......it along with wax that you apply anyway during use seems to cover your bases.....except when one of your planes is forgotten about and it rains for a month and you pick it up and theres light rust on it........god thats frustrating.......and even more frustrating when you throw the bloody thing across the room in a fit of discust........need more than clear laquer to fix it then
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