Thread: Got a record 2506.

Jake

I think that there are good instructions on the 2506 in Planecraft. I will look at my copy tonight and post the relevant info tomorrow, if I find any.

Also, have a look here.

Thanks Jeremy....That first picture when you..... 'get a closer view of the object'....doesn't seem to have it projecting as much.

I'll have another look at it tommorrow. I may have missed something.

I'm sure it'll still be a good plane. Just gota work it out.

maybe I've got it wrong. Maybe its never intended to run on its edge without the fence...I didn't think I'd have much need for the fence though for something like that.

Jake

I don't think you need the fence - it was an extra added by Record to the basic design by Preston.

Planecraft has a bit in it about using the 2506, but nothing really about tuning it. I will copy and e-mail the pages tomorrow, along with the pages from Garrett Hack's Handplane Book.

I think that Hack has the real point when he describes the correct set-up (this is for a Stanley #98, which is slightly different to the 2506, but the principles are the same):

"The iron is angles across the side, downward toward the throat. Two things must happen at the throat: the cutting edge must be parallel with the side (acting as a sole), and the lower point of the iron should peek out the bottm (the true sole) of the plane. With the iron slightly below the bottom, it acts as a nicker for cross-grain planing. The trick is to adjust everything together. Tapping the iron deeper brings the point further below the bottom, which isn't a problem, as long as it's not too far below. If the iron is above the bottom, the shoulder won't be cut its full depth. And if the iron is not parallel to the side, the shoulder will be cut at a bevel."

When you see the pictures in Planecraft of the 2506 in action, this will be much clearer.

It looks like there is an adjuster on the opposite side Jake. Maybe you can slacken the adjuster back a bit and use a shim to move the blade across a bit so it is not so far out?

Studley

don't butcher it Jake.

It's a keeper as is - they work well.

Could be something as simple as grind angle.

Cheers,

eddie

The bottom edge of the iron is honed to each tol. They all vary slightly as to how much of the iron tip protrudes.

It is honed as another bevel with its back edge slightly off of being parallel with the sole.

I can snap a picture of mine if needed--because I'm certain I probably didn't describe it well.

Take care, Mike

Edit to add the picture of a LN side rebate. It's not super clear in the picture, but in addition to the bottom "bevel" like on the Record, there is a tiny additional bevel at the tip.

I thought a 25-06 was a necked down 3006 remington.

I picked up a 2506 a while ago and have the same blade projection problem. Mine came without the depth stop and I assumed my problems trying to use it were due to not having the stop. I figure using it with a depth stop would prevent the tip digging in.

The only serious use I have attempted with it so far was trying to fix some door rebates but it was totally the wrong tool for that. A 78, shoulder plane and chisel were the solution there. Meanwhile it sits in the tool cabinet waiting for me to start a suitable cabinetry project.

I'm not entirely sure where it would be the tool of preference. I have wondered about using it for cleaning up tenon cheek/shoulders but that seems to be much easier with a sharp chisel. Widening a dado seems to be an obvious use, but then I wouldn't have the confidence of keeping the shoulder vertical without using a depth stop/fence.

I've also wondered if maybe it would be the tool of choice for fitting a sliding dovetail.

Originally Posted by Fuzzie

I picked up a 2506 a while ago and have the same blade projection problem. Mine came without the depth stop and I assumed my problems trying to use it were due to not having the stop. I figure using it with a depth stop would prevent the tip digging in.

The only serious use I have attempted with it so far was trying to fix some door rebates but it was totally the wrong tool for that. A 78, shoulder plane and chisel were the solution there. Meanwhile it sits in the tool cabinet waiting for me to start a suitable cabinetry project.

I'm not entirely sure where it would be the tool of preference. I have wondered about using it for cleaning up tenon cheek/shoulders but that seems to be much easier with a sharp chisel. Widening a dado seems to be an obvious use, but then I wouldn't have the confidence of keeping the shoulder vertical without using a depth stop/fence.

I've also wondered if maybe it would be the tool of choice for fitting a sliding dovetail.

Fuzzie, I have just put together a pdf of extracts from Hack, Planecraft, the 1937 Record catalogue and Walton with stuff on side rebate planes and the 2506 in particular. If you (or anyone else) send me a PM with your e-mail, I will send you a copy.

It should show you how they are used and what they are used for. The essential task is to widen a rebate, trench or dado (rather than narrow the piece that fits into the rebate, trench or dado), so it cuts the vertical side of the existing cut. I find mine very useful and esy to use (once the blades are really sharp).

Thankyou for all the suggestions and those pages Jeremy.

Doesn't seem any way to adjust it about like that Studley.

I won't butcher it Eddie.. but I will do what I can to make it work. As it is now it won't make a cut......if I try running it on its edge it will stop first touch of the timber like a spear in the ground. Its just protruding too far. I'm not too interested in it protruding at all. I want to make side cuts with it going with the grain.

I think the blades just peaking too far past the skate there fuzzie. Its kind of odd I think that they didn't sell it ready to go, cause I don't think its a goer as it is.

I think Mikes right in that you have to prepare the blade yourself. But I'm not entirely shore what you mean Mike......do you mean like in picture 1 ? hone it accross at an angle like that to bring the blade corners up in line with the skate ?

I was playing with the idea of cutting out some steel from the blade to bring the corner in line...picture 2......that way you only have to focus on the main bevel to re-sharpen.....Because that corner will always fall in line with the skate that way. ....and this parallel cut out is not so far up that'll it affect the seating in those strange beds.

I bought home my bosses 2506 today, to have a bit of a look. He doesn't use it. It used to be his grandfathers, and you can see the bluntening of that protruding edge to near in line with the skate, and attempts at grinding it down to be more usable. pictures 3. Which I thought supports the problem I feel I'm seeing.

Originally Posted by apricotripper

I bought home my bosses 2506 today, to have a bit of a look. He doesn't use it. It used to be his grandfathers, and you can see the bluntening of that protruding edge to near in line with the skate, and attempts at grinding it down to be more usable. pictures 3. Which I thought supports the problem I feel I'm seeing.

Interesting that all the 2506's seem to exhibit the same protruding blade issue. Seems to me they must have been designed that way, we must be missing a point about intended usage. I can't imagine that all production runs of a tool of that vintage would be so far out of intended spec.

Hi Jake,

Here's some photos of the new in the box ones that may help out.

http://www.antiquetools.com/perm-col...ng/record.html

http://dspace.dial.pipex.com/finetools/t668.jpg

Looks as though some do and some don't have the problem you've got.

The thing's a copy of an old Preston design -> it's known as a side fillister if you want to google further.

[edit: a.k.a. side rebate plane, or the US term side rabbet]

Cheers,

eddie

Just as an afterthought, Jake, is the grind angle critical to the blade position as you've got two intersecting bevels?

I think so from looking at the photos, just not sure. I'd have to look at one in the hand to check.

My take is to look at grind angles before you start to remove some of the blade.

Nothing ventured, nothing gained.

Cheers,

eddie