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Thread: A few old saws
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16th December 2015, 11:10 PM #76GOLD MEMBER
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Hi Pete, let me know how you go.
The Foley retoother can't do progressive. I know some of the S&J rips saws were progressive.
Not sure about the cross cuts.
I do have a ratchet bar that can do 9 TPI.
That ACME filer is very impressive. I didn't know there were any in Australia.
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17th December 2015, 05:59 AM #77
Hey Dave, long time bubba!
It's EIA of Sweden, here's a newer version.
$_1.JPG $_1 (1).JPG"Life would be infinitely happier if we could only be born at the age of eighty and gradually approach eighteen."
Mark Twain
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17th December 2015, 06:06 AM #78
Thanks Toby
Dave TTC
Turning Wood Into Art
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17th December 2015, 06:18 AM #79
Continental saw. Very swish. [emoji1]
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17th December 2015, 06:19 AM #80
Yes it looks better than I thought
Dave TTC
Turning Wood Into Art
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17th December 2015, 06:20 AM #81
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17th December 2015, 09:04 AM #82
Pete, 8tpi (or 9ppi) is a very common size. I reckon more than half of the old pre-WW2 Disstons I've ever seen were stamped "9"(that is, those which still had a pitch stamp visible), so your saw-sharpening place ought to be able to handle that tooth pitch, no sweat.
I've not seen a progressive-pitch crosscut, which is certainly not to say they don't exist. There are still so many things I've yet to learn in this life (& time is running out!). One of the hand-saw gurus should be able to enlighten us on the subject of progressive-pitch crosscuts, but to satisfy my curiosity I'll have a quick consult with Mr. Google, shortly, & see what he says.
In any case, I suspect you'll be quite happy with a simple, regular, 8tpi on a crosscut saw. Intuitively, progressive pitch doesn't seem like a very good idea for crosscut teeth, but since I've never tried one, I may be dead wrong. Earlier on in my saw-making career, I mucked about with varied pitch at the toe, trying to make them easier to start, but decided it simply isn't worth the effort on small saws. I do ease the rake a bit on the first 25-30mm of tenon saws with 12tpi or less, because the typical higher rake of rip teeth, combined with the larger tooth size, can be a bit catchy. It's only a few degrees, which I apply by putting a little more pressure against the leading edge of the teeth in the sharpening phase, so you'd be hard put to see it unless you have particularly acute vision. Easing the rake helps, but a sharp saw will always catch a bit on harder woods. Anyone who's used saws more than once or twice has usually figured out how to start with a light touch and a low approach angle, so they don't really need much in the way of extra 'help', imo.
Cheers,IW
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17th December 2015, 09:36 AM #83
Agree completely with Ian on the crosscuts and absence of progressive pitch: It just isn't needed.
Ian made reference in another post that you need a certain number of teeth in contact with the timber at any one time, but when the cut is started this is difficult to achieve at a conventional sawing angle. This is more and more noticeable as the size of the teeth increase. Probably 7ppi to 8ppi is the cut off point.
There are at least three ways to assist starting the cut.
One of them is the progressive pitch, but that in itself is not enough.
The second is to draw the saw backwards across the timber several times before sawing forward.
The third is to drop the angle of the saw down so more teeth are in contact with the timber.
Actually the second point has reminded me of a fourth point and that is relaxing the rake on the teeth for teeth at the toe. That can easily be achieved during the filing even if the re-toothing was done on a Foley type machine.
Regards
PaulBushmiller;
"Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"
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17th December 2015, 09:38 AM #84
Dave
Have you started the resto yet?
Regards
PaulBushmiller;
"Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"
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17th December 2015, 09:46 AM #85GOLD MEMBER
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Pete, the Foley retoothers, filers and setters are often found as a set as they use the same saw carrier.
It will be interesting to see the order that the saw doctor uses the equipment on your saw.
If he used all Foley equipment, you can leave the saw plate in the carrier to retooth, file then set the saw.
If using the Acme filer, in that order then you'd have to take the saw out of the carrier for the Acme filer then put the saw back in the carrier in the right place for the setting.
The setter has a bit of a reputation in some quarters for over setting back saws.
Here's a method used by Bad Axe saws using similar equipment. This is from a few years ago and I believe he now hammer sets his saw rather than using a saw set.
Bad Axe Tool Works - Chris Schwarz's Groves Saw Restoration
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17th December 2015, 10:10 AM #86
G'day Paul,
Doing some work at my SIL'S in Sydney atm. Was working in Melbourne last week. May not get to it till my gtg but with a bit of luck could be at it just before new years. Won't be back at the house before Christmas, I know that much
Dave TTC
Turning Wood Into Art
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17th December 2015, 07:08 PM #87
I try to video the whole re-toothing, sharpening & setting process.
Pete.
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17th December 2015, 07:10 PM #88
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17th December 2015, 07:19 PM #89
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17th December 2015, 08:22 PM #90
Good to see you two lads are making positive progress. I can see you will have it finished in no time .
Regards
PaulBushmiller;
"Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"
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