Thread: A few old saws

Thanks Paul, those photos are fine. I'll have a play with it tomorrow arvo and see if either of them will work. If we have to trim the saw plate, then that's what we'll do. It doesn't need a large grip hole, Dave's just a little guy

If I use the Seaton Handle as a guide but take a bit off the top to push the grip hole up so that the base of the handle is clear of the tooth line, would that effect the performance or feel too much?

Originally Posted by Pittwater Pete

Thanks Paul, those photos are fine. I'll have a play with it tomorrow arvo and see if either of them will work. If we have to trim the saw plate, then that's what we'll do. It doesn't need a large grip hole, Dave's just a little guy

But my hands are almost as big as yours


Dave

The Turning Cowboy

Pete

Dave is a carpenter. His hands will have developed. Did you ever read Sherlock Holmes. "has thick right wrist and smells of fish." = Ships carpenter. Not that I am suggesting Dave smells in any way untoward .

Your proposed modification of the handle sounds fine in principle: The angle of the handle in relation to the saw plate is more important to my mind.

Regards
Paul

As it is only a shallow blade, you might be better off going for a variation on a mitre box saw handle.
The handle will sit at a better height to the cutting edge. I'd just trim the blade to fit.
image.jpegimage.jpeg

Originally Posted by Pittwater Pete

I'm still not sure if the teeth will be low enough to clear the handle.

Pete, maybe you can just adjust the cheeks so they sit a bit lower relative to the grip? As long as you preserve the same angle of grip to tooth line, plus or minus a degree or two, all should be well. I'd be trying to re-draw the cheeks into a pleasing shape that comfortably incorporates the existing bolt holes. I can see you might have difficulties getting a shape that looks neat & fits with the slanted end of the saw, but it's worth a bit of doodling to see.

I wouldn't be fussing about creating very much 'clearance' unless the saw will regularly need to saw to a fixed point over some obstruction. These are used differently from backsaws. In most cases, the blade is fully enclosed by the wood being sawn, and the stroke is limited by the front of the handle, not the butt, so it doesn't matter if the handle projects below the tooth line for 99.9% of applications. By the same token, you don't want it too low or you tend to push the teeth away from the wood on the forward stroke..

When starting from scratch like this, I'd be making a mock-up out of a piece of scrap, and trying a few different handle placements, to see what looks & feels right....

Cheers,

I haven't started the handle yet but I have cleaned up Dave's Dad's saw plate a bit.

Pete.

Looks a vast improvement

Dave TTC
Turning Wood Into Art

It was in reasonable condition.
I've been thinking about the handle a bit and have decided to stick to my original plan of making an identical handle as the original but from Black Walnut. I feel that, to turn the saw into something that it isn't, is moving away from the idea of restoring Dave's Dad's saw. It would become something else entirely and loose any memories and/or sentiment that it has for Dave.
Also, to change the handle design would probably mean cutting it at the handle end making it shorter than it already is.


Pete.

Gentlemen, may I remind you that this is not Facebook or Twitter and therefore double-entendre posts are neither appreciated nor appropriate on this forum.

Three posts have been deleted, let's not turn this forum in to a "drivel" forum.

Thanks Pete. I look forward to seeing how it comes up.

This one that both you and Simplicity worked on at the GTG is possibly the shortest backless saw I have used of its kind. Went to use it for some scribes but needs a couple of saw nuts for the handle. Is a little lose atm...



A baby up against the diston from Paul



Still working on a mod to my box so it will fit

Dave TTC
Turning Wood Into Art

Did you ask Paul if he could ID that other saw?

Dave TTC
Turning Wood Into Art

I put it to him on the gtg thread but I think he may have missed it.

Originally Posted by Pittwater Pete

I put it to him on the gtg thread but I think he may have missed it.

Pete

Sorry about that. Yes, I did miss it. No, I can't help with identification. Unless something is very obvious, there are two main indicators: Namely the medallion and/or and etch. Without either of these it really is anybody's guess.

Regards
paul