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Thread: European table saw fences
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20th September 2009, 10:02 AM #16
Hi nici, great advice and interesting as always. One point though regarding the use of a long fence for ripping. Would it be safer to have the part of the fence that is past the saw blade, opened up just a mm or so to prevent the stock binding on the fence and the blade, since the cut is already made at the point of blade cutting the timber, this would give the timber the slight bit of space it might need for movement. Correct me if I am wrong.
Reality is no background music.
Cheers John
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20th September 2009, 09:02 PM #17Deceased
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Thank you John
I heard (read) that many people are "toeing out" the rear part of the fence but 1mm looks to me too much.
I was reading one book long time ago (Woodworking for the serious beginner) and - quote...
"It should be parallel to the blade"...
"If the back of the fence toes out, the rear part of the fence is farther away from the blade than the front part of the fence. therefore, a board being ripped is against the fence when the cut is started but not against the fence as the board clears the blade. At this point, the fence no longer supports the board, making the board difficult to control - and if you loose control of the board, you risk serious injury"......"the cut may wander".
Jim Tolpin is saying (link below) "Safe and accurate ripping requires that the rip fence be parallel to the blade....."
http://books.google.com/books?id=BYW...age&q=&f=false
When I'm aligning my blade to the miter slot, I set it a "hair" toeing out at the back side...I do it just by listening to the noise when cross-cutting a test piece - if I hear a "scratching" noise when the test piece reaches the back teeth, I'm ok...
Then, I align the rip fence to the miter slot and run again a test piece against the rip fence and listen again to the noise when the test piece passes the back teeth, again, if it's scratching noise, I'm ok...
You can see my method step-by-step on this post
https://www.woodworkforums.com/f44/table-alignment-short-fence-76604
Regards
niki
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21st September 2009, 04:13 AM #18Skwair2rownd
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G'day Niki. Another wonderfully detailed post with plenty of supporting evidence.
I've often wondered why I get binding on the fence at times, no matter how careful the set up. I am also no a fan of the riving knife on my Jet. That is the only grouch I have about the saw and I am at a loss as to how to have a better set-up.
How is your health? I hope you are right on top of things.
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21st September 2009, 06:22 PM #19Deceased
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Thank you mate
I don't know the Jet riving knife but maybe this post can help you
http://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/v...ic.php?t=32772
As for my health...
As my father use to tell me "If you'll take out all the bad - I feel quite good"
Best regards
niki
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28th September 2009, 10:45 AM #20Skwair2rownd
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Thanks for the link Niki.
The jet setup is totally different to that on tour saw, or the one in the link. I am not at home to photograph it but It is a flimsy arrangement mounted off the back of the table. The set-up makes it very difficult to align the knife and the knife itself iseasily bent. The metal is quit soft.
I think when I get back home I will look at trying to set up a knife mad from an old saw blade.
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