Thread: Feeling a bit down....

Well, yeah, but your point was to do with the board having a bevel on both edges, with the first one maybe slipping under the fence with the right tilt blade. We all know (now ) that you don't cut bevels with the fence on the right with a right tilt saw anyway, so it's not a problem. But if you want to expand your point to the greater bevel ripping capacity on the left tilt saw, then by all means

However, I would point out that if you owned a right tilt saw and wanted to cut bevels on 700mm wide boards for some strange reason, you could extend your fence rails to the left just as easily as you can to the right and you would have the extra capacity you need with the added benefit of not needing to adjust your fence when you put a different kerf-width blade on the saw

Sure sir. Extending the fence rails to the left is easy. We know that.

No harder than to the right. Correct. But silly.

So what are you making now that has these two bevelled edges, Mr Wong? A big box with mitred edges?

So what are you making now that has these two bevelled edges, Mr Wong? A big box with mitred edges?

I am actually. Just a couple of bedside cabinets out of solid red cedar. Do you like it?

What are you making now?

Those are cross cuts, you should be doing them with a cross cut sled or something, not the fence, you naughty boy.

I'm making a 4.8m square paved area with a clothes line in the middle. My table saw is lonely.

Something else to consider Stuart, I have an American mag at home that has a table saw with a granite top. Won't rust, is nice and slippery and isn't effected by moisture or temperature. They claim no more prone to chips than cast iron and guarantee the granite for ten years.

Originally Posted by NCArcher

Something else to consider Stuart, I have an American mag at home that has a table saw with a granite top. Won't rust, is nice and slippery and isn't effected by moisture or temperature. They claim no more prone to chips than cast iron and guarantee the granite for ten years.

............and perfect for rolling out pastry too!

Heard about those granite tops too - but is their TS any good for the price?

Steel city?

Originally Posted by Stuart

True, but if I'm going to pay 3 to 4 times the price of a Triton workbench (yes I know I'm not taking the CS into account here, but I'm keeping that!), then I'm expecting more than 3 -4 peanuts!

This is the beauty of the TSC10HB and why so many people buy it. Its only 2 peanuts more (double the price ) than a functioning Triton WC ($499 table and $300ish for the saw).

It has a great biseymer fence, great power, quiet etc etc. The only drawback is the stooopid rubbish mitre guage but then again I have never used mine but use a sled or scms.

I look at it as the next step from the Triton, then as with most things, diminishing returns for investment.

I really do agree with you re the old Triton innovation people. I would have loved to have seen a new generation Workcentre with an induction motor

Originally Posted by Honorary Bloke

Delta Unisaw
Model 36-L51X-BC50


$2,299.00 US

http://www.cpowoodworking.com/table_...l51x-bc50.html

A lot of people like Delta but (and I do have a couple of Delta tools) there are better deals out there if color isn't an important item for you. Here's an example: http://www.grizzly.com/catalog/2008/Main/21

Paul

Stuart dont leave getting a c.i. tablesaw too long, the top makers are starting to leave out putting a mitre slot on the table, honest.

Are they nuts?

Originally Posted by Pheonix

Steel city?

Yes a Steel City saw.
3HP, 50" rails, US$1375
Looks ok to me (from the write up in the mag - American Woodworker #133)
And it has two mitre slots.