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11th May 2012, 01:30 AM #16well aged but not old
- Join Date
- Sep 2004
- Location
- Brisbane
- Posts
- 925
I have been through this process. I got a cabinet maker who has a the right type of saw for cutting melamine to cut out all the shelving and framework. Then I made all the rest in silky oak-the doors, kick boards and all the visible facings which screw to the carcass. In the end we got a really nice kitchen for a tiny fraction of the price and I did not have to stuff about with large sheets of melamine.
My age is still less than my number of posts
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11th May 2012 01:30 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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- Always
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- Advertising world
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11th May 2012, 09:02 AM #17
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17th May 2012, 07:43 PM #18
For what its worth ive been making kitchens for 15yrs now using a circular saw bolted under an 8x4 sheet of white board. steel frame with square tube front and back that fitted a homemade fence.
no scribe blade, but no chips.
i would cut everything 2mm oversized and then take 2mm off on the jointer.
you have to allow for 2mm each side because the chips can be quite large.
ive never ever had a problem doing it this way.
just my 2 cents
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22nd May 2012, 10:10 PM #19Senior Member
- Join Date
- Dec 2004
- Location
- Perth
- Posts
- 324
I've done a fair bit of melamine work with a triton and sliding table and agree about the chipping. The trouble with the little chips and the iron on edge banding is that they serve as an entry point for any moisture. Look great for the first couple of years then start to come apart.
Had significantly better results using a really good blade (designed for melamine) and buzzing 0.4mm off the edge with a planer before edge banding. Those ones didn't come apart anywhere near as easy.
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