Thread: Help sought in sizing a thicknesser

Originally Posted by Johncs

A thicknesser is next on my shopping list, followed very closely by dust collection.
snip

You've probably heard it before ...

but change the order, get the dust collection first or at the very same time

that way your thicknesser will work a whole lot better and the workshop will be whole lot cleaner


ian

Hi Johncs,

I don't want to be a Jonah but you can't do any worthwhile joinery straight off a thicknesser. It's essential that the timber be put over a jointer (buzzer) first to get the wide surface flat and planar and one edge straight and square to the wide face. This is followed by sawing the rough edge straight and then by thicknessing the other wide face. Then you can straighten and square the remaining edge.

Most people can't go past a 200mm wide buzzer unless they have 3 phase power so that really limits the width of thicknesser you actually need.If you do your joinery correctly you won't need to re-thickness any joined panels. One pass with a sharp scraper to remove the glue squeeze out should suffice. After that take your panel to a joinery shop that has a 900 mm or wider sander for a quick sand up. It traditionally costs a carton of stubbies ( no GST) to get a table top done over here to 120 grit finish if you have done the joinery well in the first place. That's what I do and have done for years. I can't warrant owning a $10k sander ( second hand price) for about one to two hours a month work.

I don't fancy any of those lightweight bench top machines but I guess they may be OK for light duty work.

Please don't use either thicknesser or buzzer without dust extraction. That would be untenable health wise and also constitutes a substantial fire and dust explosion risk if in confined premises. Good luck.

Old Pete

I was watching this Jet thicknesser and dust collector on ebay. It didn't sell @ $700. I think that's a very good price. If you're interested try contacting the seller - he may still have it.

Kev

Sorry John, just noticed where you live - might cost a bit to transport

Originally Posted by ian

You've probably heard it before ...

but change the order, get the dust collection first or at the very same time

that way your thicknesser will work a whole lot better and the workshop will be whole lot cleaner


ian

https://www.woodworkforums.com/f154/help-sought-dust-collection-94053-post939251

The documentation I've seen for thicknessers threaten poor results and/or damage to the equipment. Having seen what a router can produce, I hate to think what a mess a thicknesser might make.

Originally Posted by *Kev

Sorry John, just noticed where you live - might cost a bit to transport

It's a good bargaining chip. I think the j1p15 HO might have been cheaper, it has an open stand. Can anyone confirm?

Even allowing for freight, the one on ebay is worth considering.

The dusty's no good, I don't have 3Ph.

Originally Posted by old pete

Hi Johncs,

I don't want to be a Jonah but you can't do any worthwhile joinery straight off a thicknesser. It's essential that the timber be put over a jointer (buzzer) first to get the wide surface flat and planar and one edge straight and square to the wide face. This is followed by sawing the rough edge straight and then by thicknessing the other wide face. Then you can straighten and square the remaining edge.

G'day Johah

In the short term, most of the timber going through the thicknesser would be resawn from somethingx50mm. Am I naive to expect a flat (even if a little rough) surface?

As I understand it, jointing can be done in a thicknesser. A jig can be used to hold wood on edge. If it's cupped or bowed, a sled can be used to support the wood. See Australian Woodsmith #68 p 59.

Apart from that, I have a router and I could try my plane out.

But yes, a jointer and a drill are on the shopping list.

Originally Posted by Johncs

G'day Johah

But yes, a jointer and a drill are on the shopping list.

There's a much-mentioned ML-392 advertised in the latest Qokkas (described as 12" but never mind) and I was going to inspect it. Having read the four/five year thread describing its numerous problems, failings and remedies, I wasn't too sure.

However, I had about enough dollars for the ML392, and was considering the Carbatec equivalent, new, in the expectation/home the problems might have been resolved.

However, when I want to inspect the wares, I discovered some toys on sale.

There was the ctj-680 marked down to 1199, and a RDP-116 drill that had a few dollars off.

I returned home to consider things, and Moneybags agreed to a finance deal, so today it was back to Balcatta in this blustery, wet (at least over Balcatta way) weather with a shopping list that didn't fit onto the order form.

The kindly chap at the store, when I started telling him what I wanted, asked how I planned to carry it. "Now worries," I said. The two-seater can handle it.

I manage to order a couple of items not in stock, and tried to order something they'd not hard of - a drum sander accessory with a guide bearing. They didn't have the circle cutter either, but overall I have a nice selection of new toys.

There is a problem.

Loading the stuff was easy, the bloke at the shop has a forklift.

Driving home was easy, the two-seater handled a little more comforably with a bit of stuff in the back.

Unloading most of the stuff was fairly easy, it was just push it onto rhe ramp, push it down the ramp onto the dolly, wheel it into the shed and tip/push it off.

One carton remains, it weighs about 180 Kg and I can just barely move it. I don't know in detail what's in it, I suspect most of the thicknesser. Most meaning "motor" and "cabinet."

It was getting late, so it's sitting outside with a tarp tucked around it. For the moment, I plan to open it tomorrow (unless someone can tell me) and then consider the situation.