Thread: Jointer setup

The outfeed should be level with the top of the blades and the infeed is user adjustable below this for the type of wood and depth of cut required etc. I start off with the tables coplanar and drop the infeed incrementally to get a feel and listen to the sound of the motor to make sure it's not laboring too much. I adjust it almost every time I use it.

Andy,
Check out the thread from 15th July in this section.
It has a lot of good information as well as a very informative video.
https://www.woodworkforums.com/f154/h...ointer-136812/

Regards, Keith.

I'd start at the beginning again. You need a pretty good long straight edge and set the jointer cut to zero. The two tables should be coplanar in this state and you can place your straight edge and check this. Make adjustments in the tables as necessary to bring them coplanar. Leave the jointer set to zero cut to adjust the knives. They should be slightly above the out-feed table, not level with it. To set them use a short straight timber batten bridging from in-feed to out-feed tables. The knives are correctly adjusted when they just catch the batten and drag it backwards by 2-4mm (try and get a consistent drag left and right side of the table and between all two-three knives). You will find if you set the knives too close to the out-feed height, a small amount of wear on the knives will quickly have you repeating the procedure. The way you describe the problem it sounds just like the blades are a bit too low.

Cheers
Michael

Originally Posted by mic-d

The way you describe the problem it sounds just like the blades are a bit too low.

Cheers
Michael

That's exactly the problem!
I have to get out the manual and fix the problem.

As with any jointer, blades should be set up level relative to the outfeed table.

If you want a better manual than the Carbatec one, google "Grizzly g0490 manual" and save the pdf. Should be the same machine.

Originally Posted by Mr Brush

As with any jointer, blades should be set up level relative to the outfeed table.

If you want a better manual than the Carbatec one, google "Grizzly g0490 manual" and save the pdf. Should be the same machine.

No they shouldn't be level, they need to be a couple of thou" above the out-feed table. As I said, if you set them level, you'll find in a very short time the jointer will not work properly due to the wear on the knives. And it only takes fractional wear to be below the out-feed table.

Cheers
Michael

I set mine level (to within a couple of thou on the dial gauge) when I set the blades, then check periodically as the blades wear..

The out feed table on my jointer is easily adjusted by a handle, so this isn't a huge ask.

I'm having the most frustrating time at the moment with my jointer. I had to leave the workshop today because I was getting that angry with the thing!

So I set my infeed table to zero. I got my quality veritas straightedge and placed it along the outfeed table and set it by eye so the knifes were slightly higher than the outfeed. I then got a scrap piece of wood (flat) and adjusted the outfeed so I got even movement with the scrap piece when rotating the cutters.

I then went to edge joint a piece of timber that was around 700mm long, and the thing just isn't straight!!

Does anyone in North/West Sydney have a Carbatec jointer (or similar) set up correctly and can give me some guidance, or perhaps kindly come around and see what i'm doing wrong? I'm happy to pay you for your time, or I got plenty of timber you can choose from. I just really need this fixed - i'm desperate!


Thankyou

Andy

Hi Andy,

Can you describe the result you're getting, perhaps with some exagerated drawings? Does the jointed edge have a concave or convex shape, for example. Along the 700mm length, how far from flat are you able to measure/see?

ajw

Originally Posted by groeneaj

So I set my infeed table to zero. I got my quality veritas straightedge and placed it along the outfeed table and set it by eye so the knifes were slightly higher than the outfeed. I then got a scrap piece of wood (flat) and adjusted the outfeed so I got even movement with the scrap piece when rotating the cutters.


Andy

Hi Andy,
My jointer out-feed table is unlike yours. It is adjustable on four threaded posts for the initial set up, but it is not adjusted as part of the knife setting procedure. It sounds like yours has the ability to easily be moved by an external lever or something? I wouldn't use it. Just set the jointer to zero and then use your straight edge to make sure that both tables are coplanar and don't touch the out-feed again. Then adjust the cutters as per my post above. If you adjust the jointer to zero when the tables are supposed to be coplanar, then adjust the out-feed table to set the knives, the jointer for one won't be calibrated correctly and two, you've got no idea whether they are still parallel(which they need to be). My guess is that your outfeed adjustment doesn't move the table parallel to the in-feed table and is higher near the blade than at the end. This would lead to a concave cut (but so would knives set too high).
Cheers
Michael

Do you have a Wixy digital gauge? If so set it to zero and place it in the middle of the out-feed table (parallel with the fence) and then in the middle of the in-feed table. Compare the readings. I bet thy are different. If so, you will need to shim them with brass strips from a hobby shop to get them level.

Next swing the Wixy around and put it on your cutter block and set it to zero. Then place it on the in-feed table, then the out -feed table and compare. Again you will probably need to shim to get them level.

When that’s all correct follow Mics advice and set the out-feed a few thou above TDC of the knife arc. This can be done without a dial gage by placing a meter steel rule on the out-feed table hanging a few inches over the cutter block, then rotating the cutter head by hand the rule should move back or forward (depending on which way you rotate) about 1-2mm. If all that doesn’t work, sell it and get another one.

I set the outfeed and infeed (on zero) and the knives are low. Because I have no jig to raise the knifes, I've set the outfeed so the knifes are slightly higher, but the infeed won't be level with the outfeed when set at zero. I havnt tested this yet but will it be an issue besides not being able to use the depth of cut scale?

Originally Posted by groeneaj

I set the outfeed and infeed (on zero) and the knifes are low. Because I have no jig to raise the knifes, I've set the outfeed so the knifes are slightly higher, but the infeed won't be level with the outfeed when set at zero. I havnt tested this yet but will it be an issue besides not being able to use the depth of cut scale?

You don’t need a jig to set your knives. Grab a pair of old speaker magnets and place them on the out-feed table overhanging the cutter block. Then (with a slip of paper in-between) your blades will be drawn up perfectly inline with the out-feed table.

Ok, then once there in line with the outfeed, lower the outfeed table slightly? But then the outfeed and infeed wont be coplaner?

Is there a way (a jig maybe) to set the knives slightly above the outfeed?

Where can I get some old speaker magnets at this time of the year?


How I have it setup at the moment would that work? I'll find out tomorrow I guess..